Golden Spydies' countersunk/flush screws stripping.

[Wanimator]

I've done this in the past just by removing them to locktite the screws. I could barely get them in tight again. Has anybody else had this horrid problem?

[Jeff4034]

Here and there. A few days ago a clip screw for my Yo II just fell out. I "loctited" it ages ago and that's it. Noticed the clip was loose so I tried to tighten and it just wouldn't bite.

[Wanimator]

It really irritates me, and I think it's a flaw that needs to be fixed, I've had screws on cheaper knives that don't have ANY problems with their screws. I mean, 2 of the body screws have almost fully stripped, and I never fully disassembled the knife, all I did was remove them to Locktite them when they were coming out and put them back in, I just hope they never get loose.

[JD Spydo]

I've done this in the past just by removing them to locktite the screws. I could barely get them in tight again. Has anybody else had this horrid problem?

OK Brother you've got my attention and I"m always concerned about Spyders from the GOLDEN ERA>> but personally I've never had any particularly hard problems with the screws on many Spyderco models from any particular era.

The only screw problems I've had with Spyders from that era are the pocketclip screws of the C-44 Dyad but I did finally remedy that problem. Also the pocketclip screws on the older version of the C-60 Ayoob model kept coming loose as well>> but on those models I tried some lower grade LOCTITE and I had excellent luck from there.

Most of the Golden Era Spyders I've owned that I've worked on myself I found to be easy to fix for the most part. But hey I'm all ears but I wish you would specify which modes you all are speaking of???

[Wanimator]

Manix 2 XL being the worst, and I think I've seen the problem with some PM2's that people own. I'm starting to think it's the flush flat screws that are the issue. I haven't had problems with the pocket clip screws ever since I went to Wiha Torx, the other screws still just don't catch.

[Donut]

I thought this thread was a mispost, which was part of one of Golden Spydie (the user)'s threads.

http://www.spyderco.com/forumII/memberl ... le&u=24065" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[Wanimator]

Oh, sorry I forgot that was a user's name. I may have posted about this before, but it really gets on my nerves. And there's burrs on the top of the screws.

[Wanimator]

Okay, I may need to send it in for inspection or something because I tryed undoing the last unstripped one with a Wiha with a T9, didn't work, then a t8 which got more hold but didn't work either. This isn't right I have never had this problem, even remotely on MUCH cheaper knives, I hope this is a lemon.

[JD Spydo]

I thought this thread was a mispost, which was part of one of Golden Spydie (the user)'s threads.

http://www.spyderco.com/forumII/memberl ... le&u=24065" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Yeah I misunderstood the topic of the thread as well>> because I thought that he was making a point about GOLDEN ERA Spyders 1998-2003 having screw thread problems on those particular models>> sorry you guys that I interpreted it wrong :o But seriously I don't remember or have dealt with any particular time or era in which a large group of Spyderco folder models had notoriously bad screw problems. But it looks like someone has encountered it.

One thing I can say right up front is that the Warranty and Repair Department at Spyderco I'm sure can remedy the problem or give you all advice on what to do about it yourself.

But I did have problems with those 2 models I previously mentioned>> but do keep in mind that I put both of those blades through extremely hard use and my problems could have possibly been my own doing. But I did discover that certain grades of LOCTITE does work most of the time.

[Wanimator]

I don't feel like getting charged 35 bucks.

[Donut]

I've seen people be able to turn a screw that they were having trouble with by using a dremel to create a "flathead" slot. I haven't actually done it, so I can't give any more detail than that.

All of the flush screws that I've adjusted, they came with locktite from the factory. The factory isn't too consistent on how much locktite they give. Some have a little and some have a lot.

I stripped the pivot screw on my Yojimbo 2 a little bit while disassembling it (to install a trainer blade), but I'm 99% sure that was from me using a low quality tool that was already starting to wear. I stopped when I could feel that I wasn't getting anywhere. Getting and using a Wiha allowed me to finish what I started.

In my experience, the screws use a softer steel. I find that softer steel grips better and it does wear and bend faster, but I would rather have a screw head or threads get damaged than have the threads on the scales or on the pivot get damaged. Those are much more difficult to replace/fix. It seems like when the screw gives, that is my queue to stop using so much force and figure out what I'm doing wrong.

[Wanimator]

Heh, I don't think these screws are removable by the consumer. Bottom line is these screws acted like they weren't even heat treated, or were made of pot metal. The real problem to me is that there's a burr on a some of the screws from when the screw head gave (I could hardly feel a difference when they gave). The burr can sometimes rub against my finger during use.

[NoFair]

Never had an issue with them (taken apart 10+ knives with them), but I always heat the screws with a soldering iron if there seems to be enough locktite to make them hard to turn. On a T6/T8 there really isn't that much force you can use.. If you contact CS they might send you a screw or 5 :D

[Wanimator]

It's only 2 of the screws that are really an issue, they're in there for good unless I send it in or they loosen up and fall out. I suppose that's alright for now.

[timlara]

I can confirm that I've had this problem on some of my factory-second models from Golden, but I can excuse it in that case as I assume it's part of the reason they were seconds. I wanted to take apart a factory-second Yojimbo I have to see if I could improve the detent/action on it, but the screws are so damaged/stripped I can't get them out.

On non-seconds models, the screws haven't been so bad I can't turn them, but I've definitely seen some screw heads that were less than perfect as if they were overtightened and/or put in with a worn torx bit that was slipping or something. As long as the screws are still functional / not damaged, I don't mind that much, but it's definitely a little disappointing when it happens and it's something I've never seen happen on one of my Taichung models.

[Wanimator]

2 of the 4 are non functioning to me. Maybe with the right set of tools they could be worked, but I can't do anything about it.

[i am travvy]

I've had screws on my military fall out and the pivot screw always comes loose on my delica after just a few openings.. solved the military problem by buying some new screws online and havnt figured out the delica yet. I've even tried blue loctite with no success.

[Evil D]

The only ones I've stripped were obviously my fault and I felt it happen from over tightening. If it makes you all feel better the pivot BOLT on my ZT 0303 was stripped and it's far bigger than anything Spyderco uses.

[IndianaSpider]

Instead of using locktite for my screws I use Teflon tape to hold them in place. Seems to work well and is definitely less "permanent", the screws stay in place and can be taken out with less force than required for locktite. May help you out with screw problems in the future!

[Donut]

The only ones I've stripped were obviously my fault and I felt it happen from over tightening. If it makes you all feel better the pivot BOLT on my ZT 0303 was stripped and it's far bigger than anything Spyderco uses.

I thought those things were unbreakable. :)

I don't know how anyone can tolerate that. :p