Spyderco Forums

Higher wrote: ↑

Tue May 25, 2021 9:12 am

I tried to disassemble the knife, but this time it takes more effort.
I didn't twist it any longer. Worried not to hurt. Locking screws? Need to heat up?

If you are still working on the first generation Pacific Salt, the only way to get it apart is by drilling out the pivot pin and replacing it with a new one. I don't know what material the pin is made of, what size it is or where to get the correct pin stock to replace it. I wouldn't try it myself.

yablanowitz wrote: ↑

Fri May 28, 2021 6:24 am

Higher wrote: ↑

Tue May 25, 2021 9:12 am

I tried to disassemble the knife, but this time it takes more effort.
I didn't twist it any longer. Worried not to hurt. Locking screws? Need to heat up?

If you are still working on the first generation Pacific Salt, the only way to get it apart is by drilling out the pivot pin and replacing it with a new one. I don't know what material the pin is made of, what size it is or where to get the correct pin stock to replace it. I wouldn't try it myself.

Thank you very much for remembering my story with this knife.
I was able to make out Pacific Salt. Dremel helped me. I wanted to insert the blade into the handle from Endura 4. But these knives have a different axial hole. The old Pacific Salt has a smaller one. I ordered axial screw from a SAK knife. They fit in size. But this is not suitable for the new scales from Endura 4. Only one way. Order new scales with the desired hole size.
This is all somewhere in disassembled form. Thank you for reminding me of this.

In the post above, I wrote about the Spyderco Shaman. The knife is not new and the blade is very tight. I am afraid to rip off the splines on the screws.
Soaked the knife in hot water. 80 celsius 176 °F
And then I was able to unscrew the screws. Washed it out. And now the blade falls under its own weight.

___
translate

Just wanted to say, please stop using rivets lol, I've had to toss 2 Manix 2 LW's now because the action was so junked up that soaking wouldn't get the stuff out of it.

sal wrote: ↑

Thu May 27, 2021 8:57 pm

Hi Rusanv.

Welcome to our forum.

These knives are assembled by professional knife-makers. They are proper as delivered. If you are not a knife-maker, I suggest that you learn as much as you can before attempting to disassemble them.

sal

Добрый день Сал. Спасибо за ответ.

(Translation: Good afternoon, Sal. Thanks for the answer.)

I took apart my new PM2 cruwear micarta because the detent didn't seem right. I didn't known if the new model was intentionally made this way that's why I investigated. Found a QC problem when the detent ball was pressed in. Being able to take apart knives is a good idea for cleaning, oil, and checking for defects.

Hi Smahoney,

Welcome to our forum.

sal

I take apart most knives I own, and I own hundreds. Even with some background in repairing stuff, there was a **** of a learning curve when I began and I did screw up knives thinking I knew what I was doing. Learned a few things the hard way. Fortunately learning the other stuff was typically easier and my knowledge of the knife brands I own is a lot stronger as a result, as well as my general knife-fu. For me it's totally worth it now that I'm on the other side of that process, but I have a tackle box with a half dozen disassembled knives that will never go back together on account of some dumbass mistake I made and then learned from. Cost of doing business.

The thing is, I wouldn't dream of taking a knife apart and then trying to make a warranty claim on it. I figure I'm voiding the warranty and that's that. I'm not going to ruin a knife these days by cleaning or maintaining it, and I'm the kind of guy who'd rather fix it himself if possible than deal with the return process anyway, so this works for me. But if you don't have good Torx/Torx Plus drivers and a soldering iron and a steady hand and patience, the warranty route will save you money and heartache, and either way, either you should be willing to eat the cost of your mistakes or you shouldn't void your warranty IMO. Just how I come out on the issue.

I'd love it if I could buy replacement Spyderco parts even if they cost quite a bit in order to cover the cost of providing the service, I'd be happy as a clam at high tide and I might even go so far as to buy some to have on hand in case I need them ... but I definitely get that doing that means the folks at Golden would have to deal with a ton of issues because offering the parts means that people who SHOULDN'T take their knife apart will still try. And it's Spyderco's business, not mine. So I'm ok without access to OEM replacement screws and stepped pivot barrels and back lock bars.

Hi Resonanzmacher,

Thanx for sharing. We use a process that we call CQI or Constant Quality Improvement. Kaizen in other areas. When we come up with an improvement or a fix to a possible problem, we just make the change. Not based on a model year or anything else. This means that there may be many variations of parts within a given model history. I believe you can see where trying to guess and ship OEM parts would be very challenging.

sak

Kaizen's a great practice. Among other things it teaches people that quality's more important than pushing out every part possible, and it's a great way of getting the info around to the people who need to make the change. I once worked in a factory where no one ever wanted to be the one to stop the line, and it was kinda like watching people trip over a buck trying to pick up a dime.

