Rust on Super Blue?
Rust on Super Blue?
I'm sucker for aging things, like my brass zippo, leather and denim. When I received my Caly 3 Super Blue, I am definitely going to let it patina naturally. I am going to apply Tuf-Glide to the pivot area and part of the tang. I'm concerned about the potential of rust forming though. I've been researching about rust on Super Blue and haven't really found anything (maybe that's the answer to my question :P).
Does patina eventually lead to rust? Is running water and wiping the blade enough after each use? Basically, I want the patina and a great amount of it, but with zero rust. Is that possible?
Thanks guys!
Does patina eventually lead to rust? Is running water and wiping the blade enough after each use? Basically, I want the patina and a great amount of it, but with zero rust. Is that possible?
Thanks guys!
You should be fine, Dub. Just don't 'ride 'er hard and put 'er up wet'
SB will begin to patina very quickly, then kinda level off at a light/med grey. If you want the really dark look, you'll probably have to manipulate it.
Unless you're using it for food, I'd put some Tuf-Glide over the blade once you get it where you like it. Just gives you an extra layer of protection.
Ken
SB will begin to patina very quickly, then kinda level off at a light/med grey. If you want the really dark look, you'll probably have to manipulate it.
Unless you're using it for food, I'd put some Tuf-Glide over the blade once you get it where you like it. Just gives you an extra layer of protection.
Ken
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- SolidState
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I've used my superblue blades quite extensively, and a patina is the best way to keep them up in my opinion. Without patina, they require constant vigilance in order to avoid rust - unless you burnish them, and then you only have to be moderately vigilant. With patina, you can oil them normally.
"Nothing is so fatal to the progress of the human mind as to suppose that our views of science are ultimate; that there are no mysteries in nature; that our triumphs are complete, and that there are no new worlds to conquer."
Sir Humphry Davy
Sir Humphry Davy
How would you burnish it?SolidState wrote:I've used my superblue blades quite extensively, and a patina is the best way to keep them up in my opinion. Without patina, they require constant vigilance in order to avoid rust - unless you burnish them, and then you only have to be moderately vigilant. With patina, you can oil them normally.
Inquiring minds
Ken
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I had problems with rust and pitting on my 3.5 after I had developed a solid patina on the blade, while it may inhibit rust it most certainly will not be "rust proof". I gave the blade a high polish and keep it well oiled when not in use, rust has never come back and I doubt it ever will. SB is very easy to polish to a mirror, something to consider if you have patina or rust problems as I did.
I see, said the blind man.
I'd have thought that, as long as it isn't an actual rust-spot, that any oxidation would be a microscopic layer over the steel's edge. In that case it might make the cutting edge minutely rougher and might actually make it cut better ... more saw-like? Just a thought.buckthorn wrote:Is the edge after it's discolored less sharp than it was when it was bright (assuming, for the purpose of discussion, that the cutting that created the discoloration didn't cause dulling).
I prefer polished knives so I think I'd be going for a burnished look if I had some super-blue. Would be nice to have a UKPK FRN in super-blue ... just sayin'
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- SolidState
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Hi Ken,
You would have to get a burnishing rod or burnishing tool that's harder than superblue. You can generally even use the rounded-off back end of a boride drill bit to burnish steels. Burnishing is generally how you shine the fullers on japanese styled large blades.
You would have to get a burnishing rod or burnishing tool that's harder than superblue. You can generally even use the rounded-off back end of a boride drill bit to burnish steels. Burnishing is generally how you shine the fullers on japanese styled large blades.
"Nothing is so fatal to the progress of the human mind as to suppose that our views of science are ultimate; that there are no mysteries in nature; that our triumphs are complete, and that there are no new worlds to conquer."
Sir Humphry Davy
Sir Humphry Davy
Patina will form on your Super Blue steel as you use it. My only gripe was that after moving to Houston, my Caly 3.5 SB began to have very slight pitting. Again, it was not red rust but it made me concerned. I decided that I did not want to have to worry about maintaining my EDC knife (Houston summers are incredibly humid) so I sold my SB and got a Caly 3.5 in VG10.
If you don't live in an area with high humidity and near salt water, I would say to go get the Caly 3.5 in SB. The steel is so cool. It patina's very nicely, great hues of blue, and it sharpens up like a dream. With very little effort, you can get an incredibly sharp edge.
If you don't live in an area with high humidity and near salt water, I would say to go get the Caly 3.5 in SB. The steel is so cool. It patina's very nicely, great hues of blue, and it sharpens up like a dream. With very little effort, you can get an incredibly sharp edge.