Spyderco Forums

I’m probably going to get the touch and pitchfork treatment for this but does the blade steel make that huge of a difference? I bought my first Spyderco.... a Endura 2 stainless with an AUS6 blade.... and carried it for years as an EDC, steak, and everything else knife and it performed well. I’ve had AUS8 blades, a pile of VG-10, and now some S30V, and while the newer blades can be brought to a finer edge I can’t say whether it’s the steel or my sharpening ability that has brought that on. So my question is how much does a different steel matter to you or is it no difference then personal choice like colour preference or carry method?

Whatever steel is at hand, will work for me.

Blade steel does matter depending on what you're doing with your knife.

They all get sharp if they have decent quality, I just like sharpening when I WANT to not because I HAVE to. With the low alloy soft stuff it just becames a chore to stop and bring a quality edge back and it feel like a waste of time to put effort into the edge since it blunts so fast. No Joy

I find some steels have better structures for better edges through composition and heat treatment that makes sharpening to a killer edge more enjoyable, some for more endurance and aggressiveness.

So for me its a big deal, it's my life, it's my pursuit of happiness.

But I understand why it's so esoteric. You won't find me telling people how much I enjoyed a shovel steel or geometry. Shovels are just a tools, I don't care about them, the cheapest one works and if it breaks who cares.

How the majority of people feel about knife steel is how I feel about shovels and there is nothing wrong with that.

For most people, no probably not. There certainly are people who can get the most out of certain steels but I went through most of my life with the basic understanding that there was stainless and non stainless and really didn't think much more beyond that and I probably could have lived my entire life that way but it's a lot more fun learning and experimenting.

knivesandbooks wrote: ↑

Sat Mar 24, 2018 6:51 pm

Blade steel does matter depending on what you're doing with your knife.

Cutting stuff. All of my knives are users and I edc 2 folders or a folder and a fixed everyday. I also carry a victorinox cadet but that’s mostly for the nail file. I don’t use my blades as pry bars or screwdrivers but I do cut whatever I need to with them. I am trained in using my knives in self defence and that is one of the reasons that one of my knives is either a hookbill(harpy) or wairncliffe(Yojimbo) but I never carry them with that purpose in mind because here in kanuckastan pulling a blade in self defence is always a last resort cause chances are using a knife even in defence of your life will probably result in you being a guest of the establishment.

blueeyedogre wrote: ↑

Sat Mar 24, 2018 6:38 pm

I’m probably going to get the touch and pitchfork treatment for this but does the blade steel make that huge of a difference? I bought my first Spyderco.... a Endura 2 stainless with an AUS6 blade.... and carried it for years as an EDC, steak, and everything else knife and it performed well. I’ve had AUS8 blades, a pile of VG-10, and now some S30V, and while the newer blades can be brought to a finer edge I can’t say whether it’s the steel or my sharpening ability that has brought that on. So my question is how much does a different steel matter to you or is it no difference then personal choice like colour preference or carry method?

I have pretty limited experience in this subject but here is my 2 cents:

There is a huge difference between certain steels.

Partially, it depends what attribute of the steel you are talking about. In edge retention, there is a big difference between, say, AUS-6 and S110V. Or between 1095 and Maxamet. In corrosion resistance too, you have Super Blue, which if unprotected rusts in humid weather, on one hand; and steels like H1 or LC200N, which are immune to corrosion, on the other.

Other parameters like toughness could be considered.

That said, while I personally enjoy trying out different steels, for mild, average EDC use, nearly any steel will work. I guess it all depends how much a steel nerd you are. :)

And welcome to the forum!

knivesandbooks wrote: ↑

Sat Mar 24, 2018 6:51 pm

Blade steel does matter depending on what you're doing with your knife.

Second this.

Who manufactures and heat treats it is important too. If you buy the same steel processed and heat treated by 5 different companies, they will likely not all perform the same. Blade geometry matters as well. But to answer your question more directly... can I notice a difference between 8Cr13MoV and Maxamet? Yes, yes I can.

