Spyderco Forums

Hello,
one of my customers asked me to repair his BRADLEY FOLDER™ 2 CARBON FIBER
What would you suggest for repair so we shape of blase is as close to original as possible?Is there blueprint available which I could print out and used to recreate the original shape?
I have all tools needed and also skills. Many thanks in advance. Tomas

@admins- sorry I created 2 same topics- 1st one without picture.If you will agree to post one of them, then please this one with picture link. thanks

Hi Torr,

Welcome to our forum.

sal

Can the blade be replaced without any modifications?

I mean, you could print a picture of the original Bradley folder, cut out the shape of the knife, then just scoot it back a bit?

The biggest concern is definitely that you don't want the tip to be exposed when folded.

Perhaps you could just bring the edge up a bit to meet the spine? Or bring the spine down to the edge creating a reverse-tanto point.

I would try to do something along the lines of this

Hey, Tomas.
I think I'd start grinding the spine just behind the swedge, then curve it down steeper and steeper as I approached the tip. I'm envisioning somewhat of a leaf shape toward the front. If it looks a little weird, I might blend it back toward the insignia. I think it could end up looking ok.

Daaang! What was he prying out, framing nails?

That's nasty.

For real... how the heck did that happen? I did some gnarly demo work with the OG GB1 and it shrugged it off

I would probably do something like this.

jpm2 wrote: ↑

Mon May 25, 2020 2:08 pm

I would probably do something like this.

That definitely looks nicer than what I posted.

One possible issue however, with it being hollow grind, the tip area might be significantly thicker behind the edge than the rest of the blade

Holland wrote: ↑

Mon May 25, 2020 3:25 pm

jpm2 wrote: ↑

Mon May 25, 2020 2:08 pm

I would probably do something like this.

That definitely looks nicer than what I posted.

One possible issue however, with it being hollow grind, the tip area might be significantly thicker behind the edge than the rest of the blade

This would be my worry. If you bring the edge up at all, it’s gonna end up being significantly thicker and the edge is gonna end up looking really odd at the tip. I’d just bring the spine down to the edge somehow rather than bringing the edge up at all, that’ll also prevent any issues with the edge ending up above the scales when closed.

How bout this?

Ez556 wrote: ↑

Mon May 25, 2020 3:44 pm

Holland wrote: ↑

Mon May 25, 2020 3:25 pm

jpm2 wrote: ↑

Mon May 25, 2020 2:08 pm

I would probably do something like this.

That definitely looks nicer than what I posted.

One possible issue however, with it being hollow grind, the tip area might be significantly thicker behind the edge than the rest of the blade

This would be my worry. If you bring the edge up at all, it’s gonna end up being significantly thicker and the edge is gonna end up looking really odd at the tip. I’d just bring the spine down to the edge somehow rather than bringing the edge up at all, that’ll also prevent any issues with the edge ending up above the scales when closed.

I'm not sure that tip placement isn't much different from the original, which would make it the same thickness.
I don't have a GB2, anyone post an image for comparison?

You mention one of your customers. Charge him double so he learns.

Being an ex-butcher I get several of these a year to fix and I always remove spine only.

Holland wrote: ↑

Mon May 25, 2020 3:25 pm

One possible issue however, with it being hollow grind, the tip area might be significantly thicker behind the edge than the rest of the blade

The rare Gayle Bradley Double Bevel.

If you keep the tip on the same plane as the original, it should be the same thickness.
As an example, here's a GB1 chopped on both ends with the tip on about the same plane. Blade is additionally thinned and tapered, overall resulting in a much thinner tip.

thank you for letting me in:-)

sal wrote: ↑

Mon May 25, 2020 9:22 am

Hi Torr,

Welcome to our forum.

sal

Hello all,
sorry that Im replying only now- time zone difference.
Thank you very much for all replies-to everyone of you-I would send thanks per each but it seems every reply needs to be approved by admin and I do not want to make him extra work:-)

Im very glad I could join this group of experienced people who are eager to help.I think it is good idea to go what Mr.Holland and Mt. jpm2 proposed.If needed I will thinner tip and may be polish it so it has satin finish-respectively as close as to original.

If there is somewhere available blueprint of original shape 1:1 so I could print it and put on blade, it would help as well.

thanks again.
Tomas

I don't think you will get a blueprint - maybe print it out and scale accordingly from a photo?