Spyderco Forums

Ramonade wrote: ↑

Tue May 10, 2022 7:10 pm

Capt'n Boatsalot wrote: ↑

Tue May 10, 2022 2:52 pm

Ramonade wrote: ↑

Sat Feb 26, 2022 3:36 am

Something like 20 passes/side on the corners of the fine rods ands it's screaming sharp again.

Hi Robin,
I was looking for clarification on this point. I usually sharpen my SE Spydercos with the corner of a medium rod. However, I usually only sharpen the side that the serrations are ground on, and not the "back side". I treat it as if it were chisel ground.

Should I be sharpening both sides?

Also great pictures showing the SE Delica and the SE Meadowlark. Those are stunning!

My bad, I didn't express myself correctly! With SE i don't know how fast it'll create a bevel on the other side of you do alternating passes. After an advice from Sal, I've only been using the white fine rods.
And I usually only makes passes on the ground side, but i stop every 2 or 3 passes to inspect the edge and see if a burr is forming in the other side. If I detect anything, I make 1 or 2 passes on the other side.
When I do these, i take the most acute angle possible while still hitting every points of the edge.

(Might not be a really explicit answer, it's 3am here!)

Really appreciate the clarification. I understand what you're saying. I'll try the white fine rods next time I sharpen SE, and will also be watching for a burr forming on the unground side. Thanks!!

ETA: I think I'm going to get a Meadowlark Hawkbill SE for myself. I've got plenty of SE Spyderco, but no Hawkbills. And this is such a specialized use case, that I think I'd like to first try it in a Byrd to see if I even use it (plus a good reason to try a Byrd). I will also grab a regular PE Meadowlark for a buddy who is getting into knives, but isn't familiar with Spyderco. Seems like a great intro.

Thanx Robin,

I think that system is the best. Works for me.

sal

If I may be so bold, I would recommend a Harrier 2 over the Meadowlark for your buddy. It's just slighly bigger than the Meadowlark but the chamfered edges on the handle makes it so much more comfortable in the hand. I just wish they made a hawkbill with the Harrier 2 handle. Such great values these new Byrds, just loving the wharnie versions.

+1

As said above, I would also toss in my recommendation for the harrier! Unless your buddy is restricted to the shorter knife, the harrier is just a couple millimeters longer but gets you a bunch more usable edge length, and what I consider a handle more comfortably sized for a wide range of hands. If you are going for the frn version, the harrier has soft rounded edges, less rough “grip” due to closer spaced traction pattern, no plastic jimping and such. And overall, the harrier feels sturdier with better action for only a couple $$ more, literally.

Agreed on the Harrier! My first Byrd was the SE Hawkbill and my second the SE Harrier 2 Wharny. I really enjoy using and maintaining the Hawkbill but the Harrier FRN takes it to another level. I echo the earlier wish for a Harrier 2 Hawkbill.

My experience with SE is not terribly deep, but the forumites who have shared their best practices have my gratitude. I really butchered things up on my early SE Salt models until I started paying attention to some of the advice offered here. I feel pretty confident maintaining a SE now in both H1 and VG10. I find the Byrd SE in 8CR easier to sharpen than my SE Spydies and would love to see some Byrds in BD1N someday.

z1r wrote: ↑

Fri Mar 11, 2022 11:55 am

Ramonade, I appreciate your feedback. I appreciate the confirmation that it is as easy to sharpen as I'd suspected.

I've had a thing for the Hawkbill for some time, I really like the finger choil. I don't get to use mine that much but have felt it is an awesome knife at an awesome price. I think I'll run down to the SFO and get my son one.

The Byrd hawkbill has the perfect arc and shallow serrations. When it's sharp, it really out performs all other hawkbills. It just doesn't have the same edge retention as premium steels, but it sure sharpens easy .

crazywednesday wrote: ↑

Thu Aug 04, 2022 8:30 pm

z1r wrote: ↑

Fri Mar 11, 2022 11:55 am

Ramonade, I appreciate your feedback. I appreciate the confirmation that it is as easy to sharpen as I'd suspected.

I've had a thing for the Hawkbill for some time, I really like the finger choil. I don't get to use mine that much but have felt it is an awesome knife at an awesome price. I think I'll run down to the SFO and get my son one.

The Byrd hawkbill has the perfect arc and shallow serrations. When it's sharp, it really out performs all other hawkbills. It just doesn't have the same edge retention as premium steels, but it sure sharpens easy .

That really sums it up well. I am still a relative noob when it comes to sharpening serrations, and, while I can't really getting it paper slicing sharp, I can get it to where it slices things in the garden center easily. It really performs well in that environment. I so wish they'd make a PE Hawkbill. I have a Crossbill and hate the weight but love how well that blade performs and how easy it is to maintain. Sometime "good enough" steel is good enough!

z1r wrote: ↑

Fri Aug 05, 2022 9:49 am

crazywednesday wrote: ↑

Thu Aug 04, 2022 8:30 pm

z1r wrote: ↑

Fri Mar 11, 2022 11:55 am

Ramonade, I appreciate your feedback. I appreciate the confirmation that it is as easy to sharpen as I'd suspected.

I've had a thing for the Hawkbill for some time, I really like the finger choil. I don't get to use mine that much but have felt it is an awesome knife at an awesome price. I think I'll run down to the SFO and get my son one.

The Byrd hawkbill has the perfect arc and shallow serrations. When it's sharp, it really out performs all other hawkbills. It just doesn't have the same edge retention as premium steels, but it sure sharpens easy .

That really sums it up well. I am still a relative noob when it comes to sharpening serrations, and, while I can't really getting it paper slicing sharp, I can get it to where it slices things in the garden center easily. It really performs well in that environment. I so wish they'd make a PE Hawkbill. I have a Crossbill and hate the weight but love how well that blade performs and how easy it is to maintain. Sometime "good enough" steel is good enough!

If you don't mind the ~$100 price tag, a PE Tasman Salt would be a good PE hawkbill that's lightweight.