question on ats 55
question on ats 55
Hi guys! Listen Ive been cruisin around alot of sites and ats 55 steel seem to be getting a bad rap. My SE delica is ats 55 and I adore it, never any rust,stays razor sharp with little maintenance, and it cuts like ****. Any input?
Sparky: ats 55 steel seem to be getting a bad rap. My SE delica is ats 55 and I adore it, never any rust,stays razor sharp with little maintenance, and it cuts like ****. Any input? >>>
I'm a simple guy. My knives are made of metal. They cut stuff. That's all I ask.
Some people think like I do, and that's fine; they're happy with their cutlery.
Some people make a hobby out of ultra-analyzing steel composition, etc., and that's fine, too. :-)
Sure, given the chance, I'd rather own the latest, cutting-edge (pun intended) steel, such as S30V. But honestly, if it's not that new super-steel, that's okay, too. The old stand-bys work well, in my humble opinion.
Sniper -- One Shot, One Kill Email: ST8PEN01@aol.com
I'm a simple guy. My knives are made of metal. They cut stuff. That's all I ask.
Some people think like I do, and that's fine; they're happy with their cutlery.
Some people make a hobby out of ultra-analyzing steel composition, etc., and that's fine, too. :-)
Sure, given the chance, I'd rather own the latest, cutting-edge (pun intended) steel, such as S30V. But honestly, if it's not that new super-steel, that's okay, too. The old stand-bys work well, in my humble opinion.
Sniper -- One Shot, One Kill Email: ST8PEN01@aol.com
I carried an ATS-55 CE Endura for a few months back in a time when I got to abuse knives hard and call it work. It was my weak side EDC and doubled as a dive knife in a pinch. I found it took a great edge, but didn't hold it as well as the other blades I carried(154CM, ATS34 and Talonite), and it wasn't as corrosion resistant as the ATS34/154CM blades. It was easy to resharpen, but I have yet to run into a steel that was really hard for the sharpmaker to put an edge on.
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dialex
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I had very good results with ATS-55. IMO is much better than ATS-34 everyone's praising. I have a Delica and a Copilot in ATS-55 and I am very pleased of the way it performes.
I was also wondering why people don't like it.
<a href="http://users.pcnet.ro/dialex"><font color=blue>(my page)</font></a>
I was also wondering why people don't like it.
<a href="http://users.pcnet.ro/dialex"><font color=blue>(my page)</font></a>
I have knives in ATS-34 (Strider MFS and Benchmade Stryker) and so far, it seems like a decent steel.
The ONLY knife that I own, that I have problems with, is the Benchmade in ATS-34; I just cannot seem to get a decent edge on this knife!!! I've used diamond hones, ceramic...you name it.
I have one in S30V so far (Strider WP), and thus far, it seems like a great steel, though I've not had a chance to cut much with it yet.
I also like Cold Steel's Carbon V. I can put and edge on that stuff like you can't imagine.
I guess what I'm trying to say here is that nearly every steel on the market these days is more or less acceptable. Most function for their intended purpose.
But alas, it's the same as with firearms; we all have our preferences & favorites.
Sniper -- One Shot, One Kill Email: ST8PEN01@aol.com
The ONLY knife that I own, that I have problems with, is the Benchmade in ATS-34; I just cannot seem to get a decent edge on this knife!!! I've used diamond hones, ceramic...you name it.
I have one in S30V so far (Strider WP), and thus far, it seems like a great steel, though I've not had a chance to cut much with it yet.
I also like Cold Steel's Carbon V. I can put and edge on that stuff like you can't imagine.
I guess what I'm trying to say here is that nearly every steel on the market these days is more or less acceptable. Most function for their intended purpose.
But alas, it's the same as with firearms; we all have our preferences & favorites.
Sniper -- One Shot, One Kill Email: ST8PEN01@aol.com
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sc_rebel1957
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Jim the edge on the Stryker models IMO are all ground too steep, which gives a tough as nails edge but 1 thats a devil to make shave hair, try back beveling the edge then using the 15 degree angle.
Back OT though I love ATS-55, It takes a good edge and keeps it as long as any on my other knives except the CPM440V.
Wierd that I live in a sub tropical area and yet I've never found 1 single sign of rust on any of those with ATS-55.
I swin in the ocean with my CE Endura clipped to my trunks or jean shorts all the time, when I get back to the campsite or hotel room I just use hot soapy water and a old tooth brush to clean it, and there have been times when I was unable to re lube the metal for several days.
I'm like the rest of yall it makes me mad to see some jaboo say the steel is no good or that it won't hold an edge, I suspect 90% of these people, either CAN'T sharpen a knife in the 1st place, or just love jumping on the NEW SUPER DUPER STEEL band wagon.
