Looking For Tips to Darken Micarta with Oil only

[BLADE_OCD]

Hello everyone,

I just purchased my first Spyderco. It's a PARA MILITARY 2 CPM CRU-WEAR MICARTA. While I'm waiting for it to be delivered to my house, I have been doing a lot of research on darkening the handles. I want to darken the scales as fast as possible without taking it apart and disassembling the knife. I was hoping someone here on this forum would be willing to share their experience with darkening the handles. I'm looking for the darkest deep brown possible without modifying or disassembling. I would love to hear about what type of oil was used and some pictures if able. Actually, any input or pictures on your process would be greatly appreciated. I never owned micarta before so this material is very alien to me. From the research I've done so far it looks like Tung Oil gets good results but I would hate to just buy the first thing I see on the internet if better options exist.

Thank you all so much and looking forward to hearing from you.

[TazKristi]

Hi, BLADE_OCD:
Welcome to our forum. We hope you enjoy your time with us.

Kristi

[Danke]

I soaked mine with Mineral oil and they got very dark (no pics) but then the oil wicked out of them into my jeans pocket and they are back to what they used to look like.

[TkoK83Spy]

Just carry it, use it, handle it and it should change relatively quickly. Example on the left was brand new micarta, the one on the right was one I had for around a year at the time of the photo.

[RustyIron]

Linseed oil and tung oil will work satisfactorily and will dry so it won't stain your clothes. Drying can take days, or as much as a week. Apply sparingly, and wipe off as much as you can. Then set the knife aside until this time next week. Both oils have a distinctive aroma.

[Bolster]

Linseed oil and tung oil will work satisfactorily and will dry so it won't stain your clothes. Drying can take days, or as much as a week. Apply sparingly, and wipe off as much as you can. Then set the knife aside until this time next week. Both oils have a distinctive aroma.

^ Good advice, and if you happen to store shop chemicals like I do, hedge your bets by using fresh oil, say less than a year old. (Ask me how I learned about that....no wait...don't.)

[RustyIron]

^ Good advice, and if you happen to store shop chemicals like I do, hedge your bets by using fresh oil, say less than a year old. (Ask me how I learned about that....no wait...don't.)

Do tell! Do tell!
My homeboy gave me an ancient five-gallon can of linseed oil. I had it for about ten years, and finally opened it about a year ago. I expect it to last the rest of my life. Whatever is left, the priests can use to embalm my mummy.

[Pokey]

Here are a few Spyderco’s with Micarta scales and one from brand-x.

I oiled the PM2 at the bottom using mineral oil and it lightened back up to its natural tint; no real aging going on. The dark marks were there when I bought it. The other side looks like it was rubbed with white chalk. The second PM2 from the bottom hasn’t been oiled, it looked that way when I bought it, no aging since. (Pun intended, it’s a Factory Second and I picked it out because of its color.)

The Shaman above those has aged naturally, no oiling. The edges are darker than the flat surfaces.

Brand-x at the top got much darker naturally.

My theory is that it depends on how much resin soaked into the linen, and when machined, whether a layer of resin or linen is exposed. With linen exposed it absorbs dirt and oil. With the resin exposed, it seals the linen better.

I’m thinking there’s no way to predict your results until you try it.

[sal]

Hi BLADE_OCD,

Welcome to our forum.

I'm with Rick. Patience is a virtue.

sal

[270ultimate]

Here are a few Spyderco’s with Micarta scales and one from brand-x.

I have that brand-x in the carbon fiber.

Man, yours sure is pretty.

[Bolster]

^ Good advice, and if you happen to store shop chemicals like I do, hedge your bets by using fresh oil, say less than a year old. (Ask me how I learned about that....no wait...don't.)

Do tell! Do tell!
My homeboy gave me an ancient five-gallon can of linseed oil. I had it for about ten years, and finally opened it about a year ago. I expect it to last the rest of my life. Whatever is left, the priests can use to embalm my mummy.

For finishing, you want your linseed oil to be light colored and not terribly whiffy--then it'll dry. If it looks like used motor oil and has a strong odor...well, then it's bargain embalming fluid, as you say. I was going to use spare gallons of old vinyl paint for my corpse, but I'm liking your idea better. Seems more natural.

[RustyIron]

I've used quite a lot of linseed oil on my restorations over the years. Invariably it gets darker over the space of a year. Is the darkening due to oxidation of the oil? Is it because my projects get contaminated with other oily filth? That I don't know. But if you want to lay down a finish that will be the same in five years as it is today, it's best to go with one of the newfangled finishes that are available off the shelf from Home Depot.

[Scandi Grind]

Linseed oil and tung oil will work satisfactorily and will dry so it won't stain your clothes. Drying can take days, or as much as a week. Apply sparingly, and wipe off as much as you can. Then set the knife aside until this time next week. Both oils have a distinctive aroma.

Word of warning about Tung Oil, many things that are generically labelled "Tung Oil" may very well be an oil varnish blend, which unsurprisingly behaves something like a middle ground between an oil finish and a varnish finish. Be certain that it is only Tung Oil if that is what you are wanting.

[RustyIron]

Linseed oil and tung oil will work satisfactorily and will dry so it won't stain your clothes. Drying can take days, or as much as a week. Apply sparingly, and wipe off as much as you can. Then set the knife aside until this time next week. Both oils have a distinctive aroma.

Word of warning about Tung Oil, many things that are generically labelled "Tung Oil" may very well be an oil varnish blend,

True dat. If it's labeled "Pure Tung Oil," it's safe to assume that it is. If it's labeled "Tung Oil Finish," it's no more Tung Oil than "Processed Cheese Food Product" is real cheese.

[cjk]

Is this not as simple as:

Remove clip
Dab a tiny bit mineral oil onto a paper towel
Wipe oily paper towel spot all over scales
Wipe off any excess oil with a clean paper towel
Leave to “dry” overnight
Wipe off with a clean paper towel again just in case
Reinstall clip
Profit?

[Windward]

I just rubbed some korubara oil (basically mineral oil) in with a paper towel on mine. Darkens right up. Lasts about a month or so, but after the 4th application or so pretty much been staying that dark for a while

[JoviAl]

These both started life several shades lighter. Having used them for about a year and a half both the linen and burlap micarta have taken on a much darker and glossier finish. The burlap came polished (I believe with a buffing wheel and a bit of beeswax if my memory serves) but the mule scales were coarse/untreated and have darkened satisfactorily just from sweat and whatnot.

[BLADE_OCD]

Linseed oil and tung oil will work satisfactorily and will dry so it won't stain your clothes. Drying can take days, or as much as a week. Apply sparingly, and wipe off as much as you can. Then set the knife aside until this time next week. Both oils have a distinctive aroma.

Thank you for the insight, Rusty Iron. I will follow your directions. If I can't get it to break in over the next few months I am going to try your instructions with Tung Oil and I will let you know how it goes.

[BLADE_OCD]

Thank you all for the pictures and reply's. I received my PARA MILITARY 2 today! I love it.

I'm totally hooked on Spyderco.

[Brock O Lee]

I oiled a Cruwear micarta PM2 using mineral oil a few times. Every time it would return to its original light colour after a few weeks.