Custom scales for Sage4

[jackknifeh]

I'm thinking of getting some scales made for my Sage4 by someone who has the ability to do a better job than me. I'm making a set out of red G-10 now. I think they will look ok but I'm using the G-10 because I already had it and I want at least one practice set before I buy something more expensive.

I would appreciate suggestions on people who can do this. I have seen several threads of scales people have made that were impressive. I would like the advice from the people who had this done and how they feel about the material that was used and anything else you want to say. I think I will want something really beautiful yet tough (of course). I use this knife and it will get scratched so a material that doesn't show scratches well is a consideration. Thanks for any help.

Jack

[jackknifeh]

Picture is blurry, sorry.

The attachment Sage4 G-10 scale.jpg is no longer available

Still need to cut pocket clip slots. It looks ok. I may make a blue G-10 set but I need to decide what to make a nicer set with. I really have no idea what to use. Guess it's shopping time.

[mattman]

What are you looking at, Jack? Natural materials, or synthetic?
I'm guessing natural, but not sure. I thought you really liked the ironwood...?

[jackknifeh]

What are you looking at, Jack? Natural materials, or synthetic?
I'm guessing natural, but not sure. I thought you really liked the ironwood...?

I do like ironwood. Beautiful grain is what I like a lot. I'd like something that the grain colors stand out more than the Arizona ironwood does. I'll be looking at different types of stabilized wood. It may be hard to come by in 1/8" thick slabs and I don't have a lot of good woodworking tools for small projects. I'm not in a hurry so I'm going to check out different materials. Micarta? Whatever it is I'll like to have as much grip as possible. Grip is not as important with the Sages as it would be on a handle without choils I think. Untextured G-10 provides some grip but nothing like the textured stuff. I'm not sure but I think you can buy textured G-10. I was thinking of getting a slab of layred G-10 that is thick. If it were at least 1/2" thick I could cut a diagonal slice so the layers would be visible when a flat scale is finished. As you can see I have a lot of looking and deciding to do. I'll probably make several sets (over time).

[The Deacon]

I do like ironwood. Beautiful grain is what I like a lot. I'd like something that the grain colors stand out more than the Arizona ironwood does. I'll be looking at different types of stabilized wood. It may be hard to come by in 1/8" thick slabs and I don't have a lot of good woodworking tools for small projects. I'm not in a hurry so I'm going to check out different materials. Micarta? Whatever it is I'll like to have as much grip as possible. Grip is not as important with the Sages as it would be on a handle without choils I think. Untextured G-10 provides some grip but nothing like the textured stuff. I'm not sure but I think you can buy textured G-10. I was thinking of getting a slab of layred G-10 that is thick. If it were at least 1/2" thick I could cut a diagonal slice so the layers would be visible when a flat scale is finished. As you can see I have a lot of looking and deciding to do. I'll probably make several sets (over time).

FWIW, in the past, Chuck Bybee of Alpha Knife Supply has been willing to slice up thicker blocks of stabilized wood I was purchasing. Can't guarantee he still offers that service, but am guessing he does and that others who sell it may do so as well. I can vouch for the quality of the wood Chuck sells.

[jackknifeh]

FWIW, in the past, Chuck Bybee of Alpha Knife Supply has been willing to slice up thicker blocks of stabilized wood I was purchasing. Can't guarantee he still offers that service, but am guessing he does and that others who sell it may do so as well. I can vouch for the quality of the wood Chuck sells.

Thanks Deacon. I looked at the site and read where they can cut wood. I sent them an email to confirm it. If I got one piece of wood and had 1/8" or 3/16" slices cut that would give me quite a few pieces to pick scales from for different knives. Instead of needing to start at the end of a piece I could cut a piece from the center if the grain is more attarctive. That means lots of waste but is an option. They have quite a nice selection also.

Jack

[The Deacon]

Yes they do, Jack. Another advantage of getting a thick piece and slicing it, or having lit sliced, is that it allows you to book match the scales. There's a fair amount of loss when the wood is sliced, due to the thickness of the saw cuts but that's true whether they do it or you do it yourself.

[krotchitty]

This topic has my interest, I'd be subjecting the (OEM ironwood) scales to water rinsing after using the knife for food preparation daily (like my Caly 3.5), so I was curious if simply carrying out regular applications of mineral oil on the ironwood would prevent wood rot/decomposition or if it would be better to replace the wood with a G10 or alternative synthetic product which may stand up better to my "normal use" of the knife.

[jackknifeh]

I have the G-10 scales on my Sage4 now. I Dremelled grooves in the G-10 to increase grip since the above picture was taken. One day I caught the clip on something when the ironwood scales were still on the knife. The clip was pulled up so it was at a 90 degree angle with the handle. The clip didn't bend, it pivoted under the screw. There was enough force to crack the wood under the wires. Now I can't use a clip on the knife. It still looks good without the clip. Well, I can now that I have the G-10 scales but I usually carry it in a pouch anyway. I love nice wood but it seems synthetic materials can stand up to harsher treatment sometimes.

I found some Dymondwood on Jantz that they sell as thin as 1/8" thick. This is just barely thicker than the ironwood scales. I plan to order some black with silver in the grain when I order some kitchen knives to make also. I think it will look good with my stonewashed blade and bolsters. :)

Jack

[The Deacon]

This topic has my interest, I'd be subjecting the (OEM ironwood) scales to water rinsing after using the knife for food preparation daily (like my Caly 3.5), so I was curious if simply carrying out regular applications of mineral oil on the ironwood would prevent wood rot/decomposition or if it would be better to replace the wood with a G10 or alternative synthetic product which may stand up better to my "normal use" of the knife.

Ironwood is an oily, dense, naturally water resistant, wood. As long as you treat your Sage IV as well as any intelligent person would treat fine kitchen cutlery after food prep, there should be no problems with the wood.

I have the G-10 scales on my Sage4 now. I Dremelled grooves in the G-10 to increase grip since the above picture was taken. One day I caught the clip on something when the ironwood scales were still on the knife. The clip was pulled up so it was at a 90 degree angle with the handle. The clip didn't bend, it pivoted under the screw. There was enough force to crack the wood under the wires. Now I can't use a clip on the knife. It still looks good without the clip. Well, I can now that I have the G-10 scales but I usually carry it in a pouch anyway. I love nice wood but it seems synthetic materials can stand up to harsher treatment sometimes.

I found some Dymondwood on Jantz that they sell as thin as 1/8" thick. This is just barely thicker than the ironwood scales. I plan to order some black with silver in the grain when I order some kitchen knives to make also. I think it will look good with my stonewashed blade and bolsters. :)

Jack

Might be good that it's a bit thicker. IMHO, Dymondwood looks best when contoured a bit to show off the lamination layers, so you could bevel the front to meet the bolsters and put a slight crown on the rest of the scale.

[jackknifeh]

Might be good that it's a bit thicker. IMHO, Dymondwood looks best when contoured a bit to show off the lamination layers, so you could bevel the front to meet the bolsters and put a slight crown on the rest of the scale.

That's what I was thinking. I'm going to get the 3/16" thick sheet and see how that works. I can always do a little more sanding if it turns out that 3/16" is too thick. I'm planning on the handle having a rounder look and feel than the flat scales. With a gradual decline in thickness from the back of the scale to the bolster the grain should stand out. I also may attack the scales with the Dremel like I did the G-10 scales to add grip. Here's a picture of the knife as it is now. G-10 scales and stonewashed blade, bolsters and liners. You can see the difference in the 1/8" thick G-10 scales where it meets the bolster.



I really think black scales with silver mixed in will be nice. If not, Dymondwood is not very expensive so I can try different wood patterns and colors.

Jack