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Does anyone have any real world BD1 experience as far as edge retention goes? I have read all sorts of stuff, from it is not very good to it is as good as VG-10 to it holds up as good as S110V. Now, all of that cannot be true. I have read where some say it is better than AUS8 but a bit less than VG-10. I was looking at the composition and it really is similar to ATS-34. BD1 has Vanadium and ATS-34 does not, but ATS-34 has a lot more Molybdenum. I am no steel guru but I am learning and it looks as though the two should perform similarly with the edge going to BD1.

Can anyone help me out with this?

Whoever said it holds an edge like S110V is smoking crack. I'd say a step below VG10 is a reasonable assessment.

Evil D wrote:Whoever said it holds an edge like S110V is smoking crack. I'd say a step below VG10 is a reasonable assessment.

This is fair.

I love the M2LW and carried it quite a bit for months but the edge would fall off pretty quickly. More than once I noticed little dents in the blade after cutting up say, left over pork chops for lunch and bumping the bone. I'm not a steel snob per se but for me, the BD1 just wasn't, uh hum, cutting it. So I went back to my VG10 and ZDP189 Delicas and Dragonfly.

Yesterday I decided to buy the CTS-XHP exclusive version and discovered it has been discontinued. So, just to reassess the steel and see if I like carrying the design enough to justify even higher priced models, I gave my standard M2LW and good sharpening to near mirror polish (1.5um) at ~17DPS. Last night it could push-cut receipt paper with ease. So far today I have cut up some radishes, a hunk of cabbage, sliced up some sopressata sausage and cut open a taped shipping box. The knife is still shaving sharp but I can already feel it has changed from it's fresh-sharpened state. I reckon most general users wouldn't notice anything yet but I also reckon most of us are a little more discerning about such things. I suspect that if I continue with this same level of use each day that I won't be thrilled with the edge by this time next week.

That said, it sharpens up really well and I guess some quick daily stropping would maintain a good edge. It's also pretty tough in my experience.

But for me, I just don't think it will be good enough and I'm much happier with VG10. The M2LW is a fantastic design but I think the other steel options are the right way to go.

I know all of that is subjective but I hope it helps.

Ref: //forum.spyderco.com/viewtopic.php?t=71378

After having owned a Manix 2 with CTS-BD1 for about a year, having a Delica FFG with VG10 for about 3 years and having a PM2 with S110V for almost 18 months, let me say that the BD1 is probably a in the same realm as VG10. I would still take VG10 over BD1, I just think it holds up better to chips and abuse.
That said, BD1 is still a pleasant steel. I find that it sharpens easily, took a micro bevel very well. I use the sharpmaker with the diamond and ultra fine stones added.
Not sure what model you are looking at, but that Manix 2 lightweight is **** fine knife. Enjoy!

Username827 wrote:After having owned a Manix 2 with CTS-BD1 for about a year, having a Delica FFG with VG10 for about 3 years and having a PM2 with S110V for almost 18 months, let me say that the BD1 is probably a in the same realm as VG10. I would still take VG10 over BD1, I just think it holds up better to chips and abuse.
That said, BD1 is still a pleasant steel. I find that it sharpens easily, took a micro bevel very well. I use the sharpmaker with the diamond and ultra fine stones added.
Not sure what model you are looking at, but that Manix 2 lightweight is **** fine knife. Enjoy!

*Edit* there is an Orange with S90V version floating around somewhere if you are interested in that model and the S110V is not what you are looking for

Evil D wrote:Whoever said it holds an edge like S110V is smoking crack. I'd say a step below VG10 is a reasonable assessment.

Maybe crack with a meth chaser David!!
The way I see it, BD1 is a bit below VG-10. I have 2 Manix LW with it. I only carry the combo edge because the plain edge dulls very quickly!
For $119 shipped, grab the Cutlery Shoppe s90v version!! BIIIIIIIG difference!!
Joe

I found it on par with my PE H1 knives. Takes a very sharp edge with ease, but doesn't last long against highly abrasive materials. Works fine for my uses.

Nate wrote:Ref: //forum.spyderco.com/viewtopic.php?t=71378

Yes, that was one of a couple of discussions I read comparing BD1 with S110V favorably. I still find that hard to believe and put it down to the geometry of the blade.

From the comments I am going to assume my comparison to ATS-34 is pretty close. Still not bad at all.

Maybe it was just the example I had, but the M2LW I had in BD1 made the steel my least favorite. I loved the platform and traded up to the S110V and XHP, but the BD1 wouldn't hold and edge at all. I was extremely easy to sharpen but dulled very very quickly. I had better performance from 8CR13 and Aus8, so putting it just below VG10 would be generous for me. But as I said, maybe it was just the example I had. Nonetheless, it put me off BD1, and given the many other options available, I will just avoid it.

I know BD1 is supposed to be a step up from 8CrMoV13 but I couldn't notice a difference.

What I really HOPE FOR is that Spyderco will upgrade the steel on the Manix LW to XHP (perhaps in translucent orange).

I'm surprised to read about BD1 being more chippy than VG10. I've been toying with the idea of picking up a Manix LW as a beater and, while I'm not really concerned with edge holding, both toughness and corrosion resistance would be pretty important in this application. Any more input on this? How would BD1 compare to S110V, aside from edge holding?

Not very good at all in my experience. Part of why I pretty quickly sold the Manix 2 LW, along with not carrying for the handles. It was easy to get very sharp but the edge holding against cardboard, plastic zip ties, etc wasn't very good. I'd say it was between 8cr and AUS8, way below VG10.

Probably not the best blade steel Doc but it's not that BaDa1. :rolleyes:

In my experience

VG10 > BD1 = AUS8 < 8Cr13MoV, all by a slight margin

ThePeacent wrote:In my experience

VG10 > BD1 = AUS8 < 8Cr13MoV, all by a slight margin

This is what my research is telling me. I saw another video where a guy cut cardboard side by side with VG-10 and it was just a tad behind VG-10 but not by much. As I said, it looks to be around ATS-34, but I would not swear to it. ATS-34 is pretty good stuff and was, at one time, the darling of knife makers.

I have a BD1 Manix LW that lives in my kitchen drawer and I use it to slice veggies quite a bit... I touch it up every so often and it works like a charm. I've never had a problem with it.

PaleMoon wrote:I'm surprised to read about BD1 being more chippy than VG10. I've been toying with the idea of picking up a Manix LW as a beater and, while I'm not really concerned with edge holding, both toughness and corrosion resistance would be pretty important in this application. Any more input on this? How would BD1 compare to S110V, aside from edge holding?

H1 will absolutely destroy any other stainless when it comes to toughness and corrosion resistance, including BD1. I'd consider a Salt knife for your beater.

I originally bought my Pacific Salt for that reason and ended up liking it so much I now own six and EDC at least one daily.

That being said I reprofiled my Manix LW in BD1 pretty thin and never had chipping issues, but it was mostly a garage knife for me, not an EDC.

Has anyone tried BD1 in Spyderedge? I ask that because there are a lot of blade steels that I've found to be not so great in plain edge but yet perform well in Spyderedge. Good examples are GIN-1, AUS-8, ATS-34 ect.

I've not got the new RONIN 2 because of it having BD1. But I've really gotten picky about plain edged blade steel since I fell in love with M390 and S110V.