Again : Plain Edge or Spyder Edge & why
- AllenETreat
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Again : Plain Edge or Spyder Edge & why
To : ALL
Let's take a good look at ourselves forumite(s) : Which is it? Plain Edge or Spyder Edge? And why so?
Me : Spyder Edge <img src="wink.gif" width=15 height=15 align=middle border=0> seems to cut better.
ATE <img src="wink.gif" width=15 height=15 align=middle border=0>
Edited by - ATE on 11/11/2002 9:24:51 PM
Let's take a good look at ourselves forumite(s) : Which is it? Plain Edge or Spyder Edge? And why so?
Me : Spyder Edge <img src="wink.gif" width=15 height=15 align=middle border=0> seems to cut better.
ATE <img src="wink.gif" width=15 height=15 align=middle border=0>
Edited by - ATE on 11/11/2002 9:24:51 PM
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- vampyrewolf
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- Knife Knut
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I usually carry 3-4 knives on me on any given day, all of them are PE... I just find it easier to maintain, and it works more than sufficiently for any task I need to accomplish.
I have only played with PS and SE knives a little though, and have done no head to head comparisons... Maybe I should try some in the future when I get a chance...
I have only played with PS and SE knives a little though, and have done no head to head comparisons... Maybe I should try some in the future when I get a chance...
SE cuts better, PE is more versatile
I prefer SE blades in 'specialty' blade forms like sheepsfoot and hawksbill (Rescue and Merlin).
I feel that drop point and clip point styles are more useful in PE form. The convex curve of these forms provides the user with different parts of the blade to use for different tasks. For example, when carving fuzz sticks, I use the blade near the hilt, when carving fine detail, I use the blade near the tip.
SE cuts only one way: aggressively, so it doesn't utilize the belly and point like a PE. Sheepsfoot and hawksbill blades put the serrations towards the material. This is in contrast with an SE drop point, where the serrations rise away from the material, requiring the user to flex the wrist to complete the cut.
As for CE blades, there's a fine balance. I think they can offer the best of both worlds, but only if they have enough of PE and SE portions. My current EDC is a CE Native. It has very little PE, and therefore I don't use it as a PE blade. I consider it to be an SE. The CE millie, however, appears to have enough of both edges. Even the CE progrip seems to have the best of both worlds.
Those have been my experiences with SE and PE.
Praise not the day before evening has come, a sword before it is tried, ice before it has been crossed, and beer before until it is drunk.
I prefer SE blades in 'specialty' blade forms like sheepsfoot and hawksbill (Rescue and Merlin).
I feel that drop point and clip point styles are more useful in PE form. The convex curve of these forms provides the user with different parts of the blade to use for different tasks. For example, when carving fuzz sticks, I use the blade near the hilt, when carving fine detail, I use the blade near the tip.
SE cuts only one way: aggressively, so it doesn't utilize the belly and point like a PE. Sheepsfoot and hawksbill blades put the serrations towards the material. This is in contrast with an SE drop point, where the serrations rise away from the material, requiring the user to flex the wrist to complete the cut.
As for CE blades, there's a fine balance. I think they can offer the best of both worlds, but only if they have enough of PE and SE portions. My current EDC is a CE Native. It has very little PE, and therefore I don't use it as a PE blade. I consider it to be an SE. The CE millie, however, appears to have enough of both edges. Even the CE progrip seems to have the best of both worlds.
Those have been my experiences with SE and PE.
Praise not the day before evening has come, a sword before it is tried, ice before it has been crossed, and beer before until it is drunk.
PE,I have found that a sharp PE will cut everything and more that a SE will.Most things I cut needs to be a fine straight cut.Although if I cut a lot of heavey rope or seat belt material I would rather have a SE.SE would also be better for self defence and rescue work.I have one SE and 2 CE out of my 13 spydies.
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I prefer PE because the vast majority of my knife use is just good old normal pocketknife stuff: scraping, scratching, fiddling, slicing, poking, carving, etc. And for that, I prefer the versatility of a plain edge. I can't remember EVER having to hack through a rope or seatbelt or netting, or needing to thrust with my blade in a street fight. Now, I'm very confident that my Endura would be up to these tasks in a pinch ... but as I said, my main concern is carrying a knife that, IMO, is optimal for the tasks that I encounter every day.
Edited by - mnblade on 11/13/2002 2:34:26 PM
Edited by - mnblade on 11/13/2002 2:34:26 PM
There are some things that a SE will be margenally better than a PE (I once had to cut a thick garden house and the SE Harpy went through it like it wasn't there), but there are some things that a SE will have significant trouble with.
The two things that I have to cut most often are paper and cuttine off small branches, both are more difficult with a SE.
I do sometimes carry a SE, but if I do I'll always also have a PE with me.
Walk softly, carry a big stick.
The two things that I have to cut most often are paper and cuttine off small branches, both are more difficult with a SE.
I do sometimes carry a SE, but if I do I'll always also have a PE with me.
Walk softly, carry a big stick.
- AllenETreat
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I find that combo edge ( CE or P&S ) is the BEST compromise.
A fact : Some military knives are
"combo edge" <img src="wink.gif" width=15 height=15 align=middle border=0>
( My Mili is configured thus <img src="wink.gif" width=15 height=15 align=middle border=0>)
ATE <img src="wink.gif" width=15 height=15 align=middle border=0>
A fact : Some military knives are
"combo edge" <img src="wink.gif" width=15 height=15 align=middle border=0>
( My Mili is configured thus <img src="wink.gif" width=15 height=15 align=middle border=0>)
ATE <img src="wink.gif" width=15 height=15 align=middle border=0>
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Most of my knives are PE or CE. I very rarely have the need for a fully serrated edge. I prefer to buy CE when possible, but if it's a choice between PE and SE, PE wins. I'd still love to see a Viele in a CE.
Sorry about the screen name change, but the former screen name was a little revealing.
<img src="spyder.gif" width=15 height=15 align=middle border=0> <img src="smile.gif" width=15 height=15 align=middle border=0>
Sorry about the screen name change, but the former screen name was a little revealing.
<img src="spyder.gif" width=15 height=15 align=middle border=0> <img src="smile.gif" width=15 height=15 align=middle border=0>
- vampyrewolf
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Most CE knives aren't long enough to fully utilize the edges. The Millie does it right, giving 2.5" of PE, 1.5" of SE...
My Native(FRN) is also CE, but may as well be SE, with about 1/2" of PE tip. Perfect bread/bagel sclicer though. I eat a lot of fresh panini buns(I buy them at the grocery store for $2.50/dozen), and the SE of the Native is just the right size for cutting through.
My normal carry(for the last 3 months):
Millie CE(R/F)
Calypso jr lt PE(IWB/R or Watch/R)
Merlin PE(L/F)
Native FRN CE(Belt/L/H)
Spydiecard PE(R/Cargo, in wallet)
*Our greatest triumph comes not from NOT falling down, but from getting back up every time.*
My Native(FRN) is also CE, but may as well be SE, with about 1/2" of PE tip. Perfect bread/bagel sclicer though. I eat a lot of fresh panini buns(I buy them at the grocery store for $2.50/dozen), and the SE of the Native is just the right size for cutting through.
My normal carry(for the last 3 months):
Millie CE(R/F)
Calypso jr lt PE(IWB/R or Watch/R)
Merlin PE(L/F)
Native FRN CE(Belt/L/H)
Spydiecard PE(R/Cargo, in wallet)
*Our greatest triumph comes not from NOT falling down, but from getting back up every time.*
- dialex
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I only had one CE (a BM clone). It was working pretty fair. I think that a bigger knife would work better with CE (Endura or Millie), as you have plenty of both edges.
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- AllenETreat
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ATE - Sorry,but I am confused. "Which is it? Plain Edge or Spyder Edge?"
I don't understand. What do you mean "or"???
<img src="tongue.gif" width=15 height=15 align=middle border=0><img src="tongue.gif" width=15 height=15 align=middle border=0><img src="spyder.gif" width=15 height=15 align=middle border=0><img src="spyder.gif" width=15 height=15 align=middle border=0><img src="tongue.gif" width=15 height=15 align=middle border=0><img src="tongue.gif" width=15 height=15 align=middle border=0>
Both of course. One of each. Hmmmm....
Ok, <b><i>SEVERAL </b> </i> of each <img src="smile.gif" width=15 height=15 align=middle border=0><img src="spyder.gif" width=15 height=15 align=middle border=0><img src="smile.gif" width=15 height=15 align=middle border=0>
Chuck
There is no right way to do a wrong thing
I don't understand. What do you mean "or"???
<img src="tongue.gif" width=15 height=15 align=middle border=0><img src="tongue.gif" width=15 height=15 align=middle border=0><img src="spyder.gif" width=15 height=15 align=middle border=0><img src="spyder.gif" width=15 height=15 align=middle border=0><img src="tongue.gif" width=15 height=15 align=middle border=0><img src="tongue.gif" width=15 height=15 align=middle border=0>
Both of course. One of each. Hmmmm....
Ok, <b><i>SEVERAL </b> </i> of each <img src="smile.gif" width=15 height=15 align=middle border=0><img src="spyder.gif" width=15 height=15 align=middle border=0><img src="smile.gif" width=15 height=15 align=middle border=0>
Chuck
There is no right way to do a wrong thing