1095 carbon steel
-
- Member
- Posts: 55
- Joined: Fri May 25, 2012 9:34 pm
- Location: Massachussettes
1095 carbon steel
if i was to let a knife with this steel begin to rust and such, would that effect the performance? or is rust simply a cosmetic thing
I'm no expert but you could force a patina on it that would create a layer of protective oxidation on the blade. I did this with my carbon Mora. I alternated applications of dabbed mustard and potato juice and created an interesting pattern. However, this will affect the cutting edge but you could protect the edge first or strop it afterwards. Continued use cutting acidic foods for instance could negatively affect the edge unless you keep it cleaned and oiled.
I'll add that you don't want to let it rust with water. That will create red rust. Red rust will eat away your steel. You want black rust which you can create with various acids possibly among other things. Others chime in here but water may not be the problem, I think it's water and oxygen that are the problem.
I'll add that you don't want to let it rust with water. That will create red rust. Red rust will eat away your steel. You want black rust which you can create with various acids possibly among other things. Others chime in here but water may not be the problem, I think it's water and oxygen that are the problem.
Rust is the chemical breakdown of the steels' structure. It happens more readily (usually) at the edge and can be sharpened away. But as to whether rust affects a blade... does Drain-o affect a person? :P
1095 is in my hall of fame for fixed-blade steels. But it requires upkeep. It's not impossible, far from it. Quite easy in fact. But don't let a knife rust. Ever.
1095 is in my hall of fame for fixed-blade steels. But it requires upkeep. It's not impossible, far from it. Quite easy in fact. But don't let a knife rust. Ever.
- The Mastiff
- Member
- Posts: 6045
- Joined: Sun Jun 04, 2006 2:53 am
- Location: raleigh nc
It would have to be quite a lot of rust before it affected the performance of the blade significantly
"A Mastiff is to a dog what a Lion is to a housecat. He stands alone and all others sink before him. His courage does not exceed temper and generosity, and in attachment he equals the kindest of his race" Cynographia Britannic 1800
"Unless you're the lead dog the view is pretty much gonna stay the same!"
"Unless you're the lead dog the view is pretty much gonna stay the same!"
I'd agree, Joe, with the exception Exile points out, along the edge. But a quick strop should deal with it easily in most cases.The Mastiff wrote:It would have to be quite a lot of rust before it affected the performance of the blade significantly
But, IMO, they should. 0-1 too. I'd love to see more non-stainless offerings, both traditional and newer super steels. For whatever reason I get better edges on non-stainless across the board.Blerv wrote:Since Spyderco doesn't make anything in 1095 you might try the off-topic section for suggestions.
Ken
玉鋼
- dj moonbat
- Member
- Posts: 1513
- Joined: Sat Mar 27, 2010 11:58 am
- Location: Sunny SoCal
The Bushcraft had O-1, no?kbuzbee wrote:I'd agree, Joe, with the exception Exile points out, along the edge. But a quick strop should deal with it easily in most cases.
But, IMO, they should. 0-1 too. I'd love to see more non-stainless offerings, both traditional and newer super steels. For whatever reason I get better edges on non-stainless across the board.
"If you can't annoy somebody, there's little point in writing." — Kingsley Amis
- The Deacon
- Member
- Posts: 25717
- Joined: Fri Sep 24, 2004 10:33 am
- Location: Upstate SC, USA
- Contact:
Depends to some extent on what type of performance you're talking about. However, rust on the edge will certainly reduce sharpness, which will impact tasks which require it, which quite a few do. Beyond that, things that roughen the surface of the sides of a blade tend to increase drag, which will make some tasks more difficult, at least until the surface rust has been abraded away by the material being cut.
Paul
My Personal Website ---- Beginners Guide to Spyderco Collecting ---- Spydiewiki
Deplorable :p
WTC # 1458 - 1504 - 1508 - Never Forget, Never Forgive!
My Personal Website ---- Beginners Guide to Spyderco Collecting ---- Spydiewiki
Deplorable :p
WTC # 1458 - 1504 - 1508 - Never Forget, Never Forgive!
1095 was OK back when there wasn't really many other options (Not really a lot of choices worth using outside of Customs), like back in the 70's, but now...... Well...... In folders and small fixed blades we have a lot of other options both stainless and non stainless to limit ourselves to something like 1095.
It's really funny that back then we all wanted something better than 1095 because we had to sharpen it all the time if we really did any real work with our knives.
Now that we have steels that ARE better there are those who try and hype that same steel that a lot of us used back in the days, but hated because we had to sharpen it constantly.
It's really funny, at least to me anyway.
It's really funny that back then we all wanted something better than 1095 because we had to sharpen it all the time if we really did any real work with our knives.
Now that we have steels that ARE better there are those who try and hype that same steel that a lot of us used back in the days, but hated because we had to sharpen it constantly.
It's really funny, at least to me anyway.
It was some sort of "suggestion".I would be very happy with Super Blue or Super White or something similar in more Spyderco models and not only sprint runs.Blerv wrote:Since Spyderco doesn't make anything in 1095 you might try the off-topic section for suggestions.
I understand a Super Blue Caly3 is in works.I can only hope it will not be a sprint and more models follow.I am a Spyderco fan but I also like old fashion
carbon steels.Easy to sharpen, hold an edge and I like to take care of my blades so stain or rust is not an issue.I can only think that the best blades
in the history of world were not stainless or stainproof.I am very frustrated I couldn't get the SB Caly 3.5 and I can only hope I will be able to get the SB Caly 3.
While I haven't used my ESEE Izula enough to say one way or the other, people report very good edge holding on the ESEE knives. It's possibly more to do with the excellent heat treat they get. Other cheaper 1095 knives might not get that quality of heat treat. There's an uncut video of a guy on youtube that cuts through a 4x4 and shaves some arm hair after with his Izula. Seemed impressive to me. Here's a link http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tSrlvqrZQKYAnkerson wrote:1095 was OK back when there wasn't really many other options (Not really a lot of choices worth using outside of Customs), like back in the 70's, but now...... Well...... In folders and small fixed blades we have a lot of other options both stainless and non stainless to limit ourselves to something like 1095.
It's really funny that back then we all wanted something better than 1095 because we had to sharpen it all the time if we really did any real work with our knives.
Now that we have steels that ARE better there are those who try and hype that same steel that a lot of us used back in the days, but hated because we had to sharpen it constantly.
It's really funny, at least to me anyway.
I get your point, Jim. I'm sure I'd feel differently if I used my knife hard all day, every day. I did when I was younger. I'd appreciate a blade that holds an edge longer. Now that I'm older I use them occasionally. I appreciate the really fine edges I get from carbon steels. I've even gone back to carbon steel for my kitchen knives. Like many things, better is in the eye of the beholder.Ankerson wrote:Now that we have steels that ARE better there are those who try and hype that same steel that a lot of us used back in the days, but hated because we had to sharpen it constantly.
IIRC Aogami makes a White, a Blue and a Super Blue. No Super White, but White is no slouch by my understanding.elena86 wrote:I would be very happy with Super Blue or Super White or
Ken
玉鋼
Sorry no intent to be sassy. I was mainly going off of this post:elena86 wrote:It was some sort of "suggestion".I would be very happy with Super Blue or Super White or something similar in more Spyderco models and not only sprint runs.
I understand a Super Blue Caly3 is in works.I can only hope it will not be a sprint and more models follow.I am a Spyderco fan but I also like old fashion
carbon steels.Easy to sharpen, hold an edge and I like to take care of my blades so stain or rust is not an issue.I can only think that the best blades
in the history of world were not stainless or stainproof.I am very frustrated I couldn't get the SB Caly 3.5 and I can only hope I will be able to get the SB Caly 3.
As the Super Blue Caly 3.5 is the only production folder to use that steel (or perhaps the only folder at all?) I would like to think more will come at a slow rate. The 3 is in the works and Sal said a Stretch FRN is planned at some point down the road. You might check out the Gayle Bradley with it's CPM-M4. I have the Manix2 with the steel and it sharpens up easy and is quite tough.elena86 wrote:Does anyone know a good 1095 carbon steel folders producer ?
I can understand why Spyderco steers clear of high-corrosion steels. Most people aren't willing to put up with the nuances for the hassle. Especially with the modern semi-stainless and stainless steels being produced.
Wood isn't really that abrasive on edges so that video means nothing really, that's an old video.....thallium wrote:While I haven't used my ESEE Izula enough to say one way or the other, people report very good edge holding on the ESEE knives. It's possibly more to do with the excellent heat treat they get. Other cheaper 1095 knives might not get that quality of heat treat. There's an uncut video of a guy on youtube that cuts through a 4x4 and shaves some arm hair after with his Izula. Seemed impressive to me. Here's a link http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tSrlvqrZQKY
Good edge holding compared to what?


Doing what?
That is the question one should be asking and prepare to start laughing once they give their answer.....
HT on 1095 isn't really nuclear science at the hardness we usually see of 55-58 HRC.
1095 is 1095 is 1095 is 1095... Unless it's at 64-65 HRC then it gets better somewhat.
kbuzbee wrote:I get your point, Jim. I'm sure I'd feel differently if I used my knife hard all day, every day. I did when I was younger. I'd appreciate a blade that holds an edge longer. Now that I'm older I use them occasionally. I appreciate the really fine edges I get from carbon steels. I've even gone back to carbon steel for my kitchen knives. Like many things, better is in the eye of the beholder.
IIRC Aogami makes a White, a Blue and a Super Blue. No Super White, but White is no slouch by my understanding.
Ken
I used to have to sharpen 3 or 4 times a shift at least....
1095 will get butter knife dull fast if one really uses it.
Not doubting you at all, brother. Your work on edges is the stuff of legend. I just know I love the edges I'm getting. I don't own any 1095 (unless one of my kitchen knives is?) but if Sal made one I'd try it just to see.Ankerson wrote:I used to have to sharpen 3 or 4 times a shift at least....
1095 will get butter knife dull fast if one really uses it.
Ken
玉鋼