A New Thread For Axes, Hatchets, Hawks & Other Striking Tools

[Mushroom]

I designed this variation of a fighting tomahawk. From my past careers in the Military and LE, plus being a practitioner of FMA and Silat, this design complements my skillsets. I took design traits from my northern cousins from the Philippines (Igorots) head hunter axe. I shrunk it down so one can easily integrate this with modern Mil gear and even conceal it under a light over garment.

This design is NOT made for normal camping chores.

I named it : “Multo” (means ghost in my native language).

That thing looks mean. I like it a lot. Nice work!

[2002WRX]

I designed this variation of a fighting tomahawk. From my past careers in the Military and LE, plus being a practitioner of FMA and Silat, this design complements my skillsets. I took design traits from my northern cousins from the Philippines (Igorots) head hunter axe. I shrunk it down so one can easily integrate this with modern Mil gear and even conceal it under a light over garment.

This design is NOT made for normal camping chores.

I named it : “Multo” (means ghost in my native language).

That thing looks mean. I like it a lot. Nice work!

Thank You!!

[kerrcobra]

Dang, I love that. Kind of reminds me of the TrackerDan/Winkler/RMJ mini tomahawk designs...of course theirs are "tacticool" and totally impractical, but yours looks like it would work quite well for its intended purpose. Love it.

[2002WRX]

Dang, I love that. Kind of reminds me of the TrackerDan/Winkler/RMJ mini tomahawk designs...of course theirs are "tacticool" and totally impractical, but yours looks like it would work quite well for its intended purpose. Love it.

Thanks !

The Tracker Dan and Winkler Rnd/Sayoc/Terminal List hawks has design characteristics from Filipino axes. Definitely, the Tracker Dan model is way sharper than the Winkler Rnd.

I also have a Winkler Rnd and it isn’t that sharp and the balance is set up to be head heavy. Same with many of the “Tactical” hawks that are available out there.

On my Multo, its balance point is close to the middle. This allows rapid / controllable strikes or broken strikes. The edge will slice organic mater with ease. Not everyone needs a hawk like this. I designed it to compliment my martial skillsets and give me a defensive tool when projectile based weapons are not available.

[2002WRX]

Balance points on my Multo and the trainer.

[2002WRX]

Here is a pic of my Winkler Rnd / Sayoc hawk. I like the build quality a lot. The edge is pretty dull out of the box, but will still mess someone up if applied properly. For me, this is set up for a hatchet/ head heavy feel.

[2002WRX]

I snagged this hawk from my friend that owns Half Faced blades.

[JD Spydo]

I snagged this hawk from my friend that owns Half Faced blades.

I like this Hawk for sure. Not only does it have a nice tactical look to it but I can see this Hawk actually being great for all kinds of cutting chores too. So many of the tactical type axes and hawks are only geared for self defense. But I want any striking tool I own to be capable of doing necessary work as well.

[Scandi Grind]

I don't use axes a lot, only recently had the opportunity to practice some with anything larger than a hatchet because a tree fell in my yard as well as some large branches. My question is somewhat broad because of my general ignorance, and also effected by subjective views no doubt, but I was wondering if the size and weight of an axe could generally be categorized to be used for certain tasks or sizes of tree? For example, what types of axe can you use for felling a 12 in. diameter tree? Or how heavy does it have to be to split firewood? When would you want a 26 in. handle or a 5 pound head?

Pardon such broad questioning, I am just trying to get a better understanding of how these different characteristics effect the use and performance of an axe.

[benben]

Any of you hatchet heads see the scene where Chris Pratt used what looks like a Winkler hatchet in The Terminal List?

[2002WRX]

Any of you hatchet heads see the scene where Chris Pratt used what looks like a Winkler hatchet in The Terminal List?

Yes. It is the Winkler Rnd/Sayoc hawk. The one in the series had wooden scales with tribal markings. My version has the micarta scales.

[kennethsime]

[zuludelta]

I designed this variation of a fighting tomahawk. From my past careers in the Military and LE, plus being a practitioner of FMA and Silat, this design complements my skillsets. I took design traits from my northern cousins from the Philippines (Igorots) head hunter axe. I shrunk it down so one can easily integrate this with modern Mil gear and even conceal it under a light over garment.