The only ATS-34 I've ever had that I couldn't make sharp was a CRKT Apache, I have <img src="spyder.gif" width=15 height=15 align=middle border=0>s and B/M s in ATS-34 and love them to death 154CM is just the American version. Ron
Back OT though I love ATS-55, It takes a good edge and keeps it as long as any on my other knives except the CPM440V.
Wierd that I live in a sub tropical area and yet I've never found 1 single sign of rust on any of those with ATS-55.
I swin in the ocean with my CE Endura clipped to my trunks or jean shorts all the time, when I get back to the campsite or hotel room I just use hot soapy water and a old tooth brush to clean it, and there have been times when I was unable to re lube the metal for several days.
I'm like the rest of yall it makes me mad to see some jaboo say the steel is no good or that it won't hold an edge, I suspect 90% of these people, either CAN'T sharpen a knife in the 1st place, or just love jumping on the NEW SUPER DUPER STEEL band wagon.
The only ATS-34 I've ever had that I couldn't make sharp was a CRKT Apache, I have <img src="spyder.gif" width=15 height=15 align=middle border=0>s and B/M s in ATS-34 and love them to death 154CM is just the American version. Ron
Ron: Jim the edge on the Stryker models IMO are all ground too steep, which gives a tough as nails edge but 1 thats a devil to make shave hair, try back beveling the edge then using the 15 degree angle.>>>
Ron, I don't have any experience "back bevelling". Could you possibly explain the process here so I could try it?
The grind on my Strider MFS is flat grind, and it really does have an incredible edge; very, very sharp (cut myself with it yesterday, in fact).
The grind on my Strider WP is hollow ground, so it, too, has a pretty decent edge, even though the knife is a full 1/4" thick.
Ron: I'm like the rest of yall it makes me mad to see some jaboo say the steel is no good or that it won't hold an edge, I suspect 90% of these people, either CAN'T sharpen a knife in the 1st place, or just love jumping on the NEW SUPER DUPER STEEL band wagon.>>>
Yes, Ron, I think you hit it on the head with your assessment. Often, I suspect that knife people (just like everyone else) are trying to keep up with the Jones's to have the newest steel on the block.
To make themselves feel better, they talk down about those "old, decrepid, ancient, out-dated" steels.
There are plenty of older steels that will still be cutting just fine fifty years from now when our kids have those same knives.
Ron: The only ATS-34 I've ever had that I couldn't make sharp was a CRKT Apache, I have s and B/M s in ATS-34 and love them to death 154CM is just the American version. Ron >>>
I just don't know what it is with my Benchmade Stryker that I can't get a shaving edge with the knife. Sure, I can put an edge on it, but not like all of my other knives. And it's a very good quality knife, too, it's not like it's junk.
I have an Emerson CQC-7 in 154CM. I've never sharpened it because I've never really cut anything with it; it's sole purpose is to ride in my right/front pants pocket in case I have a social engagement in which communications have broken down beyond repair.
Sniper -- One Shot, One Kill Email: ST8PEN01@aol.com
Ron, I don't have any experience "back bevelling". Could you possibly explain the process here so I could try it?
The grind on my Strider MFS is flat grind, and it really does have an incredible edge; very, very sharp (cut myself with it yesterday, in fact).
The grind on my Strider WP is hollow ground, so it, too, has a pretty decent edge, even though the knife is a full 1/4" thick.
Ron: I'm like the rest of yall it makes me mad to see some jaboo say the steel is no good or that it won't hold an edge, I suspect 90% of these people, either CAN'T sharpen a knife in the 1st place, or just love jumping on the NEW SUPER DUPER STEEL band wagon.>>>
Yes, Ron, I think you hit it on the head with your assessment. Often, I suspect that knife people (just like everyone else) are trying to keep up with the Jones's to have the newest steel on the block.
To make themselves feel better, they talk down about those "old, decrepid, ancient, out-dated" steels.
There are plenty of older steels that will still be cutting just fine fifty years from now when our kids have those same knives.
Ron: The only ATS-34 I've ever had that I couldn't make sharp was a CRKT Apache, I have s and B/M s in ATS-34 and love them to death 154CM is just the American version. Ron >>>
I just don't know what it is with my Benchmade Stryker that I can't get a shaving edge with the knife. Sure, I can put an edge on it, but not like all of my other knives. And it's a very good quality knife, too, it's not like it's junk.
I have an Emerson CQC-7 in 154CM. I've never sharpened it because I've never really cut anything with it; it's sole purpose is to ride in my right/front pants pocket in case I have a social engagement in which communications have broken down beyond repair.
Sniper -- One Shot, One Kill Email: ST8PEN01@aol.com
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Sword and Shield
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Backbeveling involves thinning the bevel by stripping off the shoulders above it. Typically, you want your sharpening technique to lay the stone right on the bevel. With backbeveling, you want to work above the bevel, right where the grind line for the edge and grind of the face of the blade meet.
If you have a 204, it's easy to do. Simply sharpen your knife at 30* instead of 40*, until the sharp shoulder is gone.
