Yellow Magnacut :(

[Jason997]

I would hope that LC200n would fill this space. Why make knives with Magnacut with yellow scales?

[Doc Dan]

I like the yellow. I would like an orange option, though.

[Sharp24/7]

Orange would be miles better IMO.

[LeDe]

I'd rather have a distinct color for each steel. Much more organised.
Orange or anything red/pink for Magnacut.

[ladybug93]

yellow is easier to dye than a lot of other color options listed here. if you want orange, just dye the yellow.

much more than whatever color i want, i'd rather just see them mod-able. most lw salts can't be modded because they lack liners. if we were able to change the scales, you wouldn't have to worry about not liking the color.

[vivi]

What's with the timidity towards dying knives on this forum these days?

Go to your local grocery store with $10 and pick up a bottle of RIT in the color you'd rather have your magnacut knife be. You'll have change leftover.

Pour a few tablespoons worth into a sauce pan, add some water and IIRC a pinch of vinegar, then bring to a very light boil.

Since it's a salt you then dunk the entire knife into the solution for 10 seconds at a time. Remove it with some cooking tongs or tie a string to the opening hole.

Repeat the 10 second dunks until the color sets as dark as you want.

It's $5-8 in materials and about 15 minutes of your time. One bottle of orange rit dye is enough to convert 20-30 knives from yellow to orange.

What exactly is holding people back from doing this?

To me this is like complaining the action of your knife is rough when you could buy a $3 bottle of mineral oil and fix it in two minutes.

[LeDe]

Hey Vivi,
No timidity or complaint here. It actually looks like it fits my skillset.
Just cant be bothered I guess. I have a Ladybug, a dragonfly, a DF hawkbill, a Tasman, a Pacific and also a Salt 2 wharnie on the way. All SE salt yellow.
As much as I would buy a new color, I also like them as they are. And there is something i like having a matching "collection".
I also have have a Salt 2 wharnie and an Atlantic green PE, which I also probably wont change.

Best,

[Bolster]

I like the yellow. I would like an orange option, though.

Ditto that. Both good.

[Hopsbreath]

“Tangerine” Rit

[spydergoat]

I would also prefer another color, but I will just rit dye. As far as the "why" OP it's because they are "Salt Series" knives which have traditionally come in yellow for water use and yellow is high visibility.

[wrdwrght]

Yellow is, of course, one of Spyderco’s Salt signifiers, but, as mentioned, it can be dyed.

Spyderco’s marketing of MagnaCut as a Salt steel is more problematic. It could easily have been marketed as a well-balanced non-Salt steel.

But as a Salt one, it just might kill off the attraction of LC200N and H2, especially PE.

And as a Salt one, why not also the same fate for VG10/N960C, S30V/XHP, and 204P/20CV/M390 among the non-Salts?

[spydergoat]

It could easily have been marketed as a well-balanced non-Salt steel.

Agreed. I think we'll definitely see more magnacut that's not marketed as salt knives. The black magnacut PM2 is the least salty looking and I imagine will sell better than the yellow one. It might be strategic to introduce magnacut first to the salt line so as not to directly obsolete the S30v flagship knives.

[vivi]

“Tangerine” Rit

solid colors aren't the only possibility



Yellow Pacific dyed green and red



Jade Manix XL scales dyed kelly green then given a fade to black on either end.


I agree the yellow is ugly, one of the ugliest colors for a pocket knife. BUT, it's perfectly functional for the intended role of the knife, takes dye very well, and most salt models are also offered in black for more typical every day use.

[Sharp24/7]

What's with the timidity towards dying knives on this forum these days?

Go to your local grocery store with $10 and pick up a bottle of RIT in the color you'd rather have your magnacut knife be. You'll have change leftover.

Pour a few tablespoons worth into a sauce pan, add some water and IIRC a pinch of vinegar, then bring to a very light boil.

Since it's a salt you then dunk the entire knife into the solution for 10 seconds at a time. Remove it with some cooking tongs or tie a string to the opening hole.

