Spyderco Forums

Hi, I've searched through the old threads on this Mule, but I think making a new one is better, since it's a new subject.
I've recently bought a MT22P, the seller had used it, broke the very very end of the tip and the rest of the edge was simply rolled or dull.

I've decided to reprofile to 15° like all my other mules, before putting a handle on it.
I've done as usual and used very light pressure on my WS Precision Adjust, with Venev stones.
I've tried both the venev and the diamond stones that come with the system. When the blade produces a burr, she breaks off on the next pass and takes a bit of the apex with her.



Has anyone experienced this ? Should I go to something like 17 or 20° for this steel? I never encountered a steel I couldn't bring down to 15dps.



ETA : I've sharpened S110V, Maxamet and all without any similar issue. Some light chipping on my first time with S110V, but I've adapted my pressure and now It's perfect.

If I was having that issue, I would just keep going. I've seen factory edges that were overly brittle, and had to keep removing them to get down to better steel.

How much of the edge have you removed? Does it just keep happening over and over?

TomAiello wrote: ↑

Sun May 15, 2022 9:45 am

If I was having that issue, I would just keep going. I've seen factory edges that were overly brittle, and had to keep removing them to get down to better steel.

How much of the edge have you removed? Does it just keep happening over and over?

Before getting to that point, I reprofiled the whole blade to 15dps, so in theory I removed a lot except at the apex. Once I apexed the blade, it kept happening yes. I ended up continuing, with less aggressive stones , minimal if not zero pressure, etc.

I think this is what you are describing, and since it was a reprofiling job, the steel behind the apex is the spot where I removed the less material. After an hour of permanent chipping all along the blade, I ended up going freehand. I now have a functional edge, but I wouldn't trust it much. Imma cut some to see if everything holds.

Ramonade wrote: ↑

Sun May 15, 2022 10:12 am

TomAiello wrote: ↑

Sun May 15, 2022 9:45 am

If I was having that issue, I would just keep going. I've seen factory edges that were overly brittle, and had to keep removing them to get down to better steel.

How much of the edge have you removed? Does it just keep happening over and over?

Before getting to that point, I reprofiled the whole blade to 15dps, so in theory I removed a lot except at the apex. Once I apexed the blade, it kept happening yes. I ended up continuing, with less aggressive stones , minimal if not zero pressure, etc.

I think this is what you are describing, and since it was a reprofiling job, the steel behind the apex is the spot where I removed the less material. After an hour of permanent chipping all along the blade, I ended up going freehand. I now have a functional edge, but I wouldn't trust it much. Imma cut some to see if everything holds.

My S110V Manix was like that, I had to sharpen it a few times before I could get it hair popping sharp.

I never encountered anything like that with any of my RWL34 blades, but I alternate sides and avoid forming a burr.

The edge seems to be ok, it's really sharp, there's just some convexity to it. I did raise a small burr because I had to remove some material and wanted to be sure I did hit apex all the way from tip to heel.
The burr was then reduced and I just alternated 1 pass on each side with lighter and lighter pressure until I felt ok with it. Cutting some cardboard and wood didn't show any sign of a burr, I then stropped 1 pass on each side on some 0.5 micron strop.

I think that this isn't something related to RWL34 particularly. I don't know what really happened to this edge before it ended up in my hands. The metal must have been quite stressed. There was no chips but that doesn't mean the steel hasn't gotten its fair deal of abuse !

I looks like you are all good now, but I suggest "cutting" or flattening the apex on stones and then another sharpening. What you saw looks and sounds like fatigued steel to me. I think with normal sharpenings the edge would produce better results for you.

With rwl34 you 15 degrees and less is perfectly acceptable.

Congrats on your mule get!