I've enjoyed my Nilakka so much that when the Sports Authority had them for $125 over the weekend, I got a back up. My original Nilakka was born January 2013. The new Nilakka I received today was born May 2014. Both are a little different. Like Blade thickness, Blade thinness, Handle length, and weight to name a few. Overall I like my original early model better. Its lighter, has a keener tip, and shorter for better blade to handle ratio. But, that's just me. I just thought it interesting and wanted to note the differences through the forum for others to compare. Also, the latter Nilakka came with a white card that gives warnings against chopping, and other hard use chores to the edge. Thats cool as the Nilakka is built for speed? For lack of a better word. Kinda like a fine tuned Farrari. At any rate, Ill get on to the pic so y'all can see what Im talking about.
The difference in overall length really surprises me the most. Anyone know the story behind this? Did people just need more room for griping the knife
?
I'm not really sure swigert. Also, the action on mine is noticeably smoother. Now, that could just be because mine has been oiled and opened and closed more. However, I don't remember mine being as stiff (that's a bad word, because its really not) mine was just smoothest when new.
I know S110V is very popular right now, but to be honest, I would not buy a S110V version.
I would much rather get a Nilakka with a steel that is designed for high edge stability and to hold high sharpness for a long time than such a thin high carbide one.
Hans Favourite Spydies: Military S90V, PM2 Cruwear, Siren LC200N, UKPK S110V, Endela Wharncliffe K390 Others: Victorinox Pioneer, CRK: L Sebenza, L Inkosi, Umnumzaan
I know S110V is very popular right now, but to be honest, I would not buy a S110V version.
I would much rather get a Nilakka with a steel that is designed for high edge stability and to hold high sharpness for a long time than such a thin high carbide one.
Maybe we have different definitions of high level of sharpness but I've had nothing but amazing results with my Manix. It has held a shaving edge longer than anything I've owned.
I think the new version with added thickness has lost part of the original spirit but it's true you can have problems with edge stability in the zero grind S30V blade. If you put a microbevel it's enough to have a wonderful cutter when hard work isn't required.
I know S110V is very popular right now, but to be honest, I would not buy a S110V version.
I would much rather get a Nilakka with a steel that is designed for high edge stability and to hold high sharpness for a long time than such a thin high carbide one.
Maybe we have different definitions of high level of sharpness but I've had nothing but amazing results with my Manix. It has held a shaving edge longer than anything I've owned.
Maybe... In my experience, both my S110V Native and Manix lose their shaving ability fairly quickly, but then keep on cutting at a low sharpness for a long time after that. I tend to sharpen soon after the shaving sharpness disappears.
In general, my Superblues and M4's hold that high sharpness a few times longer than the S110V blades. I think that's why I am enjoying the Stretch so much.
My main concern with S110V is chipping. Especially with a zero-grind like the Nilakka. When I look at the history of the Nilakka, and the initial edge stability issues it had at those very low angles with S30V, I think its safe to say that you will see much more of those same issues with S110V.
I still need to get a Nilakka, it's high on the have-to-get list. But only after I found a backup SB Stretch... :p
Hans Favourite Spydies: Military S90V, PM2 Cruwear, Siren LC200N, UKPK S110V, Endela Wharncliffe K390 Others: Victorinox Pioneer, CRK: L Sebenza, L Inkosi, Umnumzaan
I've got 204p,m4,S30V, 10v,and VG10. All very sharp. But the one I handle with extreme care is that **** 10V K2. That knife will bite ya.
I'm not saying its better or worse at edge holding or anything, just its the sharpest I have.