In any case? Yes, I can definitely see the difficulties inherent in trying to get the right OEM replacement part out to people under those circumstances. They'd need to be able to cite a production serial number or at least a build number, and either way you'd have to engrave or stamp those into the part as you finish the knife itself in a process coordinated across everyone that's assembling knives at the facility and not everyone's going to be ok with the added expense that takes, just for some folks to be able to mail order repair parts instead of sending their knife in. And you'd have to maintain spares from before and after each CQI update which... wouldn't be very lean, to say the least.

Thx for the reframe, Sal. :)

Smahoney22 wrote: ↑

Sat Nov 13, 2021 9:34 pm

I took apart my new PM2 cruwear micarta because the detent didn't seem right. I didn't known if the new model was intentionally made this way that's why I investigated. Found a QC problem when the detent ball was pressed in. Being able to take apart knives is a good idea for cleaning, oil, and checking for defects.

I acationally clean my knifes and sharpen dull blades. Which oil do you use?

Hi SopfCA,

Welcome to our forum.

sal

sal wrote: ↑

Mon Jan 31, 2022 1:45 pm

Hi SopfCA,

Welcome to our forum.

sal

Thanks! I'm happy to be here

In the last week I ventured into knife disassembly.

Started with an easy one - Caly 3.5 as only the blade comes out. 10 minutes, cleaned and lightly lubed.

2nd on was the Delica 4. I was nervous because all the videos and forum readthroughs made it sound daunting. It was very simple apart from a little frustration getting the lockbar in place. It really needed a full on clean as I swim with it and used it in salt water.

Today I did the flytanium ball lock upgrade and put in a ceramic bearing as well. No issues except I forgot to tape the blade initially. Het if you DIY, what's a little blood.

Thanks to everyone here for the info and tips. And no, I'd never try to warranty a knife I worked on.

Godzilla68 wrote: ↑

Wed Feb 02, 2022 4:21 pm

. And no, I'd never try to warranty a knife I worked on.

Well Amazon has created a huge demand for high quality box cutters a.k.a pocket knives.Spyderco makes the best in the world.This has fueled a huge demand worldwide.well maybe a few people are upgrading steel because they know the true value .

Hi Pono,

Welcome to our forum.

You would probably be better off to post on the general forum?

sal

SopfCA wrote: ↑

Mon Jan 31, 2022 1:51 am

Smahoney22 wrote: ↑

Sat Nov 13, 2021 9:34 pm

I took apart my new PM2 cruwear micarta because the detent didn't seem right. I didn't known if the new model was intentionally made this way that's why I investigated. Found a QC problem when the detent ball was pressed in. Being able to take apart knives is a good idea for cleaning, oil, and checking for defects.

I acationally clean my knifes and sharpen dull blades. Which oil do you use?

For cleaning/corrosion inhibition, I use Eezox gun oil. For moving parts and the action, I use KPL (Knife Pivot Lube).

A few days ago I ended up taking apart my Native 5 lightweight FRN because the back lock was sticking badly. This is new out the box as of last week. I would say 3 out of 10 openings/closings it would stick really bad like the whole mechanism was malfunctioning. I thought I had a defective model…I used KPL on the moving areas and even on that metal pin that slides up & down with the lock mechanism and it seems to be OK now. I’m not sure what it was, but now I’m very weary of this FRN and how ‘cheap’ it feels. Maybe it has too much give and doesn’t match up well with the steel parts in the innards. Just my experience here

Joshuaroyce wrote: ↑

Thu Mar 24, 2022 12:01 am

A few days ago I ended up taking apart my Native 5 lightweight FRN because the back lock was sticking badly. This is new out the box as of last week. I would say 3 out of 10 openings/closings it would stick really bad like the whole mechanism was malfunctioning. I thought I had a defective model…I used KPL on the moving areas and even on that metal pin that slides up & down with the lock mechanism and it seems to be OK now. I’m not sure what it was, but now I’m very weary of this FRN and how ‘cheap’ it feels. Maybe it has too much give and doesn’t match up well with the steel parts in the innards. Just my experience here

Native 5 for me was different than other FRN models with Liners and bronze washers. It is a little rough out of the box. What worked for me was lots of opening and closing. Once it got sticky, oiled a little then lots more opening and closing. I repeated that for over a week solely carrying the Native 5. Once it broke in, it feels great. FRN models with Liners and bronze washers are smoother out of the box in my experience, but the Native does get smoother with time.

Few days ago I had to take apart Shaman, shared my happy results and some advice here.
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=92899&p=1640976#p1640976

From my experience almost every knife on washers need some tuning work if someone like smooth action without any play. But to be honest my Para 3 was quite perfect from the box in comparison to Shaman. Also my two ex PM2.