Spyderco Forums

Title says it.

As far as I am aware of (correct me if I´m wrong), the current (ffg!) Manix 2 does not come in fully serrated, but just in PE and (some models) CE.

Now a fully serrated Manix would make me buy another one in a heartbeat, in my case a lightweigt. Its tall, thin blade combined with a rather non-aggressive Spyderedge (like in Endela SE or Delica wharnie SE) would make for an amazing cutter!

Anyone else? You can choose two options in the poll, so vote for a G10 SE AND LW SE Manix if you want to see both.

EDITED for more clarity

Funny, I was actually thinking it was weird that there was no full SE option for the Manix a few days ago. A lightweight SE would probably be my preference, but I voted for both lightweight and G10 options :D

Wartstein wrote: ↑

Mon Apr 13, 2020 12:26 am

Title says it.

As far as I am aware of (correct me if I´m wrong), the current (ffg!) Manix 2 does not come in fully serrated, but just in PE and (some models) CE.

Now a fully serrated Manix would make me buy another one in a heartbeat, in my case a lightweigt. Its tall, thin blade combined with a "modern" non-aggressive Spyderedge would make for an amazing cutter!

Anyone else? You can choose two options in the poll, so vote for a G10 SE AND LW SE Manix if you want to see both.

What exactly do you mean by that? I don't think Spyderco is going to change serration patterns anytime soon if that's what you're thinking.

If I could get a full SE/FFG blade I'd probably swap it out into my custom handle. I'm not sure it would replace my Caribbean but I'd definitely carry it more than I do now (which is basically never).

The Meat man wrote: ↑

Mon Apr 13, 2020 6:17 am

Wartstein wrote: ↑

Mon Apr 13, 2020 12:26 am

Title says it.

As far as I am aware of (correct me if I´m wrong), the current (ffg!) Manix 2 does not come in fully serrated, but just in PE and (some models) CE.

Now a fully serrated Manix would make me buy another one in a heartbeat, in my case a lightweigt. Its tall, thin blade combined with a "modern" non-aggressive Spyderedge would make for an amazing cutter!

Anyone else? You can choose two options in the poll, so vote for a G10 SE AND LW SE Manix if you want to see both.

What exactly do you mean by that? I don't think Spyderco is going to change serration patterns anytime soon if that's what you're thinking.

Thanks for pointing out that this term might be unclear!
What I mean: As far as I can tell the serrations in the more recent SE models ARE already less "aggressive" (shallower, less pointy...) than let's say an old Millie SE

Wartstein wrote: ↑

Mon Apr 13, 2020 8:43 am

The Meat man wrote: ↑

Mon Apr 13, 2020 6:17 am

Wartstein wrote: ↑

Mon Apr 13, 2020 12:26 am

Title says it.

As far as I am aware of (correct me if I´m wrong), the current (ffg!) Manix 2 does not come in fully serrated, but just in PE and (some models) CE.

Now a fully serrated Manix would make me buy another one in a heartbeat, in my case a lightweigt. Its tall, thin blade combined with a "modern" non-aggressive Spyderedge would make for an amazing cutter!

Anyone else? You can choose two options in the poll, so vote for a G10 SE AND LW SE Manix if you want to see both.

What exactly do you mean by that? I don't think Spyderco is going to change serration patterns anytime soon if that's what you're thinking.

Thanks for pointing out that this term might be unclear!
What I mean: As far as I can tell the serrations in the more recent SE models ARE already less "aggressive" (shallower, less pointy...) than let's say an old Millie SE

I understand exactly what you’re talking about, Warstein, and I share your preference. Although I’m not personally interested in the LWT version, the G10 Manix 2 is one of my favorite Spyderco knives. A full SE FFG version would be great.

Jim

Wartstein wrote: ↑

Mon Apr 13, 2020 8:43 am

The Meat man wrote: ↑

Mon Apr 13, 2020 6:17 am

Wartstein wrote: ↑

Mon Apr 13, 2020 12:26 am

Title says it.

As far as I am aware of (correct me if I´m wrong), the current (ffg!) Manix 2 does not come in fully serrated, but just in PE and (some models) CE.

Now a fully serrated Manix would make me buy another one in a heartbeat, in my case a lightweigt. Its tall, thin blade combined with a "modern" non-aggressive Spyderedge would make for an amazing cutter!

Anyone else? You can choose two options in the poll, so vote for a G10 SE AND LW SE Manix if you want to see both.

What exactly do you mean by that? I don't think Spyderco is going to change serration patterns anytime soon if that's what you're thinking.

