Nilakka Folder-Updated Version Out??

KTMADV · #1

Anybody know if or when the new updated Nilakka folder will be available.I hope dealers are not sitting on old stock when it's time to buy one and they send you the old grind version.

Cliff Stamp · #2

What is the difference in the grind geometry between the original and new version?

Blerv · #3

Sal said they were stopping production until edges could be looked at.

After all, if you can't whittle with a zero grind what's the point?

. Oh ya...insane sharpness.

ABX2011 · #4

The last post I saw from Sal said that they had put new edges on the Nilakkas and they were shipping.

Cliff Stamp · #5

This is a rather direct example of the reason why over building is necessary. When Spyderco came out with the production version of Wilson's blades there was some complaint that it was not ground as thin as the customs from Wilson. Wilson who was heavily influenced by Boye does very thin flat grinds, not as thin at the edge as Boye (who would frequently grind under 0.005" at the edge) but close. Those customs can not take significant lateral pressure at the edge either but the people who buy them do so for very specific reasons, mainly the very high cutting ability, ease of sharpening and lifetime of the cutting edge.

Of course if you buy one of their knives, or the Nilakka and want to use it for heavier work (curious thing) just take an x-coarse stone and give it 10-15 passes per side until the edge thickens to the point it has enough durability. As the edge passes 0.005" it becomes very durable for wood cutting, even on hard woods, as it approaches 0.010" you can even power through knots. Of course if you leave it under 0.005" and use it on ropes, cardboard, etc. you are in for a rather different experience than most knives.

JudasD · #6

I purchased the Nilakka mostly as a safe queen. I find beauty in its simplicity. What was a knife like this originally intended for? Fish? I cant think of what other light work could be applicable without adding any undue pressure to the blade.
I would like to be able to use it if i ever have to. If one were to put a micro bevel on it what degree would be good to use on this edge? 40? I have never owned a zero ground blade before. Yes, i am a virgin

Thanks,
JD

Donzaucker · #7

How to distinguish the old from the new version with new microbevel? I don't want to buy an old grind version, I mean I don't know if the seller send me one of the old stock
thanks everyone for reply

tvenuto · #8

You can tell by the date code on the box. The first letter is the month, and the second letter is the year of manufacture. You might be able to talk the dealer into sending you a knife that was made after a certain date.

Donzaucker · #9

tvenuto wrote:You can tell by the date code on the box. The first letter is the month, and the second letter is the year of manufacture. You might be able to talk the dealer into sending you a knife that was made after a certain date.

Thanks tvenuto
So is this the only way? I mean, no visible difference to the naked eye?

The Deacon · #10

Donzaucker wrote:How to distinguish the old from the new version with new microbevel? I don't want to buy an old grind version, I mean I don't know if the seller send me one of the old stock
thanks everyone for reply

Think you answered your own question. If it doesn't have the microbevel, it's the old grind.

Zwager · #11

On the Amsterdam meet Sal told us, 60 strokes on the Sharpmaker (30 on the Brown 30 on The White) with 30 degrees will do the job for you.