Manix 2 questions

[Pestilence11]

I just bought a regular production Manix 2 (C101GP2) and I'm curious about the pivot screw. Out of the box it was a little stiff so I played around with the screw and it dropped closed. The only problem is it introduced some horizontal play.

I then decided to go the other way and tighten it further than out of the box and it bound the blade very tight, to the point that it was difficult to close or open with even two hands.

Is there something I should do to loosen it up? Oil? Repeated opening and closing seems to have no affect (Probably opened and closed a few hundred times by now)

[Blerv]

I would tighten it until it's tight but easily one-handable. It should get a bit looser over time and the action should improve with a bit of grease or oil. There might be grit in the pivot.

[chuck_roxas45]

I would tighten it until it's tight but easily one-handable. It should get a bit looser over time and the action should improve with a bit of grease or oil. There might be grit in the pivot.

Yup, there's a sweet spot.

[Pestilence11]

Oh I kept reading online that the way the bushing is, no matter how much you tightened the pivot screw it would have no affect on blade action. I was starting to worry I got a defective one or something.

[Donut]

I adjust the pivot until when I'm holding it horizontal, it drops to straight down and doesn't swing. That's where I like mine at.

[Blerv]

Oh I kept reading online that the way the bushing is, no matter how much you tightened the pivot screw it would have no affect on blade action. I was starting to worry I got a defective one or something.

The pivot bushing is a bit confusing to me. I understand it to be somewhat of a hybrid with the standard pivot and Chris Reeves style. In my experience there is some adjustment, just not sure as much as the traditional style.

I'm sure someone who has disassembled one will chime in. :)

[JNewell]

Oh I kept reading online that the way the bushing is, no matter how much you tightened the pivot screw it would have no affect on blade action. I was starting to worry I got a defective one or something.

The pivot bushing is a bit confusing to me. I understand it to be somewhat of a hybrid with the standard pivot and Chris Reeves style. In my experience there is some adjustment, just not sure as much as the traditional style.

I'm sure someone who has disassembled one will chime in. :)

The Manix 2 and Para 2 pivots don't have bushings. They're a one-piece pivot that is stepped at each end. In theory, if Spyderco could hit 0.0001" tolerances with absolute repeatability, the stepped pivot would allow you to tighten the pivot screws fully and still have just the right degree of blade action. If that were possible, it would have a similar practical result as the bushing in the Sebenza, at least in terms of reassembly. In real life, however, Spyderco doesn't hit those tolerances, and some are a little undersized (like yours) and some are a little oversized (so lateral play cannot be eliminated without replacing or modifying the pivot to reduce the thickness of the center portion).

The bushing in the Sebenza pivot arguably also has lower friction as the blade moves around the pivot, but honestly I doubt you'd notice that in real life (and I speak as the owner of more than a dozen CRK folders, mostly Sebenzas).

[Pestilence11]

The Manix 2 and Para 2 pivots don't have bushings. They're a one-piece pivot that is stepped at each end. In theory, if Spyderco could hit 0.0001" tolerances with absolute repeatability, the stepped pivot would allow you to tighten the pivot screws fully and still have just the right degree of blade action. If that were possible, it would have a similar practical result as the bushing in the Sebenza, at least in terms of reassembly. In real life, however, Spyderco doesn't hit those tolerances, and some are a little undersized (like yours) and some are a little oversized (so lateral play cannot be eliminated without replacing or modifying the pivot to reduce the thickness of the center portion).

The bushing in the Sebenza pivot arguably also has lower friction as the blade moves around the pivot, but honestly I doubt you'd notice that in real life (and I speak as the owner of more than a dozen CRK folders, mostly Sebenzas).

Thanks to you and everyone that responded. Should I expect anything in the future with a slight undersized pivot?

[Per-Sev]

Thanks to you and everyone that responded. Should I expect anything in the future with a slight undersized pivot?

I say if the pivot screws are still turning with enough resistance that they won't loosen up then adjust it to how you like it and leave it alone, if the screws turn very easy you might want to reapply some thread lock to them so it won't come out of adjustment. All the Spyderco's I have, have thread lock on the pivot screws and if you mess with them to much you might need to reapply it. I know once I set mine how I like it they usually don't change unless the pivot screw loosens up so that's why the loctite is used.

[wolfgaze]

Enjoy your new knife.... I love mine... It's a beast....

[JNewell]

Thanks to you and everyone that responded. Should I expect anything in the future with a slight undersized pivot?

Loctite? :D Slightly undersized is better than slightly oversized. Adjust the pivot screws to your desired blade action and use a little blue #242 Loctite to keep the screws from backing out over time - you're good to go. :spyder: It's a good system, but it's not a Sebenza, and Sal Glesser is the first to say so - on the other hand, look at the P2 and M2 prices and judge value for yourself. :)

[Fresh Eddie Fresh]

Mine was a little stiff right out of the box, but with use it loosened up quite a bit over time. I never touched the pivot on any of mine.