Pacific Salt talk

[Archimedes]

I love the salt series. I gave a H1 Pacific salt to a friend like 7 years ago. He absolutely abused that knife and still carries it as his gardening knife. I am amazed how well the knife has held up. If I see him in the next few weeks I will get a picture of it.

Just tough knives. I have been using them as my work knives for years.

[tangent]

The Pacific Salt 1 & 2 are my absolute favorite and most carried Spydercos……. If we get a Pacific Salt in Magnacut my knife buying/addiction may end because it will be my grail knife.

100% agree with this ^ (emphasizing the word ‘may’)

[spoonrobot]

.......

Yeah I still don't see it, maybe I'm looking at this the wrong way but it still doesn't seem to me like the blade grind itself is being ground thinner, the thickness of the spine is still just the result of being lower on the blade grind. Spine thickness doesn't indicate taper thickness.

spy_c91fpgr2_s2.jpg



This is how distal taper is ground:

spy_c91fpgr2_s2 (1).jpg

But the problem here is, if it were actually ground like this then we would see a significant difference in behind the edge thickness at the tip of the blade and you'd also see that reflected in the bevel width, the bevel would be much thinner at the tip and much wider in the back.


If you look at the old SE Stretch, you can see the difference in height of the serrations from tip to heel, this shows the distal taper:




But on that Pacific we see the serrations height is the same throughout the edge which to me suggests that the blade grind thickness is uniform from tip to heel, meaning no taper. The spine is only thinner because it dips down lower into the FFG.

I think you are confused. The blade stock gets thinner as it moves towards the tip. This is clear both in-hand as well as in the pictures I posted. Whether or not that is due to relationship between the FFG and the blade shape, or because the cross-section is thinned as well is not relevant. Although in this case, the thickness behind the edge does get thinner, I measured it.




This picture shows distal taper, that's the end of the story.

[VooDooChild]

I think Davids saying something like if you drew a line from the tip to the pivot and looked at the cross sectional area of the length of that line, (or really an area between two close lines) then there wouldnt be any reduction in thickness from "handle" to "tip".

As in a big ffg rectangular piece of steel, with the same thickness from one end to the other. The "distal taper" is only occuring due to the cut out blade shape.

Any horizontal line that ran through that rectangle that is still present on the final blade shape technically wouldnt have any taper.
However, the overall blade shape does in fact have a distal taper, as the spine (along with any curve or line that isnt one of those "horizontal" lines, that you could draw through the blade shape) now experiences a varying degree of thickness.

As far as using the blade as a whole there is a distal taper effect.

Honestly youre (probably) both right, this seems more of a semantics issue.

Now imagine if that rectangular piece of steel had a distal taper frome one end to the other, and then you cut your blade shape into it...

[VooDooChild]

To simplify what I said above...

Imagine a ffg rectangular piece of steel with no distal taper. If you cut a blade shape into it, so long as it has a dropped tip, then there is an overall distal taper, even if any given translated horizontal line stays the same thickness along its length.

If that ffg rectangular piece of steel had a distal taper, and then you cut a blade shape into it, the overall shape would now have a super distal taper. As that blade shape gives it a taper, and any horizontal line through the rectangular piece that is still present on the cut out piece also has a distal taper along its length.

[Evil D]

snipperoo

[Evil D]

...

[JSumm]

And here's the problem comparing the Pacific blade shape to this illustration..

Ok, let me just say. I love snip it tools with redlining and call-out boxes. I use them all the time at work for emails for clarification. I use what was called Jing now Capture by Techsmith.

All this Pac Salt talk has me dead set on a model next year. Still on the fence for H-1 vs LC200N, but Vivi is very convincing towards the H-1 route. I doubt MangaCut will make it to the Pac Salt by 2022.

[vivi]

just a reminder this thread is for talking about Pacific Salts.

Ya wanna argue about distal tapers, please take it somewhere else.

[Evil D]

just a reminder this thread is for talaking about Pacific Salts.

Ya wanna argue about distal tapers, please take it somewhere else.

Yeah, wasn't my intention but at least it sorta does apply. I'll bow out, it really makes no difference anyway.

[spoonrobot]

One thing that surprised me about the Pacific Salt 2 was how much stiffer the handles were compared to the original model. It didn't seem like it would make a big difference but it really does when cutting off plane or with light prying cuts.

I'm kind of stuck now because I loaded up on H1 models when they were cheap so I don't really need any more Pacifics. Although I suppose I could start modding some of the ones I have now to the pointy-tip standard, would give me an excuse to buy more.

[vivi]

One thing that surprised me about the Pacific Salt 2 was how much stiffer the handles were compared to the original model. It didn't seem like it would make a big difference but it really does when cutting off plane or with light prying cuts.

I'm kind of stuck now because I loaded up on H1 models when they were cheap so I don't really need any more Pacifics. Although I suppose I could start modding some of the ones I have now to the pointy-tip standard, would give me an excuse to buy more.

That's one drawback to the black blade versions, the pointy tip mod doesn't look so great. Makes me second guess making a duplicate of my green one....might do a satin one next instead.

[tangent]

I was thinking the same thing. I guess you could use a sharpie to try to correct it, but something doesn’t feel right about doing that. LOL

[tonijedi]

I have a Pacific Salt 1 (SE H1), among 3 other salts in H1 - PE Dragonfly, SE Salty 2 and PE Aqua Salt.

I haven't used much the Pacific Salt, but it is indeed a great knife. I like that the hollow grind is taller than on the Salt 2 (that's a negative point for the H1 Salt 2).

Overall, these Salt knives are just what I need and care about on a pocket knife: ease of maintenance, ease of carry, ease of use.

In fact, on all my lifetime, I never needed more edge retention on a certain task or day. I never dulled a knife to a point I needed to stop doing what I was doing to sharpen it. I never needed more thoughness. But I did get rusty blades, and I did struggle to sharpen some steels.

On a practical way, these knives suit my needs very well, and I'm just talking about the "lesser" H1.

That said, I'm eager to try MagnaCut, not because of edge retention (abrasion) but because of edge stability. I've deformed some H1 edges on daily tasks, because of banging the edge on metal or other hard materials.

A MagnaCut Salt 2 would be an instant buy.

[vivi]

I have a Pacific Salt 1 (SE H1), among 3 other salts in H1 - PE Dragonfly, SE Salty 2 and PE Aqua Salt.

I haven't used much the Pacific Salt, but it is indeed a great knife. I like that the hollow grind is taller than on the Salt 2 (that's a negative point for the H1 Salt 2).

Overall, these Salt knives are just what I need and care about on a pocket knife: ease of maintenance, ease of carry, ease of use.

In fact, on all my lifetime, I never needed more edge retention on a certain task or day. I never dulled a knife to a point I needed to stop doing what I was doing to sharpen it. I never needed more thoughness. But I did get rusty blades, and I did struggle to sharpen some steels.

On a practical way, these knives suit my needs very well, and I'm just talking about the "lesser" H1.

That said, I'm eager to try MagnaCut, not because of edge retention (abrasion) but because of edge stability. I've deformed some H1 edges on daily tasks, because of banging the edge on metal or other hard materials.

A MagnaCut Salt 2 would be an instant buy.

It will be an interesting comparison to be sure. While H1 is extremely tough the apex can deform much more easily than a harder steel like K390. So magnacut interests me there as well.

Well said in regards to H1's general performance.

[Bloke]

SE, H1 has suited my daily needs to a tee now for a few years.

I prolly should try SE, LC200 but I doubt it will out perform SE, H1 by an truly significant margin and besides it doesn’t come in a small HB knife with yellow scales.

[DrHE]

Just ordered a Pac Salt LC200N for our all weather dog walking knife. We live in the DFW area of Texas so not much salt water. That said, I wanted one that could be carried in a auto deployment neck sheath outside clothing rain or shine without any worry or issue at all. I went to the SE for its heavy cutting and slashing ability as it can be used defensively too.

[Manixguy@1994]

Vivi thanks for all of your comments . I have only the Salt Dragonfly and after the last two years in my right pocket it just plain works for me . I have been looking at the Pacific and there a lot of positives. I just wish Spyderco offered a black scale with an uncontested blade . I just don’t understand the need for a black coated blade for corrosion resistant steel . I definitely don’t want yellow scales on that big of knife . If I can get past the black blade I will buy one , right now I sort of on the fence . I am quite impressed by the what you have presented here and very glad you took the time to break it all down . Regards MG2

[VooDooChild]

...I just wish Spyderco offered a black scale with an uncontested blade . I just don’t understand the need for a black coated blade for corrosion resistant steel ...

You mean like on page 75 of the catalog. They offer it.

[Bloke]

dog walking knife.