Native 5 Lightweight - Lube pivot or not?

[Wallach]

Kind of a random question, but I just received a Native 5 Lightweight today and wasn't sure this was a good idea. While normally I'd consider adding a couple drops of KPL onto a new knife pivot, I know that the Native 5 LW models do not run on washers and the blade is just riding on the FRN (with some dedicated molding acting as built-in washers).

So, should I lubricate the pivot here to minimize wear against the FRN? Or would it actually be better to leave it and allow the surface there to "wear in" a bit naturally?

[R100]

Kind of a random question, but I just received a Native 5 Lightweight today and wasn't sure this was a good idea. While normally I'd consider adding a couple drops of KPL onto a new knife pivot, I know that the Native 5 LW models do not run on washers and the blade is just riding on the FRN (with some dedicated molding acting as built-in washers).

So, should I lubricate the pivot here to minimize wear against the FRN? Or would it actually be better to leave it and allow the surface there to "wear in" a bit naturally?

People seem divided on this question but the lockbar running on the tang as you open and close it is still metal on metal so I add a few drops from time to time. This also lubes the pivot of course and for what it's worth both my Native 5 lightweights have really smooth actions.

Dan

[Ramonade]

I only put a few drops on the tang like R100 said. I have 6 or 7 different LWs and most of them are or became really smooth other time. Only the LC200N one stays kinda tight

[anycal]

Surprisingly, I haven't had the need to. As mentioned, just on the lockbar interface, to make the opening smoother.

I feel like I use my REX 45 Native 5 LW as salt series knife. Carried IWB during exercise, occasional dip in a river or lake, scrape mud off of bike tires when there are no sticks to be found, food prep here and there.

Also surprising, how rust resistant REX 45 has been for me. I have couple knives with this steel.

To a lesser extent, I do this with my S110V model, with same experience - no pivot lube needed.

[Windward]

I do it, not sure how much of a difference it makes, action wise, but i think it helps corrosion. That seems to be the first area i get rust on my linerless models, so figured a little protection cant hurt.

[vivi]

I always lube linerless spydies. It makes their action smoother just like any other knife.

[RustyIron]

So, should I lubricate the pivot here to minimize wear against the FRN? Or would it actually be better to leave it and allow the surface there to "wear in" a bit naturally?

How many angels can dance on the edge of your Native 5?

[thojan]

Mine came with a drop shut action from the factory. So I would say it depends on the knife you have.

[JSumm]

The linerless lightweights have really been the only Spydercos that I felt needed a break in time. They work smoothly out of the box, but a little use and they feel like they are binding opening and closing. I typically drop a little mineral oil in the pivot to help break them in. Though after they break in, I do not add any more oil and they keep working smoothly.

[cabfrank]

I always lube linerless spydies. It makes their action smoother just like any other knife.

Exactly this. It makes them smoother, and can't hurt, so why not? Just a couple drops, and it doesn't have to be often, you'll know when you should.

[Traditional.Sharpening]

I always lube linerless spydies. It makes their action smoother just like any other knife.

Funny I never lube anything on a pocket knife, what am I missing aside from the smoothness? Where on the blade is the best spot to apply the lube? I'd think something like a firearm lubricant would be good for this.

[vivi]

I always lube linerless spydies. It makes their action smoother just like any other knife.

Funny I never lube anything on a pocket knife, what am I missing aside from the smoothness? Where on the blade is the best spot to apply the lube? I'd think something like a firearm lubricant would be good for this.

I lube all my folders in three areas when I take them apart and put them back together. On each side of the blade in the pivot area, and where the lockbar contacts the tang (on lockbacks at least, which is mostly all I carry).

Whether the knife has liners or not, washers or not, bronze or teflon washers, a lock of any type of slipjoint, it makes the operation smoother.

I never realized not lubing linerless knives was a thing people did. I've lubed all my salts.

[w3tnz]

Yes minimal amount, pivot and tang same as any other back lock.

[Traditional.Sharpening]

I always lube linerless spydies. It makes their action smoother just like any other knife.

Funny I never lube anything on a pocket knife, what am I missing aside from the smoothness? Where on the blade is the best spot to apply the lube? I'd think something like a firearm lubricant would be good for this.

I lube all my folders in three areas when I take them apart and put them back together. On each side of the blade in the pivot area, and where the lockbar contacts the tang (on lockbacks at least, which is mostly all I carry).

Whether the knife has liners or not, washers or not, bronze or teflon washers, a lock of any type of slipjoint, it makes the operation smoother.

I never realized not lubing linerless knives was a thing people did. I've lubed all my salts.

How would you lube them if you weren't taking them apart? I probably will never pull mine apart unless I see a problem.

[vivi]

Q tip soaked in mieral oil. I depress the lock and get the lock bar where it contacts the tang, then the tang. Then I re-soak it and put it in the tang cut-out where the lock bar goes, and open and close the knife 3/4's the way. Then I cycle it open and closed a few times and let the oil settle into the pivot more.

When I take them apart, I lube the liner or scale, then the inner side of the washer if there's one, then the tang, the pivot hole on the blade, the other side of the tang, the other scale, and where the lockbar makes contact.

It sounds like a lot but one q tip saturdated in mineral oil is enough for the entire process. It doesn't take much.

Any lightweight without liners will have smoother action if you do this.

[olditguy]

Q tip soaked in mieral oil. I depress the lock and get the lock bar where it contacts the tang, then the tang. Then I re-soak it and put it in the tang cut-out where the lock bar goes, and open and close the knife 3/4's the way. Then I cycle it open and closed a few times and let the oil settle into the pivot more.

When I take them apart, I lube the liner or scale, then the inner side of the washer if there's one, then the tang, the pivot hole on the blade, the other side of the tang, the other scale, and where the lockbar makes contact.

It sounds like a lot but one q tip saturdated in mineral oil is enough for the entire process. It doesn't take much.

Any lightweight without liners will have smoother action if you do this.

Well I just tried this with my Salt 2 and it worked great! Drop shut now. Thanks.

[Sharp Guy]

I have 5 or 6 Native 5 LWs. I've never lubed any of them and they never felt like they needed any break in time. They all feel pretty smooth and the blade drops down on my finger by pushing the lockbar. Same with all the other non-LW Native 5s I have. Lube if you must but I feel it's unecessary

I have lubed the surface where the lockbar rides on the tang on other mid-lock models. Just not the Native 5s because I never felt they needed it

[Wallach]

Thanks for the responses. There isn't really any issue with the action of my Native, it was just a thought that crossed my mind because I do not own any other knives where the blade rides directly on the scale material. I'm going to just oil it like any other knife.

[vivi]

Thanks for the responses. There isn't really any issue with the action of my Native, it was just a thought that crossed my mind because I do not own any other knives where the blade rides directly on the scale material. I'm going to just oil it like any other knife.

good call. even if you're happy with their action as is, they'll be even smoother to operate after a drop of oil.

[Notsurewhy]

Do whatcha like. I have several native lw and I've noticed better action from lubing the tang/lockbar. Recommended.

I lubed the pivot once or twice early on with my first native lw, but it seemed to actually make things stickier. The action was still smooth, but it seemed like the viscosity of the oil made it take longer for the blade to drop. So I don't bother with lubing the pivot anymore. Maybe it was the oil I used?