VG-10 micro chipping?

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uncleduncle
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VG-10 micro chipping?

#1

Post by uncleduncle »

Hi, This is my first post. I recently bought an Edge Pro Apex and since I got it. I sharpened my Dragonfly 2 to a mirror edge. Since doing that, I got what looks to be a micro-chip in the edge of the blade. Based on what I know about VG-10 it seems like it more often bends than breaks. Could it be a "Micro-dent"?

It either hasn't happened before or I haven't noticed because it was never this smooth looking, but has anyone experienced this with polished edges on VG-10?
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SolidState
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#2

Post by SolidState »

Do you have a loupe or other method of going to 10x or 20x magnification? That's the only way to really tell.
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uncleduncle
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#3

Post by uncleduncle »

I have a 20x loupe, but I really can't tell. I guess it doesn't make a huge difference what it is, but I guess the main question would be: Would a polished edge become any more fragile or would it just look to be that way since the edge has much less visible scratches with a polished edge?

Side note: It is profiled at 36 degrees inclusive (18 per side)
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phaust
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#4

Post by phaust »

Spyderco's VG10 definitely seems to chip more than bend in my experience.
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#5

Post by phillipsted »

I keep VG10 at the stock 30 degree backbevel and have a good-sized 40 degree edge bevel. This seems to reduce edge deformation and chipping for me. VG10 is an excellent steel, but it doesn't respond to thin edges like ZDP-189 does...

TedP
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VG-10 does me fine

#6

Post by JD Spydo »

phaust wrote:Spyderco's VG10 definitely seems to chip more than bend in my experience.
I've had just the opposite experiences myself. I've had far more chipping problems with S30V as I have VG-10 :confused: But hey I'm not at all disputing you because there is a lot variables in all kinds of blade steels.

The one thing I've always loved about my VG-10 Spyders and I own many of them spanning from the early 2000s till now>> is that I've had more dependability with that blade steel in everyday uses than just about any other. I had several of Spyderco's S30V bladed knives and I had chipping problems with more than one of them.

ATS-34 was another blade steel of Spyderco's I had some minor chipping problems with but it was only 2 blades I experienced it on and one of them was made in Taiwan ( Ti Salsa).

The one S30V model that I haven't had chipping problems with are my Dodo models for whatever reason.

VG-10 is my #1 go to everyday use blade steel so far.
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#7

Post by Cliff Stamp »

JD Spydo wrote:I've had just the opposite experiences myself. I've had far more chipping problems with S30V as I have VG-10 :confused: But hey I'm not at all disputing you because there is a lot variables in all kinds of blade steels.
Chipping is one of the most variable aspects of performance even if you do everything yourself because of the extreme differences in loading even doing the same task. I sat down one day just to answer the question that someone asked if you could do a certain task with a knife and after about 30 minutes of doing it and seeing everything from no effect to complete primary grind blowout the answer was yes/no and everything in between.

It takes a huge difference in steels to be able to get any kind of agreement. Most/all people would agree that in general 5160 is tougher than D2 for example, but when you factor in HT there is so much variation that you can get people (Buck Hoodlum vs Kershaw Outcast) who experience D2 being far tougher than 5160.
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Blerv
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#8

Post by Blerv »

I don't know as much as half the folks here but have had VG10 chip on me. Funny enough I was using a serrated rescue type knife to cut a 3 day old French baguette. The crust was extremely hard and I was cutting it length wise for some stupid reason. The scallops all small chips when I was done.

My understanding is that if you surpass the elastic range of a steel it will either chip or roll/dent. Depending on what you cut, how hard you were pressing, the direction of the cut, and the angle of the steel itself the results can vary. Again, way past my education there are internal factors that may apply such as potential impurities or previous stresses to the steel.

In my experience VG10 is very forgiving. It rolls far more than ZDP-189. Estimations of behavior are not guarantees.
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#9

Post by Commendatore »

Funny to hear of a similar outcome of the struggle VG10 vs old bread!
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uncleduncle
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#10

Post by uncleduncle »

Thanks for all the responses. I figured someone would have had it chip, but normally it has just become dull and not usually chip on me. Although I'm sure it wouldn't chip as much as S30V. Just wondering if anyone had experienced chips in it as well. I have a ZDP dragonfly as well, I baby that one though because I hear so much about ZDP chipping.
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#11

Post by w3tnz »

uncleduncle wrote:Thanks for all the responses. I figured someone would have had it chip, but normally it has just become dull and not usually chip on me.
Yeah I had some chipping with VG-10 run at 30deg inclusive, but it holds up very well with a 40deg micro bevel, in my use I have found s30v is much more prone to chipping and zdp even more so. On the note of polished edge vs coarse edge I find polished edges actually chip less, if the bevels are equal - same knife.
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#12

Post by Zenith »

Does anyone have any photos of the chipping they mention.

At what angle did you experience the chipping?
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uncleduncle
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#13

Post by uncleduncle »

Zenith wrote:Does anyone have any photos of the chipping they mention.

At what angle did you experience the chipping?
It was a 36 degree inclusive edge. I don't have any pictures though. It takes a 20x loupe to see the chip though.
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#14

Post by Zenith »

uncleduncle wrote:It was a 36 degree inclusive edge. I don't have any pictures though. It takes a 20x loupe to see the chip though.
Is this a new knife or have you sharpened it quite a bit already?

Reason:

There are a few factors that can lead to chipping in my experience. 1. To low angle for the steel (either edge or primary grind) 2. Burnt edge 3. Improper heat treat 4. Burr that chips off 5. Wrong steel for application. This can be one on its own or a combination of some that leads to chipping.

The edge might have been burned when sharpening on a belt from the factory. This happens easier then one might think and I think can be applicable here. This however is resolved when one removes enough steel due to sharpening.

Secondly, what can happen, is that a carbide of some sort might have chipped out. This usually happens at very low angles. It looks something like this:

Image

Photos from Cliff Stamp and published by Roman Landes.

Here is a knife (not VG 10) that experienced chipping. This chipping can be seen easily by the naked eye and think it is more severe then yours as described:

Image

Image

Image
"If you wish to live and thrive, let the spider run alive"
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If you don't have anything good to say, then don't say anything at all

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uncleduncle
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#15

Post by uncleduncle »

Interesting. It has been sharpened quite a bit already. One of my friends had used it for a minute. maybe he abused it and I didn't notice until after I used it :p
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#16

Post by .357 mag »

I've sharpened my VG-10 as low as 12 degrees per side. It was ok for light duty but chipped under a heavier tasks
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#17

Post by Cliff Stamp »

.357 mag wrote:I've sharpened my VG-10 as low as 12 degrees per side. It was ok for light duty but chipped under a heavier tasks
Such as?
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