There's a classic trick to tell where your sharpening hits. Simply color the bevel with a marker, and take a few strokes. If your sharpening pulls off marker only at the very edge, your angle is too obtuse. If it pulls off along the bevel entirely, your angle and the edge angle match. Ordinarily, this is what you want.
Not with backbeveling. With backbeveling, you want to pull off marker at the top edge of the bevel, so you're cutting in a thinner edge.
The Man's Prayer- I am a man. But I can change. If I have to. I guess...
If you have a 204, it's easy to do. Simply sharpen your knife at 30* instead of 40*, until the sharp shoulder is gone.
There's a classic trick to tell where your sharpening hits. Simply color the bevel with a marker, and take a few strokes. If your sharpening pulls off marker only at the very edge, your angle is too obtuse. If it pulls off along the bevel entirely, your angle and the edge angle match. Ordinarily, this is what you want.
Not with backbeveling. With backbeveling, you want to pull off marker at the top edge of the bevel, so you're cutting in a thinner edge.
The Man's Prayer- I am a man. But I can change. If I have to. I guess...
Thanks for the back beveling tips.
I honestly don't feel confident to try it myself.
I'm satisfied enough with the edges on my Striders to leave them as they are.
As Ron said before, most of the knives in the Strider line are built for durability rather than finesse, which is precisely why I bought them.
If I want fine precision, a knife that opens smooth as glass, with an ultra-sharp blade, then I reach for my Spydercos.
When I want a brutal, ugly (read that as beautiful), neanderthal piece of steel that will slay a dinosaur, then I grab the Striders.
I truly enjoy having different knives for different purposes.
Out of all the knives I own, my absolutely smoothest-opening folder is still my Spyderco FRN Native. It opens with no effort, and locks open with such a satisfying, secure, little "click"; I sometimes open it several times just to hear/feel it.
Once again, I've raved for too long....
Sniper -- One Shot, One Kill Email: ST8PEN01@aol.com
I honestly don't feel confident to try it myself.
I'm satisfied enough with the edges on my Striders to leave them as they are.
As Ron said before, most of the knives in the Strider line are built for durability rather than finesse, which is precisely why I bought them.
If I want fine precision, a knife that opens smooth as glass, with an ultra-sharp blade, then I reach for my Spydercos.
When I want a brutal, ugly (read that as beautiful), neanderthal piece of steel that will slay a dinosaur, then I grab the Striders.
I truly enjoy having different knives for different purposes.
Out of all the knives I own, my absolutely smoothest-opening folder is still my Spyderco FRN Native. It opens with no effort, and locks open with such a satisfying, secure, little "click"; I sometimes open it several times just to hear/feel it.
Once again, I've raved for too long....
Sniper -- One Shot, One Kill Email: ST8PEN01@aol.com
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vampyrewolf
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I hate to say it, but I think the best knife spyderco has put out that I've got so far, is the stainless dragonfly.
shape on it is far from offending to anyone, even getting compliments on it, great shape for folks used to traditionals, 2.25" blade is legal everywhere(sans 1 hand & lock laws as in the UK and Australia, but length is legal).
Been beating on mine for 2 yrs, handles are marked up all to ****(despite polishing once in a while), lock is silky smooth, and there's no movement to be found. This sucker is on me 24/7 unless I'm swimming or in the shower.
45usd online, more than cheap enough for anyone to own at least 1 of... and only ats-55 steel.
I've redone my edge a few times(grits, convex[hit staples and stay sharp], re-flattened, thinned to about 30[abused the **** out of and it stayed sharp], thinned to about 20(or less)[stayed sharp with a strop beginning week 3 on my jeans, made it a month], thinned to the flats(11.5-12deg inclusive)... and holding so far. 5-10min to redo the edge each time[other than the convex].
Mei Fides, Mei Victus <a href=http://www.members.shaw.ca/pjharyett>My Homepage </a>
shape on it is far from offending to anyone, even getting compliments on it, great shape for folks used to traditionals, 2.25" blade is legal everywhere(sans 1 hand & lock laws as in the UK and Australia, but length is legal).
Been beating on mine for 2 yrs, handles are marked up all to ****(despite polishing once in a while), lock is silky smooth, and there's no movement to be found. This sucker is on me 24/7 unless I'm swimming or in the shower.
45usd online, more than cheap enough for anyone to own at least 1 of... and only ats-55 steel.
I've redone my edge a few times(grits, convex[hit staples and stay sharp], re-flattened, thinned to about 30[abused the **** out of and it stayed sharp], thinned to about 20(or less)[stayed sharp with a strop beginning week 3 on my jeans, made it a month], thinned to the flats(11.5-12deg inclusive)... and holding so far. 5-10min to redo the edge each time[other than the convex].
Mei Fides, Mei Victus <a href=http://www.members.shaw.ca/pjharyett>My Homepage </a>