It matters to me. I can't believe the difference in EDC convenience factor in carrying something with more edge retention. Maxamet has been very eye opening for me in this regard. Talk about time savings.

as I fall deeper down the spydie hole I am less concerned with blade steel type and more concerned with blade grind, thickness, and shape. I am a try it all see what works for me best type of spyderco ELU. for my needs vg10 and similar steels are enough for me. of course "super steels" are fun to try out, but I don't need them.

Stuart Ackerman wrote: ↑

Sat Mar 24, 2018 6:42 pm

Whatever steel is at hand, will work for me.

Agreed

I haven't tried that many yet, but I have enjoyed trying different steels.

When I got a native for my daughter, I got her s110v because: it was stainless, and she works as a lifeguard; I wasn't sure how often I would be able to track her knife down to touch it up (so, edge-retention = good); and blue is her favorite color.

Of course, I got my younger daughter a hap40 caly (green) -- so "favorite color" may have been the biggest thing. Hm.

But while I am enjoying different steels, I think I am probably a little more concerned about what role the knife plays (as a tool); how it feels in-hand; or handle color, apparently. But I'm not breaking down cardboard or carpet in bulk, so I don't have to make it through a shift or anything. And I haven't found English Muffins or apples to dull anything very quickly.

Did I just talk myself out of steel snobbery? Help!

It’s fun to have all the fancy new steels, but do I really need them? Probably not lol

murphjd25 wrote: ↑

Sat Mar 24, 2018 10:04 pm

It’s fun to have all the fancy new steels, but do I really need them? Probably not lol

Yeah I feel the same. I really enjoy seeing how they sharpen. M4, HAP40, & Cruwear have become favorites but, the reality is, I could get by just fine with S30V/S35VN, VG10, or even BD1.

I wouldn’t go diving with carbon steel.

Spydergirl88 wrote: ↑

Sat Mar 24, 2018 7:33 pm

as I fall deeper down the spydie hole I am less concerned with blade steel type and more concerned with blade grind, thickness, and shape. I am a try it all see what works for me best type of spyderco ELU. for my needs vg10 and similar steels are enough for me. of course "super steels" are fun to try out, but I don't need them.

This.

As long as the heat treat is good, most steels work just fine for me. I'm a little picky about the corrosion resistance in my folding knives since they get carried IWB during the summer and are exposed to sweat, otherwise I'm open to most steels.

In general I prefer low carbide stainless steels like CTSBD1, 440C and 12C27, and simple carbon steels like 1095, A2 and O1. I prefer their sharpening response to steels with extreme edge holding properties. The ability to quickly and easily take a hair popping sharp edge matters more to me than edge longevity.

I've never started the day with a shaving sharp knife and reached a point it was unusable before the day was over, regardless of steel. In fact I can't recall the last time I had to sharpen an EDC more than once a week.

I'll take any of the steels Spyderco used prior to their introduction of ZDP-189 into the lineup, over it or anything that's been added since.

To be very honest, blade grind and geometry matter more to me than blade steel. In the mid 1980's I bought a Spyderco G-2 Endura and used it HARD every day at work six days a week. Typically I would just sharpen it on my day off, and it would be good to go for another week. At work, I was cutting...daily...yards of cardbord, countless zip ties, among plenty of other various media and the G-2 held up like a champ. Now I read on the forums that BD1 ( G-2 's equivalent ) is just an OK blade steel and it's needs to be stropped after every 20 cuts to maintain a good edge. Honestly, sometimes I think the unbridled enthusiasm for the "new kid on the block" clouds reality.

I just bought a Byrd Titanium Cara Cara with lowly 8Cr13MoV...while some claim that steel wouldn't meet two hours of daily cutting requirements, I've been merrily cutting up carpet and rope day after day and I haven't had to sharpen it yet. The Cara Cara cuts!