Does S110V actually chip a lot or are people just not using their knives right?
Does S110V actually chip a lot or are people just not using their knives right?
I had a Manix 2 LW in S110V and it seemed fine. Are people really having issues with it?
Re: Does S110V actually chip a lot or are people just not using their knives right?
Maybe, but I think it's more down to damage occurring on the factory edge (good reason to sharpen a new knife) or trouble with burr removal, resulting in edge damage.
Chipping an edge on zip ties is mostly due to technique. Beyond that, I can't think of many things an average knife user would need to cut on a regular basis, that S110V would have issues with.
Chipping an edge on zip ties is mostly due to technique. Beyond that, I can't think of many things an average knife user would need to cut on a regular basis, that S110V would have issues with.
Re: Does S110V actually chip a lot or are people just not using their knives right?
The only time I chipped my S110v PM2 was cutting some threads wound around a HSS drill bit.
Also, the factory edge on any production knife will be slightly more brittle/ prone to edge damage because of overheating from sharpening. After one or two sharpening sessions the edge will become a lot more stable.
Also, the factory edge on any production knife will be slightly more brittle/ prone to edge damage because of overheating from sharpening. After one or two sharpening sessions the edge will become a lot more stable.
Justin :spyder:
Re: Does S110V actually chip a lot or are people just not using their knives right?
I can’t remember ever chipping s110v. I have chipped Vtoku2 and LC200N tho.
Re: Does S110V actually chip a lot or are people just not using their knives right?
Never had any chipping issues with any of my S110V knives even when they were new. Come to think of it I've never had chipping issues with any steel
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Re: Does S110V actually chip a lot or are people just not using their knives right?
I never had a chipping issue with S110V, until I did.
When it did happen, it was a large one. It's a fine steel, but you have to be mindful of just how you are applying pressure to the edge. A small mistake can lead to a mind numbing repair.
I personally have no desire to use it anymore, as I have come to value ease of sharpening and toughness, over edge retention.
LC200N and VG-10 are what I prefer. I have also had good experiences with PSF27. My wife has thrashed the Junction, it's one of her favorite knives in the kitchen.
When it did happen, it was a large one. It's a fine steel, but you have to be mindful of just how you are applying pressure to the edge. A small mistake can lead to a mind numbing repair.
I personally have no desire to use it anymore, as I have come to value ease of sharpening and toughness, over edge retention.
LC200N and VG-10 are what I prefer. I have also had good experiences with PSF27. My wife has thrashed the Junction, it's one of her favorite knives in the kitchen.
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Re: Does S110V actually chip a lot or are people just not using their knives right?
Just got my first S110V knife a couple weeks ago (Native 5 LW). Been carrying it everyday since. Cut a few zipties with it, and there was no damage whatsoever. Only damage that occurred was when my fiancee used it to cut some cheese, blade slipped and hit the granite counter quite hard. And that just caused a minor roll, no chipping.
It's also been very easy to sharpen. Deburrs easily too.
It's also been very easy to sharpen. Deburrs easily too.
Re: Does S110V actually chip a lot or are people just not using their knives right?
It'll chip before it rolls and burrs will break off if you leave one after sharpening.
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~David
~David
Re: Does S110V actually chip a lot or are people just not using their knives right?
Hi Plshelpme,
Welcome to our forum.
sal
Welcome to our forum.
sal
Re: Does S110V actually chip a lot or are people just not using their knives right?
I own several Spydercos in S110V and I have not yet chipped the edge on any of them. The main knife I use for chores and yard work is an S110V Manix 2, which gets used pretty hard but has never had a chip. I'm mainly cutting things like wood, rope, and zip-ties, though (not staple-ridden cardboard boxes). I did push-cut about a dozen small saplings the other day with no edge damage (and it was still shaving sharp). I also like S110V's rust-resistance for sweaty summertime work.
I never really trust a blade steel until I've sharpened it a few times myself. Belt-ground factory edges are often inconsistent, both in terms of the grind angle (due to free-hand sharpening) and the heat treat (due to overheated edges). I've even seen this problem on $400+ knives from mid-tech knife-makers (who shall remain nameless to maximize shiny footprints :) ).
I never really trust a blade steel until I've sharpened it a few times myself. Belt-ground factory edges are often inconsistent, both in terms of the grind angle (due to free-hand sharpening) and the heat treat (due to overheated edges). I've even seen this problem on $400+ knives from mid-tech knife-makers (who shall remain nameless to maximize shiny footprints :) ).
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Re: Does S110V actually chip a lot or are people just not using their knives right?
I still own a far share and have tested many knives in S110V and never saw one chip personally.
Wasn't exactly careful with them either while testing..
Wasn't exactly careful with them either while testing..
Re: Does S110V actually chip a lot or are people just not using their knives right?
S110V hasn’t chipped in my experience. I have it in a Native5 and PM2, both users.
Nor have I heard such complaints.
What I have heard (but do not know from experience) is that a chip in S110V is very difficult to repair, which is a different complaint.
BTW, you can use a knife correctly and still damage the edge. Things happen.
Nor have I heard such complaints.
What I have heard (but do not know from experience) is that a chip in S110V is very difficult to repair, which is a different complaint.
BTW, you can use a knife correctly and still damage the edge. Things happen.
-Marc (pocketing an S30V Military2 today)
“When science changes its opinion, it didn’t lie to you. It learned more.”
