Spyderco Forums

Today I made a strop. I was discussing final sharpening using strops with a friend who had about a 1/4 hide and offered up some leather. I had a piece of 1/2 x 2.5” x ?? oak. Perfect! I cut the leather slightly larger than the wood, glued it up with good ol’ Elmer’s rubber cement, then finished it on my bench sander. Now I’ve just gotta wade through all the info and misinfo about abrasive compounds... it’s enough to make my head hurt. I like whatever green compound that came on my Worksharp field sharpener.

I glued it up so I’d have one side suede:



...and one side smooth:

Good for you!

I always leave the smooth side naked.

To me the abrasive thing is pretty simple. If you're going to strop high-vanadium-content blades, you're best to go with diamond or CBN. Otherwise, whatever compound you like. I really don't think anything below 4um is necessary, fun and cool yes, but not necessary.

I took an unused paint stir stick and glued an old belt to both sides, smooth side out. I haven't needed to use any compound yet, but I can sure get a real sharp edge.

My son used to install hardwood flooring so I have a garbage can full of oak scraps. I'll have to use a piece of flooring to make a larger/sturdier strop some time.

Eli Chaps wrote: ↑

Sat Sep 15, 2018 12:18 pm

Good for you!

I always leave the smooth side naked.

To me the abrasive thing is pretty simple. If you're going to strop high-vanadium-content blades, you're best to go with diamond or CBN. Otherwise, whatever compound you like. I really don't think anything below 4um is necessary, fun and cool yes, but not necessary.

Yep, diamond works great on stuff like s30v, s110v, etc.

If you're ever having trouble getting those screaming sharp, hair whittling edges try some diamond compound.

2 words.... Ken Schwartz.

I’ve used the smooth side tonight on the M4 para3 in the pic and a couple santokus. Took all 3 knives through the brown and white stones on the sharpmaker and finished on the smooth leather. I’m impressed what a difference plain leather makes!

Pelagic wrote: ↑

Sat Sep 15, 2018 5:53 pm

2 words.... Ken Schwartz.

Found his blog... that could be a serious rabbit hole!

Eli Chaps wrote: ↑

Sat Sep 15, 2018 12:18 pm

Good for you!

I always leave the smooth side naked.

To me the abrasive thing is pretty simple. If you're going to strop high-vanadium-content blades, you're best to go with diamond or CBN. Otherwise, whatever compound you like. I really don't think anything below 4um is necessary, fun and cool yes, but not necessary.

I’ll be sharpening whatever Wusthof uses in their classic kitchen knives, 52100, A2, D2, M2, M4, rex45, vg10, 154cm, and hopefully soon some O1. I’ve been pleased with the tiny strop on my worksharp field sharpener, it’s got “green” compound. No idea what grit.

Woodpuppy wrote: ↑

Sat Sep 15, 2018 6:47 pm

Eli Chaps wrote: ↑

Sat Sep 15, 2018 12:18 pm

Good for you!

I always leave the smooth side naked.

To me the abrasive thing is pretty simple. If you're going to strop high-vanadium-content blades, you're best to go with diamond or CBN. Otherwise, whatever compound you like. I really don't think anything below 4um is necessary, fun and cool yes, but not necessary.

I’ll be sharpening whatever Wusthof uses in their classic kitchen knives, 52100, A2, D2, M2, M4, rex45, vg10, 154cm, and hopefully soon some O1. I’ve been pleased with the tiny strop on my worksharp field sharpener, it’s got “green” compound. No idea what grit.

Compounds can vary widely and color isn't always a good delineator, but "green" compound is often the very common chromium oxide. It's sometimes mixed with aluminum oxide as well. Grits sizes vary widely. There are those here far more versed in this so I'll let them correct or add to anything I said.

It will definitely handle your Whustof's. I don't even steel anymore, just strop on green suede and then bare hard leather. It'll be fine for 52100, VG10, and 154cm and I think the others but I don't have first hand experience there.

Nice strop! If you want a recommendation on compounds, I’d say try DMT’s dia-paste, I got a sampler pack of 6, 3, and 1 micron and they work great for honing and polishing! It was not expensive and I still have plenty left in the tubes. They work great on both carbon steels and highly alloyed metals.

The branded diamond paste and sprays are pretty pricey. I just bought a whole set from 0.5 up to 40 micron straight from China for a fraction of the price. I did the same for a diamond plate that i use to lap my Naniwa stones.

Nice done, looks great!

I'm in the minority on this but I often like stropping with dry diamond powder on basswood. I'll go as coarse as 30 micron. Burr eliminator and aggressive edge.

Thanks all. JLB the DMT sampler pack seems like a good risk.

Well done Wp.

I’ve found Dialux Vert (green) works well on leather (flesh side). It’s dry, so as your strop loads up and glazes you can use a clean piece of scrap leather to clean it unlike anything oil based.

I’ve also found that I get best results from sanding the flesh side of the leather on a sheet of sandpaper laid on a flat surface like a granite bench top, sheet of glass or similar till it’s flat and all the “fluffy” stuff is gone.

For what it’s worth I sand the smooth fur side of the leather flat too. I don’t use an compound on that side and only use it to lightly finish and clean residual compound from the blade. :)

All that said the only knives I strop these days are true zero grind Scandinavians. :rolleyes: