Sharpening my Spydercos. A simple question...

[jmj3esq]

When sharpening my Spydercos (on my KME) I usually take my edges all the way to 1500 grit and then strop and sometimes use lapping films to achieve a mirror edge. I have noticed that a mirror edge cuts much differently than a courser edge and almost slides across material as opposed to digging into what you're cutting. I prefer grabby edge but love the looks of the mirror edge. My question is, lets say I sharpen to 600 grit and stop there. This will have a nice course edge, but if I continue to strop this edge will it lose the grittiness of the coarseness? Because in essence aren't you just smoothing out sharpening lines on the edge when stropping thus doing away with the course edge? I understand stropping can bring a dulling edge back a bit, but is it even needed after a 600 grit sharpening or will it defeat my purpose?

[Wartstein]

Not a direct answer to your question, but this thread might help or at least be of interest for you:

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=85096

[Giygas]

Sharpen to a polished edge, then apply a coarse microbevel?

I've been doing that for years with my K2 (~10dps main bevel, ~15dps micro). I've tested a ton of different kinds of edges on it, and that's the one that both cuts and looks best (subjective, of course) and lasts longest.

[Notsurewhy]

Sharpen to a polished edge, then apply a coarse microbevel?

I've been doing that for years with my K2 (~10dps main bevel, ~15dps micro). I've tested a ton of different kinds of edges on it, and that's the one that both cuts and looks best (subjective, of course) and lasts longest.

Exactly what I was going to suggest.

[vivi]

When sharpening my Spydercos (on my KME) I usually take my edges all the way to 1500 grit and then strop and sometimes use lapping films to achieve a mirror edge. I have noticed that a mirror edge cuts much differently than a courser edge and almost slides across material as opposed to digging into what you're cutting. I prefer grabby edge but love the looks of the mirror edge. My question is, lets say I sharpen to 600 grit and stop there. This will have a nice course edge, but if I continue to strop this edge will it lose the grittiness of the coarseness? Because in essence aren't you just smoothing out sharpening lines on the edge when stropping thus doing away with the course edge? I understand stropping can bring a dulling edge back a bit, but is it even needed after a 600 grit sharpening or will it defeat my purpose?

stropping polishes the apex and gradually removes microserrations.

if you prefer a toothy edge you should not strop.

https://old.reddit.com/r/sharpening/com ... grit_edge/

https://old.reddit.com/r/sharpening/com ... _120_grit/

600 grit is refined enough to send arm hairs flying if a light touch and steady hand is used.

Aesthetics aside it would be a waste of time, but you could apply a mirror edge then microbevel with a coarser finish. Say, 12dps up to 5,000 grit, then sharpen at 15dps on 600 grit.

[Wandering_About]

Stropping will certainly eventually polish the apex. It can be used sparingly to refresh an edge a small number of times, but eventually you'll need to take the edge back to a stone to restore its toothiness.

As has been mentioned, you can certainly think outside the box and do a polished bevel and a coarse microbevel... the options are endless when it comes to putting an edge on a knife, if you're able to confidently get a knife sharp there's no harm in experimenting and finding what works for you.

[sal]

Hi Jmj,

You have reached the threshold of edge type. When Gail and I were testing edges in the development of our Sharpmaker, we learned that a coarse edge cut more aggressively, bit a polished edge stayed sharp longer. Our solution was a polished serrated edge. Buy one of our K04 serrated kitchen knives with the blue handle and put it into your kitchen for a month. If you don't find it to be the most used knife in your kitchen, I'll buy it back from you.

sal

[JoviAl]

I find a dual grit edge good for this sort of conundrum - you can do the show side to tickle your super shiny mirror edge proclivities, and the back side which you don’t look at very often is kept very coarse. Often discussed in relation to maximising Magnacut performance, but works well on most steels I’ve tried it on (Elmax, VG10, Cruwear, K390, LC200N, H1&H2, 15V) and on serrations (just be extra extra extra gentle on the coarse stone side otherwise you’ll have a pseudo plain edge in fairly short order ).

[RustyIron]

If you don't find it to be the most used knife in your kitchen, I'll buy it back from you.

Those sound like the words of a man who has full confidence in his product.

[jmj3esq]

Hi Jmj,

You have reached the threshold of edge type. When Gail and I were testing edges in the development of our Sharpmaker, we learned that a coarse edge cut more aggressively, bit a polished edge stayed sharp longer. Our solution was a polished serrated edge. Buy one of our K04 serrated kitchen knives with the blue handle and put it into your kitchen for a month. If you don't find it to be the most used knife in your kitchen, I'll buy it back from you.

sal

I'll take you up on that offer, Sal. I usually use my Spydie Chef in the kitchen, but am always looking for a dedicated knife in that area that I don't have to di much with. Ive been looking at a Counter Critter or Counter puppy as an option. Will these suffice for what you are recommending?