Thanks for pointing out that this term might be unclear!
What I mean: As far as I can tell the serrations in the more recent SE models ARE already less "aggressive" (shallower, less pointy...) than let's say an old Millie SE

I see what you mean. Yeah those older Millies were pretty toothy!
If you want shallower serrations though, check out the Byrd line. They're the best IMO.

I used to really want a SE Manix 2 until I chipped one of the teeth on my CE. I find that the Manix 2 is my go-to knife for tougher jobs and as much as I love SE for a utility folder it has its limitations. Those teeth are rather weak.

zhyla wrote: ↑

Mon Apr 13, 2020 10:32 am

I used to really want a SE Manix 2 until I chipped one of the teeth on my CE. I find that the Manix 2 is my go-to knife for tougher jobs and as much as I love SE for a utility folder it has its limitations. Those teeth are rather weak.

That´s surprising... which steel does your CE Manix have?! S30V?

No such problems with my VG10 Endela SE (ffg, 3mm stock) whatsoever, even in hard use
H1 SE is uber-though anyway
And if you read Davids ongoing thread about all the things he puts his Caribbean SE through, LC200N also seems to be almost indestructible in SE...

I got a CE manix 2 when I realized there was no SE version currently in production, so I'd definitely be interested in a fully SE version (I prefer g10, though). Serrations are great for a lot of the tasks I use the manix for at the horse barn: cutting baling twine, opening heavy duty feed bags, cutting off wound dressings with multiple layers of vet wrap, gauze, and gorilla tape, occasionally cutting leather ties or rope, etc. The CE has been great, but I'd really like a fully SE.

What about an H-1 SE Manix Salt LW? Would the CBBL be able to get "salty" or are their limitations imposed by the lock mechanism?

It been suggested before but we need a Salt Manix so if it’s going to be SE let’s make LC200

rybu0305 wrote: ↑

Mon Apr 13, 2020 3:17 pm

It been suggested before but we need a Salt Manix so if it’s going to be SE let’s make LC200

Sure. As long as it also comes in full SE...

Not for me, thanks.

I’m especially fond of the Manix (original and 2, mini and XL) and can’t envision how a Spyderedge would improve it.

I don’t dislike SE, just prefer it in Salts (especially H1) and Assists where less-than-precise tearing may actually be called for.

wrdwrght wrote: ↑

Mon Apr 13, 2020 4:44 pm

Not for me, thanks.

I’m especially fond of the Manix (original and 2, mini and XL) and can’t envision how a Spyderedge would improve it.

I don’t dislike SE, just prefer it in Salts (especially H1) and Assists where less-than-precise tearing may actually be called for.

No offense, but I can´t imagine that you actually ever used a properly sharpened Spyderedge in a thin ffg blade... (like the Manix blade is)
It´s capable of a LOT more than "less than precise tearing " (??), in fact it can do everything PE can (for example easily precise paper cutting) and in many cases even better (due to the very acute angle of the chisel grind in the scallops)...

You don´t have to take my word on this, there are several a LOT more experienced knife users here that feel the same. Among them a certain Sal Glesser I think... :rolleyes:

Anyway, especially the Manix with its thin, tall blade would definitely be improved by a serrated edge.. not for all, but sure for many.

Wartstein wrote: ↑

Mon Apr 13, 2020 10:41 am

That´s surprising... which steel does your CE Manix have?! S30V?

No such problems with my VG10 Endela SE (ffg, 3mm stock) whatsoever, even in hard use
H1 SE is uber-though anyway
And if you read Davids ongoing thread about all the things he puts his Caribbean SE through, LC200N also seems to be almost indestructible in SE...

Mine are both 154CM. I had to break down some wood into kindling in a pinch. Might have hit a nail or experienced some lateral force.

SE teeth are much like the tip of a knife -- they're more fragile than a continuous edge.

I would love to see a full serrated Manix2 lightweight.
The Manix2 is one of the best designs IMO and having a one with a full Spydie-edge would be great.

I mostly carry plain edges but I do like serrated blades.
Just about everything new I like design wise comes with a plain blade.

Wartstein wrote: ↑

Mon Apr 13, 2020 6:02 pm

No offense, but I can´t imagine that you actually ever used a properly sharpened Spyderedge in a thin ffg blade... (like the Manix blade is)
It´s capable of a LOT more than "less than precise tearing " (??), in fact it can do everything PE can (for example easily precise paper cutting) and in many cases even better

I DID NOT say SE cannot make precise cuts.

