How do you use the Ultra Fine?

[tripscheck'em]

I began using the UF with a light film of mineral oil and noticed an improvement: it cuts faster. Before when I was doing it dry, it would hardly cut at all and after only a few passes, it wouldn't cut any of the s110v or s30v. Slightly raising the angle of the edge also helped. When I tried to sharpen the entire edge, I'd stay there forever just grinding away at that high s110v edge (Manix) with nary an improvement. I really think that the UF should come with more detailed instructions.

I also wash the UF with soap and water to remove the debris steel but the soap won't remove everything, there's still gray marks on the ceramic. What do I use to permanently remove all of the grey to make the ceramic as if it were new again?

also just generally wondering how other people use the UF.

[Sharp Guy]

I don't use the UF rods very often but I'll break them out once in awhile when I want to play around with a really fine edge. I usually stick to med or fine rods.

If the UF rods don't seem to be working for you perhaps you need to go back to the fine rods and work on the edge a little more.

I clean the rods with Barkeepers Friend and a scouring pad.

[vivi]

I use mine dry and only use it to sharpen a microbevel. I do not use it to sharpen an entire edge bevel or to create a microbevel. I'm happy with how it performs this way. I use the bench stone not the rods.

Typical sharpening process for a new Spyderco:

Grind off the factory bevel with a DMT XX course, taking it down to the 8-10 degrees per side range.

Polish up on a DMT fine.

Form a microbevel using the sharpmaker fines at 15 degrees per side setting (Only takes a couple passes)

Free hand polish the microbevel with the UF bench stone.

Strop.


I repeat those last two steps whenever I touch up my knife. I like how little steel the UF stone removes, as it lets me go months before I need to reset the edge and form a new microbevel, extending the life of my blades.

[Surfingringo]

I use the UF rods to attach my 600/1200 DMT Diafolds to my SM. I also use them occasionally to maintain the edges on some of my serrated knives where edge aggression doesn't really matter (due to the serrations). As far as regular sharpening, the fine rods with the SM already provide more refinement than I am looking for on my edges.

[Mic1]

I never really used my DMT ultra fine up till recently. I have always used oil , windex or water. It helps to prolong the life of the stones and prevents clogging.

[abbazaba]

I use them all the time for quick microbevel touch ups. When I'm walking by the work bench with a knife I know will still cut but no longer shaves, I do up and down strokes 10-20 passes per side, then 5-10 down strokes alternating sides. Literally 1 minute is often all I need to get my blade back to razor sharp if the edge hasn't been abused or neglected. I can get similar results with the Fine rods, but I usually finish with the Ultra Fine so they are already mounted in the SM. The UF might be overkill, but we've figured each other out and I've had good results with anything from VG10 to M4.

[Evil D]

I use them the same as the other stones, very light slow careful passes as a finishing touch and they always seem to take my edge to the next level. You can't just start out with them on S110V and expect to see results, you have to follow the grit progression and then they serve you well as a final stone.

[Bdubs808]

I don't have any input, I just want to thank everyone who has chimed in with their knowledge; I'm still a novice at sharpening, and any new tips on the SM is really helpful.
Happy New Year! :spyder:

[zeroed4x]

I clean the rods with Barkeepers Friend and a scouring pad.

I'll second that. It's the only way to clean ceramic rods.

[twinboysdad]

I use the UF rods to attach my 600/1200 DMT Diafolds to my SM. I also use them occasionally to maintain the edges on some of my serrated knives where edge aggression doesn't really matter (due to the serrations). As far as regular sharpening, the fine rods with the SM already provide more refinement than I am looking for on my edges.

This^^, I love it for SE H1 and that's about it. I think El Gringo and I both like our PE's very toothy so I usually hit the Mediums and that's that

[tripscheck'em]

I use mine dry and only use it to sharpen a microbevel. I do not use it to sharpen an entire edge bevel or to create a microbevel. I'm happy with how it performs this way. I use the bench stone not the rods.

Typical sharpening process for a new Spyderco:

Grind off the factory bevel with a DMT XX course, taking it down to the 8-10 degrees per side range.

Polish up on a DMT fine.

Form a microbevel using the sharpmaker fines at 15 degrees per side setting (Only takes a couple passes)

Free hand polish the microbevel with the UF bench stone.

Strop.


I repeat those last two steps whenever I touch up my knife. I like how little steel the UF stone removes, as it lets me go months before I need to reset the edge and form a new microbevel, extending the life of my blades.

I'm also a novice. I've always wondered, how do you all measure your angles when sharpening, like from 10-15 degrees? Do you use a protractor? I haven't been been able to tell by eyeing it and for that reason I've never done microbevels.

[anagarika]

I clean the rods with Barkeepers Friend and a scouring pad.

I'll second that. It's the only way to clean ceramic rods.

Can't find any barkeeper here. So I use pencil eraser to rub and take it off, most of it will be gone, though not 100%

[vivi]

I use mine dry and only use it to sharpen a microbevel. I do not use it to sharpen an entire edge bevel or to create a microbevel. I'm happy with how it performs this way. I use the bench stone not the rods.

Typical sharpening process for a new Spyderco:

Grind off the factory bevel with a DMT XX course, taking it down to the 8-10 degrees per side range.

Polish up on a DMT fine.

Form a microbevel using the sharpmaker fines at 15 degrees per side setting (Only takes a couple passes)

Free hand polish the microbevel with the UF bench stone.

Strop.


I repeat those last two steps whenever I touch up my knife. I like how little steel the UF stone removes, as it lets me go months before I need to reset the edge and form a new microbevel, extending the life of my blades.

I'm also a novice. I've always wondered, how do you all measure your angles when sharpening, like from 10-15 degrees? Do you use a protractor? I haven't been been able to tell by eyeing it and for that reason I've never done microbevels.

I eyeball it these days. In the past I used a protractor and pieces of scrap plastic from my relatives factory job to make jigs with different V slots at different increments, e.g. 40 degrees inclusive, 35, 30, etc. down to 10 degrees inclusive. I'd form the edge bevel on the DMT XX coarse, then set the knife in the slot and see how close I was to the angle I want.

When you freehand the specific angle doesn't matter, as long as you consistently hit the same angle with your strokes. Maybe my Paramilitary is sharpened at 8 degrees per side, maybe 10, maybe 11. In the end it doesn't make a difference. If it cuts well, I'm happy. If it doesn't, I'm going to make it thinner.

Making a consistent microbevel is fool proof if you use a sharpmaker. I don't sharpen any bladed object at more obtuse of an angle than 30 degrees inclusive, which is the thinnest setting on the sharpmaker. So I'll take my kitchen knife and grind a bevel on it with a diamond stone somewhere in the 10 degrees per side ballpark, polish up the bevel on the DMT fine, finish with alternating strokes on either side to reduce bur formation, then use the sharpmaker at the 30 degree setting with fine rods. It will hit the very edge apex every time with how thin I grind the bevels.

If I freehand instead of use the sharpmaker for the microbevel, I just make sure I'm using a more obtuse angle than when I grind the bevels. I don't try to measure specifics, I just make sure I'm hitting the very edge and that I can pop off arm hair without touching my skin when I'm done and I'm content. My edges are never 100% perfect, even to the naked eye, but they're sharper than any other knives I've used so it works for me. Just last night I used my Police 3 to slice a roma tomato for a pizza and I could push cut it without mashing the tomato and getting its juice everywhere. Barely took more than the weight of the knife to make the cuts.

[Evil D]

I clean the rods with Barkeepers Friend and a scouring pad.

I'll second that. It's the only way to clean ceramic rods.

Can't find any barkeeper here. So I use pencil eraser to rub and take it off, most of it will be gone, though not 100%

You can probably use Comet or any other "scouring" type kitchen cleaner. Barkeeper's is supposed to be gentile so it doesn't scratch stainless appliances, I really doubt something a little more abrasive like Comet would hurt the ceramic. It can't be any more harsh than the Scotchbrite pads we use.

[anagarika]

I clean the rods with Barkeepers Friend and a scouring pad.

I'll second that. It's the only way to clean ceramic rods.

Can't find any barkeeper here. So I use pencil eraser to rub and take it off, most of it will be gone, though not 100%

You can probably use Comet or any other "scouring" type kitchen cleaner. Barkeeper's is supposed to be gentile so it doesn't scratch stainless appliances, I really doubt something a little more abrasive like Comet would hurt the ceramic. It can't be any more harsh than the Scotchbrite pads we use.

David,

Thanks. Will see what is there in the kitchen. Mostly I use the Scotchbrite pad and soap (dishwashing soap). Haven't seen anything stronger used here. Maybe I need to buy some

[Evil D]

I clean the rods with Barkeepers Friend and a scouring pad.

I'll second that. It's the only way to clean ceramic rods.

Can't find any barkeeper here. So I use pencil eraser to rub and take it off, most of it will be gone, though not 100%

You can probably use Comet or any other "scouring" type kitchen cleaner. Barkeeper's is supposed to be gentile so it doesn't scratch stainless appliances, I really doubt something a little more abrasive like Comet would hurt the ceramic. It can't be any more harsh than the Scotchbrite pads we use.