Thanks for the info, Boss!

[jmj3esq]

I find a dual grit edge good for this sort of conundrum - you can do the show side to tickle your super shiny mirror edge proclivities, and the back side which you don’t look at very often is kept very coarse. Often discussed in relation to maximising Magnacut performance, but works well on most steels I’ve tried it on (Elmax, VG10, Cruwear, K390, LC200N, H1&H2, 15V) and on serrations (just be extra extra extra gentle on the coarse stone side otherwise you’ll have a pseudo plain edge in fairly short order ).

I have certainly thought about doing this after I first heard of it, but with my scatter brain, there is probably no way I could successfully sharpen like this. I can just see it, I'd forget what side is which and screw it up somehow. Sounds overly difficult.

[sal]

Hi Jmj,

K04SBL only.

sal

[JoviAl]

I find a dual grit edge good for this sort of conundrum - you can do the show side to tickle your super shiny mirror edge proclivities, and the back side which you don’t look at very often is kept very coarse. Often discussed in relation to maximising Magnacut performance, but works well on most steels I’ve tried it on (Elmax, VG10, Cruwear, K390, LC200N, H1&H2, 15V) and on serrations (just be extra extra extra gentle on the coarse stone side otherwise you’ll have a pseudo plain edge in fairly short order ).

I have certainly thought about doing this after I first heard of it, but with my scatter brain, there is probably no way I could successfully sharpen like this. I can just see it, I'd forget what side is which and screw it up somehow. Sounds overly difficult.

It’s pretty easy to be honest, you just have to decide which side is which before you start. You can always write on the blade in sharpie (or your own preferred brand of permanent marker ). I basically treat one side as if I’m traditionally sharpening for a mirror edge end result, and the other side I stick to either the CBN rod on my sharpmaker, or a ~150 grit dia plate on my KME, then a very gentle stropping to finish. The edge lasts ages and has good aggression in my uses.

Re Sal’s knife recommendation - did anyone else go and have a look for one online and seriously consider buying one (or was that just me)? That is some solid confidence in your product Sal

[Scandi Grind]

Re Sal’s knife recommendation - did anyone else go and have a look for one online and seriously consider buying one (or was that just me)? That is some solid confidence in your product Sal

Well I did just take a look at it because you mentioned it , but I don't think I could do a serrated knife in the kitchen. I have little doubt in the performance, but I have not liked what serrated knives tend to do to my cutting boards. Not sure if this knife would be any different, but I can't easily sand out the gouges serrations usually put in my boards.

[sal]

"Use less pressure"

-- Old Spyderco proverb.

sal

[electro-static]

Hi Jmj,

You have reached the threshold of edge type. When Gail and I were testing edges in the development of our Sharpmaker, we learned that a coarse edge cut more aggressively, bit a polished edge stayed sharp longer. Our solution was a polished serrated edge. Buy one of our K04 serrated kitchen knives with the blue handle and put it into your kitchen for a month. If you don't find it to be the most used knife in your kitchen, I'll buy it back from you.

sal

I feel it would be cool for one to be sent to Gabe of “The Home Slice” youtube channel, he’s always experimenting with different types of edges. His results for H2 serrated vs even the craziest of edged and steels were nuts.

[Notsurewhy]

Hi Jmj,

K04SBL only.

sal

Is the edge on the blue handled K04SBL different than the K04SBK black handled with serrated edge? If so, how? I might be tempted to buy one of each to compare.

[RustyIron]

I have not liked what serrated knives tend to do to my cutting boards. Not sure if this knife would be any different, but I can't easily sand out the gouges serrations usually put in my boards.

Our primary cutting board is old... perhaps 30 years or more. It was nothing special when we got it, but it works fine. A few years back it was dished, so I ran it through the planer to flatten it out. It's getting to the point where it needs to be planed again. It might be time to replace it, but with some kind of exotic wood.

[jmj3esq]

Hi Jmj,

K04SBL only.

sal

Sal, I was lucky enough to find one on sale for $49.99 at DLT Trading. I quickly snatched that deal. Can't wait to try it out in the kitchen or maybe anywhere!

[Scandi Grind]

"Use less pressure"

-- Old Spyderco proverb.

sal

OK, I hear ya. I'm a kinda tempted to try something serrated out. I wish there was still Z-cuts with this serration pattern. I guess there is always the K05SBK paring knife if I wanted to try that.

The thing that bothers me about a 6" utility knife is that it doesn't have any finger clearance. I don't think a utility knife could ever be my most used knife in the kitchen for that reason. Ever consider making a serrated chef knife that has better board clearance?