“When science changes its opinion, it didn’t lie to you. It learned more.”
Re: Does S110V actually chip a lot or are people just not using their knives right?
wrdwrght wrote: ↑Tue Aug 11, 2020 2:11 pmS110V hasn’t chipped in my experience. I have it in a Native5 and PM2, both users.
Nor have I heard such complaints.
What I have heard (but do not know from experience) is that a chip in S110V is very difficult to repair, which is a different complaint.
BTW, you can use a knife correctly and still damage the edge. Things happen.
I like to use this as an example...
People can use a circular saw to cut a bunch of boards that have nails all through them..... But they shouldn't...
But they will damage the carbide toothed blade and likely will have to buy a new blade or have it repaired.
Human nature is what it is in the end....
Re: Does S110V actually chip a lot or are people just not using their knives right?
The harder the steel, the more brittle it is, which means the easier it will chip. Give and take. The advantage is that under certain conditions you can harness the wear resistance and make the steel useful, but there is equally a downside, chipping being one. S110V and ZDP-189 can chip just by using too much pressure when sharpening them on a hard bond abrasive, and I mean visibly chip to the naked eye. Then there is "microchipping."
Keep your s110v manix at or below the brown medium ceramic. Hard abrasives beyond that don't respond well. You can try using waterstones with these steels to help combat the brittleness. Cliff Stamp advocated such and did some videos with ultra high carbide steels and waterstones, they're still on youtube.
Re: Does S110V actually chip a lot or are people just not using their knives right?
I’ve used my S110V Manix LW a lot at work, and only chipped it once. I don’t know how I did it, but it’s not a big deal. The chip is 1/2” from the tip and I’ll let regular sharpening remove it over time. It was 1/32” and Is already smaller now. Given how hard I’ve used that knife, I don’t consider S110V to be chippy at all. It has been very forgiving.
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Re: Does S110V actually chip a lot or are people just not using their knives right?
I think that is being a little too simplistic.JohnDoe99 wrote: ↑Tue Aug 11, 2020 7:09 pmThe harder the steel, the more brittle it is, which means the easier it will chip. Give and take. The advantage is that under certain conditions you can harness the wear resistance and make the steel useful, but there is equally a downside, chipping being one. S110V and ZDP-189 can chip just by using too much pressure when sharpening them on a hard bond abrasive, and I mean visibly chip to the naked eye. Then there is "microchipping."
...
The OP question is about CPM S110V which is generally run less hard than say Maxamet, K390, or CPM REX 45, and yet the harder steels (I have found) all can take fully as much or more abuse than CPM S110V without edge problems. I have owned and used all 4 steels and that's been my experience anyway.
There are just so many variables, I don't think you can just say that harder=more brittle, even as a generalized statement.
- Connor
"What is a man profited, if he shall gain the whole world, and lose his own soul?"
"What is a man profited, if he shall gain the whole world, and lose his own soul?"
Re: Does S110V actually chip a lot or are people just not using their knives right?
My manix 2 lw chipped under what I considered pretty light use with the factor edge. After sharpening it I haven’t had any issues. I had the same experience with my ZDP dragonfly. I honestly can’t say either knife sees real hard use but in the types of cutting I do with a folding lw knife I haven’t had issues since resharpening.
Re: Does S110V actually chip a lot or are people just not using their knives right?
Properly heat treated S110V doesn't chip any easier than S90V, of which you have people say it feels tougher but it's no different. The first runs were reported to have some problems, but even then it could have been just the factory edge at fault causing people to report on it and then the word of mouth made it worse than it actually was (I had that issue, but after one sharpening I had no issues whatsoever, and I didn't baby it). I've encountered ppl bad mouthing the steel, but they never owned or used it, they said they just heard about it being chippy..
Re: Does S110V actually chip a lot or are people just not using their knives right?
I’ve had occasional chipping, though not more than other steels with similar carbide volumes and hrc. S110v is the only steel I’ve had a knife snap in half from a 2’ drop onto concrete when the knife was closed and didn’t land on the blade, though. Happened with a blurple manix 2.
BRING ON THE MANIX XL SPRINTS AND EXCLUSIVES! And 10v or K390ify the Golden lineup, please.
Top 5 folders I’ve owned: Serrated Caribbean Leaf, Shaman, Manix XL, ZDP-189/CF Caly 3.5, Native LW.
Top 5 steels I’ve owned: LC200N, K390, CPM S90V, M390, CPM REX45.
Top 3 steels I want more of: M390 class, A11 class (including K390), CPM REX45.
Top 5 folders I’ve owned: Serrated Caribbean Leaf, Shaman, Manix XL, ZDP-189/CF Caly 3.5, Native LW.
Top 5 steels I’ve owned: LC200N, K390, CPM S90V, M390, CPM REX45.
Top 3 steels I want more of: M390 class, A11 class (including K390), CPM REX45.
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Re: Does S110V actually chip a lot or are people just not using their knives right?
Based on your last thread of only fidgeting/cutting tape, I wouldn't worry about chipping. I also wouldn't bother with S110V.
So many knives, so few pockets... :)
-Nick
Last in: N5 Magnacut
The "Spirit" of the design does not come through unless used. -Sal
-Nick
Last in: N5 Magnacut
The "Spirit" of the design does not come through unless used. -Sal