This design is NOT made for normal camping chores.

I named it : “Multo” (means ghost in my native language).

Nice! I can trace part of my lineage to the Kalinga province in the Philippines, and I've always wondered what a modern version of a Kalinga/Bontoc headhunting "wasay" would look like.

[2002WRX]

I designed this variation of a fighting tomahawk. From my past careers in the Military and LE, plus being a practitioner of FMA and Silat, this design complements my skillsets. I took design traits from my northern cousins from the Philippines (Igorots) head hunter axe. I shrunk it down so one can easily integrate this with modern Mil gear and even conceal it under a light over garment.

This design is NOT made for normal camping chores.

I named it : “Multo” (means ghost in my native language).

Nice! I can trace part of my lineage to the Kalinga province in the Philippines, and I've always wondered what a modern version of a Kalinga/Bontoc headhunting "wasay" would look like.

Awesome!! I miss the Philippines. Hopefully, if things line up, I will get a chance to visit family there this year.

[zuludelta]

I named it : “Multo” (means ghost in my native language).

BTW, if you want to double-down on the Igorot headhunter axe association, you might want to consider the name "Aran" for this or a future design. The word "aran" can mean "ghost" or "nature spirit" depending on usage context in both the Kalinga and Ibanag languages IIRC (and has similar/adjacent meanings in other languages spoken in the Cordillera region), and is also the name for a cave in Benguet province popular with spelunkers).

[2002WRX]

I named it : “Multo” (means ghost in my native language).

BTW, if you want to double-down on the Igorot headhunter axe association, you might want to consider the name "Aran" for this or a future design. The word "aran" can mean "ghost" or "nature spirit" depending on usage context in both the Kalinga and Ibanag languages IIRC (and has similar/adjacent meanings in other languages spoken in the Cordillera region), and is also the name for a cave in Benguet province popular with spelunkers).

Definitely food for thought! Possibly, for a Version 2.

[zuludelta]

I don't use axes a lot, only recently had the opportunity to practice some with anything larger than a hatchet because a tree fell in my yard as well as some large branches. My question is somewhat broad because of my general ignorance, and also effected by subjective views no doubt, but I was wondering if the size and weight of an axe could generally be categorized to be used for certain tasks or sizes of tree? For example, what types of axe can you use for felling a 12 in. diameter tree? Or how heavy does it have to be to split firewood? When would you want a 26 in. handle or a 5 pound head?

I'm not a logger or forester or arborist, but I've a fair amount of volunteering experience clearing the local forest trails of damaged & downed trees, so I can offer some insight.

Firstly, if you've never felled a tree before, I'd recommend getting a professional to do it for you unless you're talking really small trees (say trees 8 inches or less in diameter) in relatively open areas, or at the very least, get someone who has experience felling trees to assist and guide you. You don't want to hurt yourself or others or have the tree falling on structures or vehicles or causing unnecessary environmental damage.

For a tree 12 inches in diameter, I would actually recommend using an appropriately-sized fixed or folding handsaw suitable for forestry/arborist work (possibly supplemented by wedges to prevent sawblade binding) along with an axe, instead of an axe alone. While it is possible to fell a 12-inch (and bigger) tree with just a felling/chopping axe, it takes experience to be able to do it properly & safely. Using an axe in conjunction with a saw is more efficient and will allow you to make more precise facecuts & backcuts (the cuts that determine the direction the tree will fall), making the whole process safer.

However, if the task is just bucking an already felled tree into smaller logs, any decent chopping axe (don't confuse it for a splitting axe) should be good to go, though I would still advise using a saw (or a saw in conjunction with an axe) instead of an axe for anything larger than, say, 7 or 8 inches in diameter. It takes less energy in the long run, you don't subject your joints to repetitive impacts, and it's safer, especially if you don't have a lot of experience chopping with an axe.

