Took Apart My Endura

[Scandi Grind]

I noticed some blade play in my Endura today, checked the pivot screw and saw it was loose. I decided it was a good excuse to take it apart, see what it looked like on the inside, and clean it out. I was a little hesitant disassembling my Endura because I have heard some say it is a bit more difficult than others, but I figured it couldn't be harder than taking apart many guns. In the end I suppose "harder" to take apart was accurate, but not difficult. I knew how it worked fundamentally, so after a few moments of considering the best method, I had it apart in short order. Reassembly was another moment of considering the best way to put it back together, trying one way, then basically deciding to do the exact reverse of how I took it apart, which worked out just fine.

I noticed the tiny little silver washer used on the pivot screw was bent, thought it might be a mistake, then I noticed a strange looking criss-crossed indent in the handle scale pivot hole, also thought it could be a mistake, then realized the only function that washer might serve would be either a lock washer or a tension washer, so now I am assuming it is exactly how it was intended to be.

Interesting set up, but it doesn't seem to do a great job of preventing the pivot screw from backing out, so I'll probably Loctite it, like I have heard many other people do. I am curious if anyone likes to Loctite any of the other screws on their knives?

[bobnikon]

Little dab of blue loctite stick on all of them.

As far as maintenance, the Native 5 LW is a joy to take down and reassemble. So easy with the spring captive in the scale/integrated backspacer. So few parts. Makes the endura/delica seem like juggling ... knives in comparison.

[WyoJon]

I dont even take my spydercos apart and the screws keep falling out of them while motorcycling. Must be the altitude. Spyderco customer service is worthless these days, no answer phone, no call backs, ignore emails. Im ready to sell out and buy benchmades.

[aicolainen]

No attempt to excuse poor customer service, if that’s your experince WyoJon, but I’d rather spend that energy applying a non permanent thread lock on your screws and you should be fine in no time.

[Scandi Grind]

If you aren't doing full disassembly, just applying Loctite, it is literally just a matter of unscrewing, applying threadlocker, then re-screwing. And I took mine apart with nothing more than a 4 dollar screwdriver set.

[cjk]

You want to loctite the pivot screw and the lockbar screw for sure. None of the rest of the body screws have ever backed out on me.

It easiest for me to install the lockbar and lockbar barrel last (well second to last if you count the clip).
I assemble everything else except for the clip, lockbar and its barrel and screw. There's no parts under spring tension at this point.
I then mate the lockbar to the tang of the blade and rotate it into position.
When the lockbar first touches the spring, it will partially obscure the hole that the barrel goes into to retain it, I put the barrel just into its hole in the scale and liner. It's still sticking partially out, but resting on the lock bar.
Then keep rotating the blade and lockbar together into the "knife open" position (now against the spring tension) until you can push the barrel through the hole.
Interfacing the lock bar to the blade helps line up the hole.

This way gets really easy after you do it a couple times.

[JSumm]

Yup! Same here.

The pivot screw on the Seki LWs seem to do it for me. They tend to want to back out with normal use, so I always loctite those.

[WyoJon]

No attempt to excuse poor customer service, if that’s your experince WyoJon, but I’d rather spend that energy applying a non permanent thread lock on your screws and you should be fine in no time.

That would only work if i had screws to loctite.

[WyoJon]

Some of you guys should read about the grades of threads. Aerospace industry has threads that are incredibly precise. I suppose all the cheap taiwan reject screws are more money in sal's pocket. Ill change that opinion when spyderco stops selling me knives that have the screws fall out in one day, then ignore my calls voicemails and emails. For now, i say sal is a cheapskate.

[Scandi Grind]

It easiest for me to install the lockbar and lockbar barrel last (well second to last if you count the clip).

This way gets really easy after you do it a couple times.

Exactly what I ended up doing. Worked quite nicely.

[RyanY]

Some of you guys should read about the grades of threads. Aerospace industry has threads that are incredibly precise. I suppose all the cheap taiwan reject screws are more money in sal's pocket. Ill change that opinion when spyderco stops selling me knives that have the screws fall out in one day, then ignore my calls voicemails and emails. For now, i say sal is a cheapskate.

Sal and Spyderco don’t need anyone else to stand up for them or defend them, I don’t think. However, I must say that the way you are approaching the difficulty you are having is both not very productive and very rude. There are companies out there who are rolling in money by finding ways to Jack up prices and reduce quality while artificially controlling markets.

I can tell you that Spyderco is not one of those companies. From nearly every experience I have been a part of, observed, or heard, they are doing their best to be fair (more than fair really) to customers, fans, and critics alike. I’m sure in the end they will treat you much more kindly than you have been to them.

As someone told you in another thread, you’ll catch more flies with honey than you will with vinegar. Stay safe, and best of luck.

[WyoJon]

Some of you guys should read about the grades of threads. Aerospace industry has threads that are incredibly precise. I suppose all the cheap taiwan reject screws are more money in sal's pocket. Ill change that opinion when spyderco stops selling me knives that have the screws fall out in one day, then ignore my calls voicemails and emails. For now, i say sal is a cheapskate.

Sal and Spyderco don’t need anyone else to stand up for them or defend them, I don’t think. However, I must say that the way you are approaching the difficulty you are having is both not very productive and very rude. There are companies out there who are rolling in money by finding ways to Jack up prices and reduce quality while artificially controlling markets.

I can tell you that Spyderco is not one of those companies. From nearly every experience I have been a part of, observed, or heard, they are doing their best to be fair (more than fair really) to customers, fans, and critics alike. I’m sure in the end they will treat you much more kindly than you have been to them.

As someone told you in another thread, you’ll catch more flies with honey than you will with vinegar. Stay safe, and best of luck.

I think that is exactly what spyderco is doing. The prices made crazy increases the last 3 years. Yet the quality is not as good as it was 5 years ago. I have been calling and emailing spyderco about this since may, with no resolution. I do not think that is them being nice to me.

[Scandi Grind]

I think both sides of the argument have made fair points. I'd like to keep the topic from de-railing now though please.

[WyoJon]

I think both sides of the argument have made fair points. I'd like to keep the topic from de-railing now though please.

Spuderco gets touchy about knives being dissaseembled. They put them together with magic smoke or something.

Good news is our scandi blades dont have screws.

[RyanY]

I think both sides of the argument have made fair points. I'd like to keep the topic from de-railing now though please.

Agreed. Back on topic I also find the method that cjk mentioned to be the most effective. Lock bar last is the fastest and most reliable way to put the seki lockbacks back together without messing anything up.

It doesn’t stop me from wishing that all the seki knives were built like a native 5 however…

[Scandi Grind]

I wonder if this is the same order that Spyderco assembles their knives themself? I immediately noticed that the side the bushing has to go through the lockbar, the hole is tapered so that it is easy to insert the bushing as it begins to line up.

Now that I have taken my knife apart, my thoughts are going back to my original plan to RIT dye my handle scales. I have heard people having mixed results, but I was thinking of making the blue a darker blue, which I imagine it is one of the more likely to not become noticeably worn looking too quickly. I have to do more looking into it, but I have become more fond of the light blue than I originally was. Adds some pop to my knife collection.

[Doc Dan]

Here is what I think. We have a certain code of conduct on this forum. We do not mind criticism. I've had criticisms in the past. However, this is a nice place to be and it is all in how we voice those criticisms. We try to be constructive and not call people names or label them as vile. I hope you will take this to heart, or you can find another place to hang out.