...and I have a NIB Manix 2 LW S110V in stock.....just in case...... I would like to test the pocket performance as an EDC.....
Options backed up....what more can I say....
:D
Manix 2 LW Conversion Completed
I had a similar thought, but I'm unwilling to tear down my CPM M4 (which is the only Manix I've got with the skeletonized liners).Donut wrote:No, that's why I was hoping to swap the blade onto my BD30P Manix. =\
Yesterday one of my instructors was bored and he sat at my desk and swapped my red/black Anso style scales onto my EDC Manix 2, and it got me thinking about the possibilities.
My XL is about the same weight as my standard, and the only difference (besides size, of course) is that the XL has skeletonized liners.Evil D wrote:They do drop some weight but still noticeably heavier than the FRN version. We need a solid G10 with those tiny liners around the pivot like the FRN version has and nothing more. Give it a wire clip and it would probably be about the same weight or very close.
Agreed. The clip mounting method used on the FRN Salts would also work in linerless G-10, wouldn't it? Just not 4-way.ASmitty wrote:I couldn't agree with this more. G10 is such a rigid material that liners are more a hinderance than a helper IMO. I'd love to see more linerless G10 as well. And if you use a wire clip, you really don't even need the mini-liners for clip screws.
Brock O Lee wrote:I agree... G10 is incredibly strong, and light weight. We just need those mini liners to hold screw threads. I wish there was more linerless G10 knives around.
ASmitty wrote:I couldn't agree with this more. G10 is such a rigid material that liners are more a hinderance than a helper IMO. I'd love to see more linerless G10 as well. And if you use a wire clip, you really don't even need the mini-liners for clip screws.
Maybe you two haven't seen this pic, the liners I'm referring to are the wee little guys that only go around the pivot and stop pin. Add those to G10 and nothing else. Use a wire clip so you don't need a liner to tap screws into.
The little liners are between the washers on the right. You can see in the molded FRN where they go.
Yeah I totally understand why you did it, I was just referring to another post. Probably could make some money doing it, if someone wanted to take the time. It's tempting, as I have a spare set of skeletonized liners I've been saving for a special occasion..MadRookie wrote:To me it was not about profit margins.
I did it to build a knife to my liking - even at a loss.
My converted Manix 2 G10 S110V version is being pimped as we speak..... will keep you informed....
:)
All SE all the time since 2017
~David
~David
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Brock O Lee
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Im totally with you, less is more...Evil D wrote:Maybe you two haven't seen this pic, the liners I'm referring to are the wee little guys that only go around the pivot and stop pin. Add those to G10 and nothing else. Use a wire clip so you don't need a liner to tap screws into.
Hans
Favourite Spydies: Military, PM2, Shaman, UKPK
Others: Victorinox Pioneer, CRK L Sebenza 31, CRK L Inkosi
Favourite Spydies: Military, PM2, Shaman, UKPK
Others: Victorinox Pioneer, CRK L Sebenza 31, CRK L Inkosi
When I got my first skeletonized version (M4 sprint) I have to say I was pretty let down by the weight. It was lighter than the standard version, but still noticeably heavier than the Para 2. I've never been hung up on weight, and it won't stop me from owning and using a knife, but in most cases I do prefer a lighter knife if it can be equally as strong. My point is just that even adding skeletonized liners to the G10 version doesn't quite make it a "lightweight". Lighter yes, but still a good bit heavier than the FRN lightweight.TomAiello wrote:My XL is about the same weight as my standard, and the only difference (besides size, of course) is that the XL has skeletonized liners.
All SE all the time since 2017
~David
~David
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Mobile FireLord
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- Location: WA
Oh well, I'll try to find them.
What an amazing project!
:spyder: C101PBL2, C54GPBN, C154PBK, MGREP, JGGYP, C75P3, C36TIP, C113GPGY, C127GPOR, C85GPBL, C11SBK, C10SBK, C11TR, C10TR, C28S (Wharncliffe mod), C11TIPD, C12GS, FB15P, C110GPBL, C85GP2, C141CFP, FB14P3Z, C123GPBL, C88PYL, KO4PBK, C105BMP
"For we wrestle not against flesh and blood, but against principalities, against powers, against the rulers of the darkness of this world, against spiritual wickedness in high places...Wherefore take unto you the whole armour of God." Ephesians 6:12-13
"For we wrestle not against flesh and blood, but against principalities, against powers, against the rulers of the darkness of this world, against spiritual wickedness in high places...Wherefore take unto you the whole armour of God." Ephesians 6:12-13
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RadioactiveSpyder
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- Location: Lost in space
Most excellent completion of the swap there MadRookie, you made it look (somewhat!) easy. I have a pink Manix sprint hrs I was thinking of RIT dyeing the scales burgundy and doing the S110V blade swap, but that one has full liners. I am really enjoying the FRN scales too, so I'm in a holding pattern I guess... Beautiful work! Cheers, Radioactive :)
It's better to be good than evil, but one achieves goodness at a terrific cost. ––– Stephen King
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SpeedHoles
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Re: Manix 2 LW Conversion Completed
Legit Mod. Worthy of a bump here. Just saw a link here from another thread.
Great work. Subscribing for future reference.
Great work. Subscribing for future reference.
Going back to Caly.
Re: Manix 2 LW Conversion Completed
After reading through, I too am tempted to do this mod.
Not really wishing to swop anything but just to drill out the rivets for convenience when blood and gore enters the locking mechanism via the gaps by the Ball Lock button and open it up for a proper cleaning.
.......but having problems with finding the size and availability of the rivet replacements.
Was there a step by step guild ?
Are there more info (required items/size/tools etc etc) for this mod ? If so a link would be much appreciated.
On a last note, all Manix 2 Light-weight knivies have FRCP handles rather than the incorrectly mentioned FRN.
Not really wishing to swop anything but just to drill out the rivets for convenience when blood and gore enters the locking mechanism via the gaps by the Ball Lock button and open it up for a proper cleaning.
.......but having problems with finding the size and availability of the rivet replacements.
Was there a step by step guild ?
Are there more info (required items/size/tools etc etc) for this mod ? If so a link would be much appreciated.
On a last note, all Manix 2 Light-weight knivies have FRCP handles rather than the incorrectly mentioned FRN.