Last night when I got home I wanted to try different things on the flats of this knife.
First I broke out my Spyderco White Bench stone and mounted it on my sink bridge. The ceramics loaded up very swiftly and reveled that the ceramic stone is far from flat by the way the steel deposited itself, so I switched sides and it was also not flat but less uneven than the other side. Can't say I am impressed with that at all.
1. These stones are not flat.
2. These stones are worthless for flattening and polishing flats.
3. These stones load up with metal to swiftly to be used for anything other than touch-ups.
4. These Stones are very fine and should be just fine for edge maintenance if a high degree of polished edge is desired, it is in fact a higher degree of polish than people think.
The sections where the Stone did make contact polished up pretty good.
Then I took out my Spyderco UF rods and flipped the sharpmaker over inserted them mounted them in the sink bridge and got an even higher degree of polish but it is impossible to do flats this way and of course they loaded up with steel swiftly.
Next because I knew I was going to start over I used the spyderco brown bench stone and to my delight it was far more flat than the white stone.
It too loaded up with steel as I knew it would (As I knew they all would even before I started this exercise) It too does deliver a higher degree of polish than people might think it is in fact very far from being a medium or coarse stone. The blade dulled a bit and I was good with that then I took various stones from my wicked edge paddles and used them and could get to mirror but of course with many scratches present.
Satisfied with my better understanding of what sharpening abrasives really do what regardless of numerical designation I then decided ok time to start over and remove the scratches.
Started with My Atoma 400 plate but discovered there were scratches present it was not getting to so then dropped back to the Atoma 140.
The Atoma 140 is a beast and it works best not dry nor wet but with water and dish soap which breaks the surface tension of the water and keeps the bade from hydroplaning and this is also true on the 600 Grit plate.
It is still a bit of work to reduce blade thickness and even it out from spine to bevel, one thing I learned also is the knife was not flat from the factory either as it was revealed by using the diamond plates certain areas would take scratches sooner than others so I kept going until uniformity had been achieved as best as I could last night.
After getting it as flat as I thought I could last night which the pictures I just took revel there is a bit more to do... I moved onto the 400 Atoma but did not spend much time with it as I suspect I need to be in the 240 grit range after the 140 before heading North to 400.
My SIC Bench stones from Gritomatic arrive tonight and I intend to go back to the 140 for a bit more flattening then use the 240 and see how it goes.
The pictures below are after all that has been described above. Essentially flattening and thinning with an Atoma 140 followed by an Atoma 400.
The flats are very coarse and catch lint and paper towel and just about anything they come in contact with and makes it hard to get a good picture as even finger prints smudge things a bit.
The Spydie hole has also become a wee bit sharper than normal on a stretch so I will have to use the Spyderco pro - files to make them smoother.
The knife is still very sharp and slices like crazy and will improve with more refined flats.
Thoughts Stones are the long way to go when reducing and flattening the sides of a knife but for some odd reason I find it interesting and relaxing.
Finished up last night by cleaning all the stones except the Atomas with Bar Keepers Friend.