Dealing with high humidity

[Josh Crutchley]

It's been a very humid week in the Great Lakes region where I live. I thought my knives where doing good, that is until today when I got out my Ukpk in BD1N. There's a small section on both sides that has red rust spots.

After finding that I decided to check my other knives and found my PM2 Maxamet with pitting and surface rust. I don't remember cutting anything corrosive, it's just a small area that looks like a smudge. This finding made me pull out my usb microscope to see how bad the pitting was.

I also checked out my other knives and found rust starting on my CTS-XHP Chap. The blade looks corrosion free to the naked eye but under the microscope you can see it starting.

I'm new to knife collecting so this is the first time its happened and I'm not sure what's the best course of action. I have a few different oils(vegtable,mineral,3in1,wd40,lansky honing oil) but nothing specifically for this. I would prefer it to be non-toxic/food safe so I don't have to clean it before use. Anyone have advice on rust prevention in humid climates?

[The Meat man]

I most often use mineral oil. Or sometimes Frog Lube.

[JonLeBlanc]

You might try Tuf-Glide; it works pretty well for me and I have a number of knives in very hot steels and I live in high-humidity as well.

[Danke]

I use Boeshield T-9 on all my carbon blades. Even ones I cut food with (but I do rinse and wipe the steel down for lint).

It's pretty good; developed by Boeing to protect steel hardware in the marine environment they're based in. Lot of boaters use it and popular on saw blades too.

[40mm]

Try some Salt series knives in H1 and say goodbye to rust.

[Josh Crutchley]

Try some Salt series knives in H1 and say goodbye to rust.

I've lived in this area for over 10yrs and I don't remember it being humid like this all the time so hopefully I don't need H-1.

[JRinFL]

I live in the very humid swamp known as Florida. I mostly use mineral oil or very occasionally use Aegis Solutions EDCi on my knives. Most stainless blades don't even get those anymore and I don't see that level of corrosion. I suspect you are like vivi with a higher than average corrosive level of perspiration.

A mix of mineral oil and beeswax is easy to make and easy to adjust for the proper consistency. It's food safe and protects very well.

[Josh Crutchley]

I live in the very humid swamp known as Florida. I mostly use mineral oil or very occasionally use Aegis Solutions EDCi on my knives. Most stainless blades don't even get those anymore and I don't see that level of corrosion. I suspect you are like vivi with a higher than average corrosive level of perspiration.

A mix of mineral oil and beeswax is easy to make and easy to adjust for the proper consistency. It's food safe and protects very well.

Never heard of using beeswax and mixing it with mineral oil, I'll have to give that a try. I may have more corrosive sweat but I've tried to wipe the blades down when ever I can and I don't use any rust prevention.

[PeaceInOurTime]

I'd also suggest a light coat of mineral oil. I've heard good reports of using Aegis Solutions EDCi.

This is why I love the Salt series. Even VG10 will rust in my sweaty pocket after a couple hours. H1 and LC200N don't even flinch at water or sweat. No need to coat the blade and internals with oil.

We're lucky to have Spyderco making the Salt series. I don't know of any other company making rust proof knives, especially of high quality.

[S-3 ranch]

CRC 3-36 , or fluid film, spray on let set then lightly wipe down with blue paper towel
Sweaty and maritime work with no problem ,

[atv223]

If you’re going to do any food prep, I’d stick with mineral oil. It’s cheap, readily available, food safe and does a fine job at rust prevention.

[vivi]

I used to live near the Lakes and I always carried salts this time of year even up there. For me extra sharpening H1 takes compared to whatever high edge retention super steel is cancelled out by not having to scrub rust off blades.

If you're lucky the blade is the only thing corroded. Once the liners etc. start to rust it's much worse to deal with.

[Vaugith]

Mineral oil works as long as there's a coating on the blade but when you cut enough or wipe it down a few times you're back to square one. 3 in 1 does better, but has a smell. Wd40 does worse and leaves a sticky residue. Frog lube works very well but does not play well with other oils/lubes. The application procedure is a PITA for folders. Dissasembly, heating while applying, let sit for 24 hours, then wipe down well. All before reassembly. Tuff glide failed on me more than once, won't use it again. 3 in 1 did better... The best by far has been EEZOX. Its got some nasty fumes but I personally absolutely do not use pocket knives, especially ones in tool steels, on food.

Some people use beeswax mixed with mineral oil with good results down in south Florida. Food safe. Worth a try.

[JRinFL]

Josh mentioned he would prefer food safe/non-toxic protection.

[standy99]

Found a forced patina on Maxamet with cranberry juice to be a great to stop any pitting.

I live in the tropics so have tried many a concoction. Use this on the Wharf at work

Cranberry juice is my go to now for forcing a patina.

[Josh Crutchley]

Found a forced patina on Maxamet with cranberry juice to be a great to stop any pitting.

I live in the tropics so have tried many a concoction. Use this on the Wharf at work

Cranberry juice is my go to now for forcing a patina.

The PM2 Maxamet had such a beautiful stonewash I didn't want to mess with it. I don't have much choice now so I might try it.

I also found some spotting on my Cara Cara 2 8cr13 so it seems like they're all getting it.

[Wandering_About]

In the situation of the OP... I'd probably just give in and get a Salt knife. I've been enjoying LC200N for days that involve a lot of dampness this year.

[Brock O Lee]

I coat blades, especially non-stainless ones, with a thin layer of Vaseline (essentially mineral oil) before I store them in a Pelican case with desiccant bags and they cope well.

I don’t mind patina from use, but I don’t want to see rust during storage.

[samdasnake]

I coat blades, especially non-stainless ones, with a thin layer of Vaseline (essentially mineral oil) before I store them in a Pelican case with desiccant bags and they cope well.

I don’t mind patina from use, but I don’t want to see rust during storage.

I second this. I did the same when I was living a block from the Pacific ocean. Keep coated in an airtight container with dessicant. You can make your own dessicant by baking Epsom salt fyi.

[Josh Crutchley]

In the situation of the OP... I'd probably just give in and get a Salt knife. I've been enjoying LC200N for days that involve a lot of dampness this year.

:eek: I love tool steels too much to give up on them. I wouldn't mind getting some of the rust proof steels especially Vanax and Lc200n.