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Rust removal without scratching blade

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Strong-Dog
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Rust removal without scratching blade

Postby Strong-Dog » Sat Feb 08, 2014 1:44 pm

I have noticed some rust spotting around the thumbhole of my Gayle Bradley. I have removed rust from other knives in the past with oil and a scotchbrite pad, but it has always left small scratches on the blade. Is there a way to remove the rust without marking the beautiful CPM-M4 blade?
"For a second, I thought I was dead, but when I heard all the noise I knew they were cops. Only cops talk that way. If they had been wiseguys, I wouldn't have heard a thing. I would've been dead."

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Mike9x19
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Postby Mike9x19 » Sat Feb 08, 2014 1:54 pm

I use a buffing wheel and some black or green compound depending on the level of rust. I got my buffing wheel at Harbor Freight on the cheap and it does the job just fine.
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Postby The Deacon » Sat Feb 08, 2014 2:05 pm

Naval Jelly?
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Postby Strong-Dog » Sat Feb 08, 2014 2:07 pm

Mike9x19 wrote:I use a buffing wheel and some black or green compound depending on the level of rust. I got my buffing wheel at Harbor Freight on the cheap and it does the job just fine.
Thanks, do you think I could substitute green compound with flitz?
"For a second, I thought I was dead, but when I heard all the noise I knew they were cops. Only cops talk that way. If they had been wiseguys, I wouldn't have heard a thing. I would've been dead."

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Mike157
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Postby Mike157 » Sat Feb 08, 2014 2:18 pm

I've successfully used something called Super Eraser. I believe I purchased it from Baryonyx Knife Company. It is a small rubber like, rectangular, mildly abrasive block. The package states that it leaves a fine satin finish. I've only used it on very light rust and the blades already had a satin, tumbled, or brushed-like finish so no additional marks were left. I have also used Simichrome and Flitz where appropriate. Mike
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WorkingEdge
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Postby WorkingEdge » Sat Feb 08, 2014 2:46 pm

The Deacon wrote:Naval Jelly?
Did that to my GB last yr. turns the blade darker (as in acid washing). Didn't like the look so have been sanding it off
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mattman
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Postby mattman » Sat Feb 08, 2014 2:55 pm

Isn't this where many have had success polishing with toothpaste?
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Postby wrdwrght » Sat Feb 08, 2014 2:57 pm

I find Flitz slow but gentle.
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Strong-Dog
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Postby Strong-Dog » Sat Feb 08, 2014 3:07 pm

mattman wrote:Isn't this where many have had success polishing with toothpaste?
Ill try that, thanks
"For a second, I thought I was dead, but when I heard all the noise I knew they were cops. Only cops talk that way. If they had been wiseguys, I wouldn't have heard a thing. I would've been dead."

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Officer Gigglez
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Postby Officer Gigglez » Sat Feb 08, 2014 4:24 pm

Try Toothpaste. A wise man on these forums issued that idea.
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-Persistence Blue, PE
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Officer Gigglez
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Postby Officer Gigglez » Sat Feb 08, 2014 4:24 pm

mattman wrote:Isn't this where many have had success polishing with toothpaste?
Yes. I am one. It works pretty **** good.
Spyderco Knives (in order of obtainment):
-Tenacious, Combo edge
-Tasman Salt, PE
-Persistence Blue, PE
-Pacific Salt, Black, PE
-Delica 4, Emerson Grey
-DiAlex Junior
-Byrd SS Crossbill, PE
-Endura 4 Emerson Grey
-Byrd Meadowlark 2 FRN, PE
-Resilience
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Holland
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Postby Holland » Sat Feb 08, 2014 4:40 pm

toothpaste was my first thought as well
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Tally-ho
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Postby Tally-ho » Sat Feb 08, 2014 5:11 pm

Strong-Dog wrote:I have removed rust from other knives in the past with oil and a scotchbrite pad, but it has always left small scratches on the blade. Is there a way to remove the rust without marking the beautiful CPM-M4 blade?
Scotchbrite is quite agressive for steel, particulary when it is new, hence it is used to make brushed steel finish.

It is better to replace it with steel wool that is softer than hardened steel, then generally it will not leave scratches. I'm using extra fine grade (#00000) all the time to restore old straight razors (softer steels than M4) or to clean enamel surfaces and never noticed scratches.
Do a test before on a small area.
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Mike9x19
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Postby Mike9x19 » Sat Feb 08, 2014 6:07 pm

Strong-Dog wrote:Thanks, do you think I could substitute green compound with flitz?
I have never tried it, but I don't see why not. The nice thing about having the polishing wheel is that you can polish other blades after you are done fixing this one.n
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CallsThunder
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Postby CallsThunder » Sat Feb 08, 2014 10:41 pm

A Mr. Clean Magic Eraser works well for me.
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Strong-Dog
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Postby Strong-Dog » Sat Feb 08, 2014 11:15 pm

I used toothpaste and a microfiber rag, and it worked brilliantly. Thanks for the idea guys
"For a second, I thought I was dead, but when I heard all the noise I knew they were cops. Only cops talk that way. If they had been wiseguys, I wouldn't have heard a thing. I would've been dead."

-Henry Hill
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CanadaDude
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Postby CanadaDude » Sun Feb 09, 2014 11:05 am

Baking soda and a wet toothbrush,works perfectly.
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JNewell
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Postby JNewell » Sun Feb 09, 2014 11:09 am

WorkingEdge wrote:Did that to my GB last yr. turns the blade darker (as in acid washing). Didn't like the look so have been sanding it off
It's the phosphoric acid. I have had a lot of bad experiences with Naval Jelly. I wouldn't use it on anything other than cast iron pipe, and then only on the inside. ;)
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Mike9x19
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Postby Mike9x19 » Sun Feb 09, 2014 12:38 pm

Strong-Dog wrote:I used toothpaste and a microfiber rag, and it worked brilliantly. Thanks for the idea guys
Glad to hear it worked out! This is a great place to get some advice.
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