Fiskars makes decent 17", 23.5", and 28" chopping axes that sell for a reasonable price. They're not handmade "fancy lad" axes or heavy-duty professional forester tools, but they're robust enough for use on logs 12 inches or less in diameter. You'll be able to get more power into your swing with a longer handle, but the handle length you want will also be determined by factors like your height, as well as whether or not you'll be packing your axe (I use a 17" chopping axe when I go clearing/maintaining trails, as I have to hike a fairly long distance to where I do the work).

Don't confuse Fiskars' chopping axes for their splitting axes, though (they have different geometries suited for different tasks). A chopping axe has a more acute grind that cuts across the grain & penetrates deeper into the trunk, while a splitting axe has a heavier, more obtuse head better suited to splitting logs along the grain but it won't penetrate as deep when chopping across the grain. In my experience (and where I live, where I mostly deal with soft woods like fir, cedar, hemlock, and pine) a good chopping axe can work as a decent splitting axe, but the reverse doesn't necessarily apply.

If you want a dedicated tool just for splitting firewood, the Estwing Fireside Friend maul is a great option for smaller logs. If you're dealing with larger logs made of harder wood however, you'll want to scale up to an 8-lb. (or heavier) maul with a longer handle.

Hope that helps.

[Scandi Grind]

Hope that helps.

Thanks zuludelta, your reply is quite helpful.

I have been getting excited about axes lately, hoping to get something nice some time, even looking hard at the offerings from Hoffman Blacksmithing. Beautiful axes. I have been trying to understand what the most important axe for my own use would be starting out. I consider a hatchet important for pack-ability, but I already have an OK Council Tool hatchet with a wood handle (I really like wood) and I also have seen the Fiskars hatchets for cheap and figured I could always get one of those too.

I moved a couple years ago from a community in north central Texas to the country in southern Arkansas where there are many more trees than I am used to. I have learned that falling branches frequently invade your yard out here and have found myself using my cheapy Husky 3.5 lb. polymer handled axe quite frequently. I also had a perhaps 80 some foot tall, hundred year old pine tree fall in my family's front yard, and we removed it ourself, (learning experience there) using a chain saw for the first time, and I used my axe to break down branches and for a little de-limbing. My axe does the job, and I learned to sharpen it to be effective, but being an edged tool enthusiast I have just been considering an upgrade for my enjoyment.

So my most frequent use is breaking down branches up to 5 in. in diameter, had a branch the size of a tree fall last year though around 12 in. at the thick parts. Then I wanted to be able to split wood, it sounds like a maul might be the way to go for that? I also had the thought of wanting it to be capable of felling smallish trees, although that would be an admittedly rare task. My current Husky axe has around a 32 in. handle, I like having around that much length, it takes less effort and bending to use and allows me to easily cut between my feet when standing on a log.

What I am not sure of is what weight of head to look for. I don't think it need more than 3.5 lbs., what I am wondering though is if I could go for less, maybe 2.25 lb. From my described work it seems that weight would be easier to handle but still capable of my regular tasks. So that would be something that falls into the category of "camp axe" or "boys axe," the caveat being that that weight tends not to come with handles longer than 28 in. max, and I don't know if that would bug any considering I have liked the 32 in. I have now. Another thing I like though is that this is a light enough option for taking camping easily and even carrying on my back for certain periods of time without having to downscale to a hatchet. I feel like adding a saw to my kit also means I might be able to get away with the lighter head nicely. Thanks for the suggestion on the saw btw, also wouldn't mind some suggestions on a saw to get?

Anyway, that's basically my current debate, should it be somewhere around 3 lbs. or 2.25 lbs. I feel I am leaning toward something lighter, but would appreciate any confirmation or condemnation of my logic so far.

[zuludelta]

So my most frequent use is breaking down branches up to 5 in. in diameter, had a branch the size of a tree fall last year though around 12 in. at the thick parts.

[... ]

What I am not sure of is what weight of head to look for. I don't think it need more than 3.5 lbs., what I am wondering though is if I could go for less, maybe 2.25 lb.

[... ]

Another thing I like though is that this is a light enough option for taking camping easily and even carrying on my back for certain periods of time without having to downscale to a hatchet.

