Spyderco Forums

So I've found out fairly quickly my newly acquired (yesterday) Southard doesn't run very well dry. It flipped like a dream out of the box, action slowly deteriorated over the course of the day. I knew it wasn't the bearings as it would practically fall to the detent when I took pressure off the lock bar. Long story short, I was able to lube the detent (without taking knife apart) with the slightest bit of lithium grease I had lying around and I'm back to flipping like a dream. What do I need to use for lube? What is your method? How often do you have to do it to your knives? All info from framelock flipper vets welcomed and appreciated.

I've used light oil and light gun grease with good success. Last night I disassembled my Sliverax and decided to lube the bearings and detent ball with Imperial Sizing Die Wax. The action was good to begin with but it's even better now. That stuff is slickery!

Sharp Guy wrote:I've used light oil and light gun grease with good success. Last night I disassembled my Sliverax and decided to lube the bearings and detent ball with Imperial Sizing Die Wax. The action was good to begin with but it's even better now. That stuff is slickery!

I have some RCBS case lube. I may try it next!

Nano-oil here, 10wt, drop or two in the pivot on occasion, like the needle applicator.

Nano oil. Sometimes Finish Line Flouro

I usually let it break in and clean out the metal crud with bits of cloth best I can reach before I resort to oil, which usually includes a full disassembly and cleaning. Wipeing the crud from the detent ball and path on the tang usually helps a lot during break in. Lube can trap it in there.

I use the nano 10 wt as well. That needle applicator is the ticket. Most all my spydies are smooooth.

Breakfree CLP but last week I bought new Ballistol oil. They now have Ballistol Silikon spray

Very small amounts of moly-di paste have worked well for me on both pivots and detents. Other types of grease work as well, as does moly in a carrier that evaporates completely.

Bloke has warned that molybdenum disulphide can be corrosive in wet environments, though I have never seen any in my use of this lube on bicycles, airguns or knives.

The advantage of grease is that it can be placed precisely, doesn't migrate and can repel moisture, the down-side is that it requires disassembly to apply effectively.

I tried the waxy "dry" lubricants from Finish Line... they make knife pivots very stiff, which is a bummer, since they repel water and are easy to apply.

Wrathhog wrote:So I've found out fairly quickly my newly acquired (yesterday) Southard doesn't run very well dry. It flipped like a dream out of the box, action slowly deteriorated over the course of the day. I knew it wasn't the bearings as it would practically fall to the detent when I took pressure off the lock bar. Long story short, I was able to lube the detent (without taking knife apart) with the slightest bit of lithium grease I had lying around and I'm back to flipping like a dream. What do I need to use for lube? What is your method? How often do you have to do it to your knives? All info from framelock flipper vets welcomed and appreciated.

I've had good luck with the following lubricants on my Southard's detent:

Mineral oil
Vaseline
coconut oil
lithium grease
nano oil

biggest issue with all of these is it's very easy to apply too much, and then have excess that does nothing except attract dirt and pocket lint.

I like the lithium grease the most because I can wipe it off and there's still a fairly durable thin layer on it that lasts and sheds lint and dirt.

awa54 wrote: The advantage of grease is that it can be placed precisely, doesn't migrate and can repel moisture, the down-side is that it requires disassembly to apply

I was able to take a very small piece of wire with a tiny dab of grease and lube the detent ball, detent hole, and track. It worked extremely well I have to say. I'm really not crazy about taking this knife apart, at least not now anyway. I'm sure I'll need to eventually.

Usually lubing the detent ball will be enough to do the hole and track, too. I put a dab about 0.5mm in diameter on the tip of a toothpick, then put that on the detent ball.

I just put a dab if grease on the ball. Recently 8 l sanded and polished the ball track on my Sliverax and the difference was so significant I may do it on all my knives.

Someone turned me onto Seal 1 CLP Plus for knife maintenance purposes and it is much better than most things I have used in the past. Has a completely different feel and is not nearly as runny as any other CLP type product I have used in the past.

I'm a big fan of VERY lightly lubing the detent ball, then giving a little blast of air when it gets dry. That's enough to move some lube into the detent ball path

I over oil my pivots for water resistance. Weapon Shield CLP is among my favorites, better luck than with Nano-Oil sadly.

Wrathhog wrote:

awa54 wrote: The advantage of grease is that it can be placed precisely, doesn't migrate and can repel moisture, the down-side is that it requires disassembly to apply

I was able to take a very small piece of wire with a tiny dab of grease and lube the detent ball, detent hole, and track. It worked extremely well I have to say. I'm really not crazy about taking this knife apart, at least not now anyway. I'm sure I'll need to eventually.

Good thinking, I had only done pivot and detent at the same time.

Forgot to mention that moly-di shouldn't be allowed on any lock faces, since it can be slippery enough to compromise their safety!

MoS2 won't comprimse a lock surface much differently if at all than Graphite. I have WS2 which is 3x as slick as MoS2 costing my PM2's lock surfaces and other knives and I've experienced no slip or stick.

Wanimator wrote:MoS2 won't comprimse a lock surface much differently if at all than Graphite. I have WS2 which is 3x as slick as MoS2 costing my PM2's lock surfaces and other knives and I've experienced no slip or stick.

After unsuccessfully trying several methods that I've seen posted here, I recently alleviated a lock stick problem on one of my PM2s by brushing on a small amount of MoS2. I agree that the lock is still very solid and I have no more fear of it failing during normal use than I did prior to applying the Moly. :) :spyder: