Am i just lucky with my super steels?

[BigKenbo]

I don't think "sharpening" is as much an issue as reprofiling. Sharpmaker can put an edge on practically anything but repairing edge damage and coming back from a very dull edge takes more time. If I can reprofile Maxamet on a Sharpmaker then anyone can.

Good point!! but it's also like I've said in the past. If you just get a couple of high end coarse and extra coarse diamond benchstones you can reprofile a really beat up blade to where you have prepared your work for doing final detail work with the 204 Sharpmaker will be much easier IMO. On a really beat up blade it's hard to be a high quality, coarse diamond benchstone to do most of the hard work with before doing the final edge on the Sharpmaker or any other high end kit type sharpening system for that matter.

Thats been my experience as well. What has taken my edges to screaming sharp is the diamond impregnated strops. At least for all but the S110V and maxamet. I like them a little coarser.

[MacLaren]

Ya know, the only steel I've ever not been able to anything with is ZDP-189. It was an Al Mar Eagle.
Using a SharpMaker of course. Everything else has been fine.
I love 10v and K390. And especially 204p.
Actually, S110v doesn't seem to play too well with me either.
But, that's it.

Thats a surprise to me on the ZDP-189. I have had really good luck with it. They all seem to have a personality. Its not like the old case knives at all. My best results on the ZDP have been to take it to 600 and the polish the edge with diamond impregnated strop. Best of luck!

Lol, luck is what I need.
Like stated earlier, at the time all I used was a SharpMaker.

[BigKenbo]

I will admit that I haven't used my S110V Military as much as I could, due to concern I have about resharpening (as opposed to just touching it up). That's more on me than on the steel itself.

I do prefer the types of steels I know I can sharpen...LC200N, S35VN, S30V, VG-10, H1, 154CM, SAK steel, etc., etc.

I will say that, in my personal experience, the all-time hardest knife that I've tried to sharpen was a Case 2-blade jackknife, in "as ground" Tru-Sharp (420HC) stainless; hardly a super steel. I don't know why, but that one particular knife was a bear to resharpen, and I was doing it at the correct edge angles. Maybe the HT was off?? I've sharpened other Case knives without any problems. But that's starting to go OT.

I'd say, if you can handle all the super steels, enjoy the ride! My hangup with S110V is just that; my own hangup in my mind. I know it's seen as a finicky steel by many, and an easy-to-deal-with steel by others.

Jim

I have a bunch of cases. Thats where i was at before i took the plunge down the super steel rabbit hole. A2 was as beefy as i could want for a fixed blade and case made my folders. Youre right my friend, i have noted some significant differences in how they have heat treated. I have a yellow handled trapper that just wore out arkansas stones lol! S110V has been the most "finicky" for me, but some of these guys have really helped. I think with the S110V ya got to be consistent with your technique as much as anything. And buy diamond abrasives. FWIW i found that 600 grit on the S110V is the sweet spot for me.if you got an edge on that old case im sure you can handle it!

[James Y]

Thanks, BigKenbo!

Jim

[FK]

No one has discussed one of the most important aspects of sharpening,,, observation of the apex.

I really like and rely on a 10X eye loop to observe the very small rolled edge or wire edge which is sometimes a frustrating component of very sharp knives.
My first introduction to ZDP-189 for example,,, I had a stubborn wire edge that would not give me the sharpness I expected. It was formed with DMT diamond stones and could be felt with thumbnail but almost invisible. Examining the apex with magnification and very carefully removing the wire edge now make it among my favorite Seki steels.

Regards,
FK

[BigKenbo]

No one has discussed one of the most important aspects of sharpening,,, observation of the apex.

I really like and rely on a 10X eye loop to observe the very small rolled edge or wire edge which is sometimes a frustrating component of very sharp knives.
My first introduction to ZDP-189 for example,,, I had a stubborn wire edge that would not give me the sharpness I expected. It was formed with DMT diamond stones and could be felt with thumbnail but almost invisible. Examining the apex with magnification and very carefully removing the wire edge now make it among my favorite Seki steels.

Regards,
FK

VERY on point! I use a jewelers loop. Have for years, it helped me when i was learning to freehand, only 30 years ago or so! And it has been invaluable to me over the years. Thanks for the input!