I know very well SE can. I have some seven-year-old edges (SE Pacific and Atlantic Salts among them) that have proven their precision. I simply don’t care for the feel of SE in the stuff I usually cut.

What I DID say (if not exactly) is that SE may be better for situations where a PE could accidentally (and dangerously) slip on material needing to be cut: fibrous ornamental grasses, for instance, or more significantly, a jammed belay line on a technical climb, or a fouled sheet on a sailboat.

SE offers many grabby and rippy points, and its scallops increase the cutting edge’s length so that one slash or yank might get through material, where PE, especially with an edge past peak-sharpness, might require several assiduous slices for which there might be no time.

As I said, I prefer the latter’s cutting feel to the former, but in emergencies, the latter’s ability to go extreme overrides my preferred feel.

FWIW, I swap my primary Spydie whenever the spirit moves, but I always carry my Manbug Salt, and if I’m out for the day, my satchel carries an Enuff Salt. And in the vehicle I’m driving, I have a VG10 Assist. I don’t climb or sail anymore, but my canoeing PFD holds a Pacific Salt. My substantial gardens now only see my SE Spyderhawk and SE Tasman Salts.

You are, of course, free to imagine what you want. But if you’re going to run a poll, you probably ought not include an answer that will bother you.

wrdwrght wrote: ↑

Mon Apr 13, 2020 8:53 pm

Wartstein wrote: ↑

Mon Apr 13, 2020 6:02 pm

No offense, but I can´t imagine that you actually ever used a properly sharpened Spyderedge in a thin ffg blade... (like the Manix blade is)
It´s capable of a LOT more than "less than precise tearing " (??), in fact it can do everything PE can (for example easily precise paper cutting) and in many cases even better

I DID NOT say SE cannot make precise cuts.

I know very well SE can. I have some seven-year-old edges (SE Pacific and Atlantic Salts among them) that have proven their precision. I simply don’t care for the feel of SE in the stuff I usually cut.

What I DID say (if not exactly) is that SE may be better for situations where a PE could accidentally (and dangerously) slip on material needing to be cut: fibrous ornamental grasses, for instance, or more significantly, a jammed belay line on a technical climb, or a fouled sheet on a sailboat.

SE offers many grabby and rippy points, and its scallops increase the cutting edge’s length so that one slash or yank might get through material, where PE, especially with an edge past peak-sharpness, might require several assiduous slices for which there might be no time.

As I said, I prefer the latter’s cutting feel to the former, but in emergencies, the latter’s ability to go extreme overrides my preferred feel.

FWIW, I swap my primary Spydie whenever the spirit moves, but I always carry my Manbug Salt, and if I’m out for the day, my satchel carries an Enuff Salt. And in the vehicle I’m driving, I have a VG10 Assist. I don’t climb or sail anymore, but my canoeing PFD holds a Pacific Salt. My substantial gardens now only see my SE Spyderhawk and SE Tasman Salts.

You are, of course, free to imagine what you want. But if you’re going to run a poll, you probably ought not include an answer that will bother you.

I apologize if I got you wrong and as said in my post it was not my intention to offend you by any means (sidestep: Not meant as an excuse, and I don´t know if true in this case, but sometimes I think that certain terms that in German (my mothertongue) are totally harmless, might perhaps sound somewhat offensive when translated to English and vice versa...)

What you said was (quote):

"I’m especially fond of the Manix (original and 2, mini and XL) and can’t envision how a Spyderedge would improve it.
I don’t dislike SE, just prefer it in Salts (especially H1) and Assists where less-than-precise tearing may actually be called for."

I took that as if you´d think serrations are mainly good for "just" tearing and worse at precise cutting (due to your term "less than precise tearing"), and that would have not matched my experience that SE can do very precise and very fine cuts due to the acute angled, chisel grind scallops that furthermore not only "apply pressure from above" when cutting, but due to their arc from different angles.

But you explained to me now what you meant and I see your point!

And of course it does not bother me at all if people choose the answer "not interested" in my poll! As said earlier, for some an SE Manix WILL be an improvement or at least an option (I personally would want to have at least 80 % of my ffg Spydies in spyderedge if I could), for others not.
I just wanted to discuss your statement (see the quote), cause now obviously I did not quite understand it at first. :)

/ ... Anyway, the more I talk about it, the mire I really, really want a translucent blue Manix LW in SE... :rolleyes: Such a model would be a strong competitor on days where I now grab my Stretch (PE) or Endela (SE), and I guess it would "win" the place in the pocket a good portion of times..

Absofreakinlutely. LW and G10.
Might as well give the base model g10 skeletonised liners too.