Your Husky sounds like it should be more than sufficient based on what you describe as the most common size of deadfall that you deal with, especially since you're already comfortable with its handle length. Three-and-half pounds is a good weight, and yes, you could conceivably go even lighter especially if going with a lighter axe will significantly help you with accuracy. A heavier axe will throw off more wood, of course, but if your strikes are not on target, you're just wasting energy. Better to be precise with a lighter axe than to be inaccurate with a heavier axe.

I feel like adding a saw to my kit also means I might be able to get away with the lighter head nicely. Thanks for the suggestion on the saw btw, also wouldn't mind some suggestions on a saw to get?

I'm partial to Silky folding saws myself (been using them for years). They cut very, very efficiently, hold their edge for a long time & I can use them in situations where it would be impossible to use a bucksaw, such as when making undercuts on downed trees, and you can use them in areas where you don't have enough space to properly swing an axe. The most important thing to keep in mind with Silky saws, though, is that they only cut on the pull-stroke, so be mindful of your technique (it takes some getting used to if you've never used a Japanese saw before): I've seen people bend or even snap the sawblades on their Silky because they put pressure on the push-stroke (heck, I did it a couple of times when I first started using one).

Beyond that, just make sure you get a long enough saw for what you're cutting. You want a blade that is at least a third again longer than the diameter of the trunk/log you are cutting. So for example, if you're sawing a tree or branch with a 5 inch diameter, the shortest sawblade you'll want to use should be around 7 inches and ideally you'll want something in the 9 or 10 inch range. It's possible to work around this rule by being creative, but it's just better to have the right tools to begin with. Also, keep in mind that Silky produces sawblades with four different sizes of sawteeth: Small, Medium, Large, and Extra Large. Small is best for dense, dead, hard, wood and carpentry applications, Medium is a decent all-rounder, while Large and Extra Large are best for live (or recently alive) wood & green wood. The Silky I use the most is a Silky Gomboy Professional Curve with a 240 mm blade with Medium teeth as it's long enough for the majority of deadfall I deal with. I've seen videos of experienced woodsmen using a Silky Katanaboy (the longest folding saw Silky makes) & they can cut through trees/logs almost as fast as with a chainsaw.

One last thing: besides an axe and a saw, you'll want to have at least a couple of felling wedges & a decent splitting wedge. You won't always need them, but they're good to have for "just in case" situations. Felling wedges are affordable plastic wedges you insert into the cut to keep the blade (of either a chainsaw or a handsaw) from binding & getting pinched in the cut, which is super-annoying if you've ever had to deal with it. A splitting wedge is just a heavy steel wedge that you hammer on to split really large logs. In theory, you can use a splitting wedge as a felling wedge, but if you accidentally hit the splitting wedge with your chainsaw, it's game over (also, if you have to hike to where you are going to work, a splitting wedge will be too heavy to lug around... a plastic felling wedge weighs several ounces, while a steel splitting wedge can weigh several pounds).

[Scandi Grind]

Well I decided to spend a few hours thinning my cheap Husky after watching a video someone posted on another thread here. The guy said to just use a coarse file, which is fine with me since that's all I have! It looks pretty good, tested it out and it cuts pretty good too. I think I'm happy with it. Doesn't feel quite as sharp as I hoped, but I guess it's not a knife after all.

Basically I thinned out the cheeks significantly, leaving more at the ends than the center, then sharpened along the primary bevel till I formed a burr with the file. Then I switched to my coarse diamond Worksharp field sharpener, using a circular motion at first, then medium grit, then a Spyderco fine ceramic. I started doing strokes instead of circles toward the end and that seemed to yield a sharper edge maybe. I still want to experiment with the edge to see if I can improve it, but it is quite functional at this point for sure. The final sharpening produced a microbevel I suppose, which can't be seen in the pictures.

The grinding isn't exactly even on both sides of the axe. I think that it is a little bit my fault and a little bit the axes fault, but whatever the case, the left face came out a bit thinner than the right. I did my best to tweak it to look close but in the end I think it is only an aesthetic issue.

If this seems to work well after some testing, my next subject will be my Council Tool hatchet which I think would benefit greatly from some thinning.