David,

Thanks. Will see what is there in the kitchen. Mostly I use the Scotchbrite pad and soap (dishwashing soap). Haven't seen anything stronger used here. Maybe I need to buy some

I really don't see why a Scotchbrite and dish liquid wouldn't do the trick. These stones aren't very porous so they shouldn't take much to get clean. You may even try window cleaner and a Scotchbrite or any other cleaner you have. If you have any Mean Green or Superclean those will almost certainly clean them.

[vivi]

toothpaste does the trick too. Easier to find than stuff like penny brite, barkeepers friend etc. regular paste works better than gel.

[tripscheck'em]

I use mine dry and only use it to sharpen a microbevel. I do not use it to sharpen an entire edge bevel or to create a microbevel. I'm happy with how it performs this way. I use the bench stone not the rods.

Typical sharpening process for a new Spyderco:

Grind off the factory bevel with a DMT XX course, taking it down to the 8-10 degrees per side range.

Polish up on a DMT fine.

Form a microbevel using the sharpmaker fines at 15 degrees per side setting (Only takes a couple passes)

Free hand polish the microbevel with the UF bench stone.

Strop.


I repeat those last two steps whenever I touch up my knife. I like how little steel the UF stone removes, as it lets me go months before I need to reset the edge and form a new microbevel, extending the life of my blades.

I'm also a novice. I've always wondered, how do you all measure your angles when sharpening, like from 10-15 degrees? Do you use a protractor? I haven't been been able to tell by eyeing it and for that reason I've never done microbevels.

I eyeball it these days. In the past I used a protractor and pieces of scrap plastic from my relatives factory job to make jigs with different V slots at different increments, e.g. 40 degrees inclusive, 35, 30, etc. down to 10 degrees inclusive. I'd form the edge bevel on the DMT XX coarse, then set the knife in the slot and see how close I was to the angle I want.

When you freehand the specific angle doesn't matter, as long as you consistently hit the same angle with your strokes. Maybe my Paramilitary is sharpened at 8 degrees per side, maybe 10, maybe 11. In the end it doesn't make a difference. If it cuts well, I'm happy. If it doesn't, I'm going to make it thinner.

Making a consistent microbevel is fool proof if you use a sharpmaker. I don't sharpen any bladed object at more obtuse of an angle than 30 degrees inclusive, which is the thinnest setting on the sharpmaker. So I'll take my kitchen knife and grind a bevel on it with a diamond stone somewhere in the 10 degrees per side ballpark, polish up the bevel on the DMT fine, finish with alternating strokes on either side to reduce bur formation, then use the sharpmaker at the 30 degree setting with fine rods. It will hit the very edge apex every time with how thin I grind the bevels.

If I freehand instead of use the sharpmaker for the microbevel, I just make sure I'm using a more obtuse angle than when I grind the bevels. I don't try to measure specifics, I just make sure I'm hitting the very edge and that I can pop off arm hair without touching my skin when I'm done and I'm content. My edges are never 100% perfect, even to the naked eye, but they're sharper than any other knives I've used so it works for me. Just last night I used my Police 3 to slice a roma tomato for a pizza and I could push cut it without mashing the tomato and getting its juice everywhere. Barely took more than the weight of the knife to make the cuts.

You gave me the courage to do my first microbevel, and I tell you what, I think my life just got a whole lot easier! It's on a Dozier "whittler" knife. I set the microbevel by eyeballing it at about 40ish degrees with about 10 pps on the medium ceramic and then sharpened the microbevel using the ultra fine with about 10 pps. In a few minutes I got a level of sharpness that I struggled to get before, it pops hair off my body while just barely touching the skin. I think the key thing about the microbevel isn't so much that it toughens the apex but instead it severely reduces the need for angle consistency on your passes because the surface area of the new edge is so small, and you don't have to do nearly as much work to get superior results. I can't believe I've gone so long without having done this before.

I haven't noticed that Spyderco does a microbevel on their factory edges though, or Dozier for that matter. Do they?

[vivi]

I'm not aware of any factory knives using microbevels.

I think the key thing about the microbevel isn't so much that it toughens the apex but instead it severely reduces the need for angle consistency on your passes because the surface area of the new edge is so small, and you don't have to do nearly as much work to get superior results.

This, exactly this.

I can touch-up a knife from unable to scrape arm hair to hair whittling sharp in 30 seconds. That's why I don't care about edge retention much at all.

[Sharp Guy]

I can touch-up a knife from unable to scrape arm hair to hair whittling sharp in 30 seconds. That's why I don't care about edge retention much at all.

^ Well said! I feel the same way. I guess if I was using my knife at work all day I might feel differently. As long as I can touch up the micro-bevel fairly easily I'm happy.