Repeat the 10 second dunks until the color sets as dark as you want.

It's $5-8 in materials and about 15 minutes of your time. One bottle of orange rit dye is enough to convert 20-30 knives from yellow to orange.

What exactly is holding people back from doing this?

To me this is like complaining the action of your knife is rough when you could buy a $3 bottle of mineral oil and fix it in two minutes.

The idea intrigued me until I learned I’d need to dunk my knife into boiling water. Dying I’m sure would void the warranty, and it has the potential to damage the knife. No thanks.

[apollo]

“Tangerine” Rit

solid colors aren't the only possibility



Yellow Pacific dyed green and red



Jade Manix XL scales dyed kelly green then given a fade to black on either end.


I agree the yellow is ugly, one of the ugliest colors for a pocket knife. BUT, it's perfectly functional for the intended role of the knife, takes dye very well, and most salt models are also offered in black for more typical every day use.

Nice job Vivi Did not know g10 was able to be dyed. Does the coloring last long on g10? By the way is rit dye a kind of textile dye or is it more for plastic based materials? ( i know plastic isnt the correct word but can not come up with the correct word )

[vivi]

What's with the timidity towards dying knives on this forum these days?

Go to your local grocery store with $10 and pick up a bottle of RIT in the color you'd rather have your magnacut knife be. You'll have change leftover.

Pour a few tablespoons worth into a sauce pan, add some water and IIRC a pinch of vinegar, then bring to a very light boil.

Since it's a salt you then dunk the entire knife into the solution for 10 seconds at a time. Remove it with some cooking tongs or tie a string to the opening hole.

Repeat the 10 second dunks until the color sets as dark as you want.

It's $5-8 in materials and about 15 minutes of your time. One bottle of orange rit dye is enough to convert 20-30 knives from yellow to orange.

What exactly is holding people back from doing this?

To me this is like complaining the action of your knife is rough when you could buy a $3 bottle of mineral oil and fix it in two minutes.

The idea intrigued me until I learned I’d need to dunk my knife into boiling water. Dying I’m sure would void the warranty, and it has the potential to damage the knife. No thanks.

This is exactly the timidity I'm talking about.

This process is something my kid did when she was 6 without any issues. 6. viewtopic.php?p=1622561#p1622561

The water doesn't have to be boiling when you put your knife in. Bring it to a slow boil then you can remove it from the heat source.

Dunking your knife for 10 seconds will not ruin it.

[ZrowsN1s]

I like to take my knives apart, sharpen them, customize them. So dyeing them has always been no big deal.

If you're not the type to do those things, I can see wanting something else. And dyed in the wool so to speak is better for wear.

[Bolster]

...

Tangerine is pretty! Well done, Mr Hops.

For myself, I'd only be interested in dying the butt end a darker color so it doesn't stand out like a beacon in the pocket. Certainly there'd be no need for disassembly if you're just dipping 1" of the butt end? That would be 5" away from the blade and should be no concern about losing temper of the blade with heat...

[TimButterfield]

... should be no concern about losing temper of the blade with heat...

I'm just guessing that being below boiling, since the FRN doesn't melt at that temperature, the blade steel would also not lose hardness at that temperature either. But, I'm not entirely clear on this either. So, asking to learn:

I had always thought, to temper steel, the temperature would more than melt the FRN itself and probably be substantially above boiling point. Is this correct? Once hardened, can that blade temper then be lost at much lower temperatures?

[kennethsime]

... should be no concern about losing temper of the blade with heat...

I'm just guessing that being below boiling, since the FRN doesn't melt at that temperature, the blade steel would also not lose hardness at that temperature either. But, I'm not entirely clear on this either. So, asking to learn:

I had always thought, to temper steel, the temperature would more than melt the FRN itself and probably be substantially above boiling point. Is this correct? Once hardened, can that blade temper then be lost at much lower temperatures?

Boiling water is nowhere near the temperature needed to affect the temper of your steel.