Spyderco Forums

Just got the s110v military from bladehq back in December as a gift and in less than 2 months I have broken off the fine needle tip from cutting the plastic of my ice container which is soft plastic and I chipped the blade edge near the top a sliver just from hitting into a glass dish next to wear I was slicing.....I'm I just a reckless knife enthusiasts or should I be worried using this knife on tougher task....like cutting card board lol?

I use my s110v Manix to cut cardboard all the time, just be careful for staples

This is my first experience with this steel never had much issues with my other spydies. When I lost the fine needle like factory tip i was like it happens but the little sliver from the edge tip later on I began to wonder if the steel was poorly heat treated

My guess would be fatigued steel at the edge from factory sharpening. I've beat the heck out of my S110V Military, including using for drywall repair work. Sharpen it and go on about your business.

Used my old Military to cut out carpet on a slab floor. Had no issues. It was hand sharpened by a goofball, so probably had a good convex edge to it.

It's not the toughest steel around but it can work quite well. I run my edges quite thin and don't have many problems, but I am a bit careful with S110V.

S110V gets better with time, just like me.
I chipped the very tip of my S110V Native 5 LW 15 minutes after unboxing it and cutting I-don't-remember-what. After a good reprofiling and a few sharpenings, I noticed a good difference in the frequency at which chipping occured.

Geometry helps (Bump it up from 15°/side to 17°/side) but there's more to it when you apply your own edge. Cutting stuff like plastic containers for objects usually means a lot of twisting around corners with the tip, it can mistakenly apply a good amount of lateral force, something steels like S110V and Maxamet aren't fond of, sadly.

Thanks gentleman I appreciate the real world input on this steel. My mind is at ease knowing I can penetrate into thicker material without breakage...

S110V is actually a really practical steel for certain use cases (it’s my personal favorite high vanadium stainless).

Its best use is as a highly, highly stainless EDC slicer. It’ll definitely get a little brittle on you if you encounter hard objects…that’s more the realm of tool steels. But if you’re mostly messing with packages and stuff like that, it’s a great steel. On a side note, I find it easier to sharpen than people let on. My S110V knives come up screaming sharp with my usual regimen of diamond plates, etc.

I don't recommend it for gutting/cleaning deer. It does not fare well on bone.

Manifestgtr wrote: ↑

Sat Feb 17, 2024 5:09 am

S110V is actually a really practical steel for certain use cases (it’s my personal favorite high vanadium stainless).

Its best use is as a highly, highly stainless EDC slicer. It’ll definitely get a little brittle on you if you encounter hard objects…that’s more the realm of tool steels. But if you’re mostly messing with packages and stuff like that, it’s a great steel. On a side note, I find it easier to sharpen than people let on. My S110V knives come up screaming sharp with my usual regimen of diamond plates, etc.

This ^. IMHO the best way to use such a steel is for pure cutting tasks, clean slicing and not cutting that involves twisting the wrist and all. We can call putting lateral forces on the apex "user error", but there's some cutting tasks that are very hard to complete without such motions

I use s110v all the time. Great steel and I always wondered why people don't like it more. It's not super tough but I don't care. Its in a pocket knife not a chopper. As long as I don't put a really thin edge on it, it's great. I find i can say the same thing about most steel. Super stainless and holds a toothy edge. Cheers

I don't think there's anything wrong with the steel - the tip geometry on the Military is extremely fine so care is needed regardless of the steel used - and bumping the edge into glass will damage any steel.

Welcome to the Forum!

I got the big picture now for a moment there starting to belive that I was jinxed with the blupurple monster....began to question if I should have gotten the benchmade freek with m4 steel thicker tip and all. But after hearing everyone's take on the super steel I feel much better. My parnioa has gone!!! Thnx

"Hitting a glass dish"

That'll do it to S30V, let alone s110v.

S110V is a hyper brittle steel. Invest in a jig system and grind out a new edge.

Yeah I'm starting to understand the importance of a good knife sharpening system I only have the spyderco triangle set usually works good on the lc200 and 20cv

Hi Fsflex,

Welcome to our forum.

Glass is harder than steel and will usually damage an edge or tip if hit.

sal

I used a Manix LW in S110V as my primary work knife for several years at the tail end of my construction career. It worked very well, never taking critical damage in that time. I kept it keen at 15 dps on the brown SM rods.