CNC Machine to shape scales

[Ilocano73]

Does anyone here use an affordable CNC machine to shape hardwood scales? I'm thinking of getting a small CNC machine (SainSmart Genmitsu 3020 Pro) and one of the purpose is to shape mule scales for my use.

[standy99]

Shape all my hardwood scales by hand. A good belt sander would be far more handy in my opinion.
Most of my figured Hardwood scales are book matched so probably not something you would CNC

Many CNC scale makers are doing G10, Micarta and other materials.
As a knife maker who watches and follows a lot of custom knife makers….Not many are using CNC for timber scales as timber handle material is usually bought in blocks unlike G10 and Micarta which is bought in 12” x 12” sheets


Another thing I cringe at every time I see a CNC machine cutting scales is how few handles they get out of a 12” x 12” sheet. A CNC might get 4 pairs of handles yet I can get 8-10 sets of scales doing by hand with a belt sander.

But I will say there is definitely plenty more makers using CNC nowadays

[Bolster]

Does anyone here use an affordable CNC machine to shape hardwood scales? I'm thinking of getting a small CNC machine (SainSmart Genmitsu 3020 Pro) and one of the purpose is to shape mule scales for my use.

That looks like loads of fun!! I own a small (400 lb) mill but it is manual not CNC'd. Sometimes I use it like an overhead router, but this unit would take it to the next level...! And so inexpensive, it's amazing.

[Ilocano73]

Shape all my hardwood scales by hand. A good belt sander would be far more handy in my opinion.
Most of my figured Hardwood scales are book matched so probably not something you would CNC

Many CNC scale makers are doing G10, Micarta and other materials.
As a knife maker who watches and follows a lot of custom knife makers….Not many are using CNC for timber scales as timber handle material is usually bought in blocks unlike G10 and Micarta which is bought in 12” x 12” sheets


Another thing I cringe at every time I see a CNC machine cutting scales is how few handles they get out of a 12” x 12” sheet. A CNC might get 4 pairs of handles yet I can get 8-10 sets of scales doing by hand with a belt sander.

But I will say there is definitely plenty more makers using CNC nowadays

Thanks for the insight standby99. I just thought maybe with a CNC machine, I'll get a more consistent replica of right and left if i'm trying some unique shapes for the grip. I will definitely look into it a little more deeper before I try to dive into it. I've done 3D print and scale designs for 3D printing but will be a newbie with CNC.

[Ramonade]

I thought about it to make nested liner scales. I already make scales myself for a lot of Spydercos but only if they have full liners.

Nested liners need the scales to have a pocket ground into them and its not easy by hand. Not worth the time I'd say.

However. The type of CNC you mentionned did not seem to me as capable to do that job. If it is I would love to know. Because I'd invest into one directly !

Right now I'm thinking that my best option would be a mill, best price I found is around 1500€. A small CNC would cost way less but I only see people using them on Balsa woood ou stuff like that, really soft. I would plan to use it on micarta, CF and other composites and woods (including stabilized burl and hard woods)

[Xplorer]

...
Right now I'm thinking that my best option would be a mill,...

There is soooo much you can do with a mini mill...aside from milling slots and shapes, it will let you modify thicknesses, surface prep all sorts of materials, turn round parts, and it's a high-precision drill that will run super slow speed. The list goes on...for a maker, a mini mill is the ductape of the shop...it has seemingly endless uses. If I had only 2 tools in my shop, they would be the my mill and my 2x72 grinder. With those 2 tools and some determination you can make just about anything.

[Xplorer]

While I've stayed way from CNC because I personally think making knives by hand is preferable, I do find that a little machine assistance can be really helpful or even necessary for certain applications.


This is my "new" addition to my shop.


A pantograph milling/engraving machine is how people used to do precision duplication or scaling/re-sizing before CNC existed. This type of old-school machine gives you (2-D) cnc-like precision but also requires you to do the work "by hand" in a way. Conveniently, these machines run on single phase 110V and are generally not very expensive. 3-D work can be done on a pantograph as well, but it's complicated and not worth the trouble to me as it is much easier to do the type of contouring I do on a belt grinder.

With this machine, I hand-make an oversized template (one time). Then, when I want to make that shape (handle, insert, logo, whatever), I trace it on the pantograph at the appropriate reduction ratio. It's much quicker for making precise parts that need to fit together, or for repeating / reproducing anything.

Here's an example of a template for a handle and an optional insert. This template would be reduced 2/1.


Here's the cut-out results on some scrap materials during initial set-up.



