Spyderco Forums

The most common problem I see is not bringing the bevel all the way down and crossing over, this will hold folks back from getting a sharper edge in my experience.



Another problem is having too many inconsistent bevels on the bevel being sharpened.

(I'm not talking about microbevels/compound bevels, calm down)

It should just be one bevel whether flat or convex, blended seamlessly for maximum effectiveness.

Using a sharpie marker to mark the edge and see what's being hit on the stone is a great training aid.


Burr will be on the opposite side, that let's one know when they crossed over all the way.



If one runs their fingers perpendicular off the edge on the opposite side they can feel the burr, light touch is essential.

Burr should be made as small as possible, it will be removed later.





Burr can be observed at an angle and with bright light, the goal however it to "feel" it for speed and convenience. So don't use a light as a crutch, use it as a learning aid





Burr is removed with light touch, alternating passes, same angle.
There are some nuances and some more advanced discussion but that's for another thread. When just starting out just keep it as simple as possible.
K.I.S.S



Stropping enhances, it does not create.
The edge should already be sharp before moving to the strop for the best effect.

Burr should be removed/reduced on the stone not the strop.
Trying to strop a big, nasty burr only "rakes" the surface of the strop or straightens out the burr without removing it making a weaker, wispy burr edge










Demonstration





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Awesome!

Great guidance.

Good stuff. Love the humor too.

Excellent thread BBB!!!

Great post Shawn ! You give a lot to this community and its appreciated.

Good photos.

Yo edge looks like too many trips to the Bass Pro Shop "professional sharpener" on the ol' bench grinder, followed up with a few dozen passes on a Walmart pull-through Dullmaker.

Should be sticky-ed
What magnification is the first photo taken at?

I'm still at the "yo edge" level - I feel like I'm not hitting the apex, and raise it a degree or two, and next thing you know my edge has more facets than a Strider nightmare grind

Great explanation. After more than 1 week abroad, trying to sharpen my Meadowlark on the bottom of various cups, I can tell you it's not easy to keep the consistency needed for good results. I'm back home and in fact I'm sharpening / reprofiling my SE Salt 2 and first thing I got was the sharpie. The third portion on the edge, next to the point of the blade, wasn't being hit, and I could only observe that because of the sharpie. Now it's almost done (burr on 80% of the blade).

Edited to add: this should be

Awesome thread, thanks for sharing this info!

Thank you. No BS, just common sense.

Nothing but good advice in your post.

I like the emphasis on getting a crisp edge prior to getting out the strop. Some folks would be surprised how easy it is to get a shaving sharp apex off their reprofiling stone.

lol

Nice explanations.

Great stuff. Working the burr properly is so important!

Preach

I appreciate it. Excellent advice and guidance.

So good. Thanks, man!

Great thread.

vivi wrote: ↑

Tue Aug 24, 2021 3:00 pm

Nothing but good advice in your post.

I like the emphasis on getting a crisp edge prior to getting out the strop. Some folks would be surprised how easy it is to get a shaving sharp apex off their reprofiling stone.

FAR too many people use strops to "remove a burr" which may seem like it works and may give you a sharp edge but you'll see a significant difference in edge retention if you cut off the burr with stones and THEN strop. Same goes for "maintaining an edge" with a strop, you're just bending the teeth of the edge back straight which weakens the steel and promotes micro chipping and ruins edge retention. Diamond compounds may help but at some point you have to ask yourself what is a strop with diamond compound doing that a very high grit stone can't do?