Here's an example of an 8/1 reduction:


While I wouldn't expect this type of machine to appeal to someone who is seeking the push-button ease of loading a CAD drawing into a CNC machine, it does offer the same level of precision, and some similar efficiencies. For anyone who likes to learn how old tools work and wants to have a little more hands-on involvement this type of machine can unlock enormous "CNC-adjacent" possibilities.

[Ramonade]

...
Right now I'm thinking that my best option would be a mill,...

There is soooo much you can do with a mini mill...aside from milling slots and shapes, it will let you modify thicknesses, surface prep all sorts of materials, turn round parts, and it's a high-precision drill that will run super slow speed. The list goes on...for a maker, a mini mill is the ductape of the shop...it has seemingly endless uses. If I had only 2 tools in my shop, they would be the my mill and my 2x72 grinder. With those 2 tools and some determination you can make just about anything.

You know me, I already bought a good drill press and a 2 axes table to mimic that mill I can't buy yet . But it's very limiting. I had to invest in a very good 2x72 before, which is done. I'm going to get it on saturday ! 2 position, Flat platen, contact wheel, small wheels attachment, the whole pack.

[Bolster]

A pantograph milling/engraving machine is how people used to do precision duplication or scaling/re-sizing before CNC existed....

Wow, that's cool !!! In the shop classes I took, I never saw such a device. Fantastic results, too! So as it "shrinks" it also produces finer resolution, it appears. Very cool.

@ Ramonade: You already know this, but don't side-load your drill press using your XY table! It doesn't have the bearings to manage side load. And congrats on the 2x72.

[RustyIron]

This is my "new" addition to my shop.

Yeow! That's pretty bäd-æšś. I'm glad you could save an old machine and put it to good use.

[Xplorer]

...
Right now I'm thinking that my best option would be a mill,...

There is soooo much you can do with a mini mill...aside from milling slots and shapes, it will let you modify thicknesses, surface prep all sorts of materials, turn round parts, and it's a high-precision drill that will run super slow speed. The list goes on...for a maker, a mini mill is the ductape of the shop...it has seemingly endless uses. If I had only 2 tools in my shop, they would be the my mill and my 2x72 grinder. With those 2 tools and some determination you can make just about anything.

You know me, I already bought a good drill press and a 2 axes table to mimic that mill I can't buy yet . But it's very limiting. I had to invest in a very good 2x72 before, which is done. I'm going to get it on saturday ! 2 position, Flat platen, contact wheel, small wheels attachment, the whole pack.

Congrats on the grinder! Within a very short time it's going to make you wonder how you ever made anything without it.

[Xplorer]

... Fantastic results, too! So as it "shrinks" it also produces finer resolution, it appears. Very cool.

Thank you.

You've got a keen eye .

That brass template in the photo was one of the first pieces I did. You can see some sloppiness in the lines. It's actually a 1/1 reproduction of an original I scratched into G10 by hand.


This sloppiness would not be acceptable for precisely fitting parts together, but for a logo or something purely decorative it's good enough once the size is reduced. The more you reduce the size the more the imperfections in the template are reduced as well. This makes it appear to improve the resolution. Also, the greater the reduction ratio the more leverage you have to move the stylus around the template compared to the force required to move the cutting head. That allows you to make smoother cutting motions and helps improve results as well.

[Xplorer]

Yeow! That's pretty bäd-æšś. I'm glad you could save an old machine and put it to good use.

I thought about you many times while I was disassembling, de-greasing and scouring the rusty pieces of that old machine.

It had already spent an entire lifetime serving the aeronautic and aerospace industries from 1953 - 1985 in a machine shop in Burbank, CA. It was originally used to engrave letters into aluminum aircraft dash panels.

Restoring it was a slow and tedious job but..when I finally flipped the switch for the first time it was extremely satisfying to see and hear it purr at 13,000 RPM. The most amazing thing is these old machines are so over-built with such high quality steel that after all the years of use, all it took was a thorough "clean up" and the machine runs like new and is still insanely precise.

By the way, I saw the videos of the shop you're working on..WOW! That is one of the coolest things I've seen! You're a lucky guy.

[Ramonade]

Congrats on the grinder! Within a very short time it's going to make you wonder how you ever made anything without it.

I can't wait ! I already dream of the hours I'm gonna win by simply rotating the grinder 90° and using the right wheel to do something I had to start with the flat of my 1x30 then finish by hand for 2 to 3 hours. I liked to have to improvise to make things I wasn't supposed to be able to make "well".

And I'm finally gonna have a grinder that can be used for regrind. My 1x30 did not feature a good platen, even with the one I made for it it wasn't precise enough to hit the plunge grind of a spyderco.