1095 carbon steel

Discuss Spyderco's products and history.
SpyderBite
Member
Posts: 55
Joined: Fri May 25, 2012 9:34 pm
Location: Massachussettes

1095 carbon steel

#1

Post by SpyderBite »

if i was to let a knife with this steel begin to rust and such, would that effect the performance? or is rust simply a cosmetic thing
thallium
Member
Posts: 11
Joined: Wed May 30, 2012 2:07 pm

#2

Post by thallium »

I'm no expert but you could force a patina on it that would create a layer of protective oxidation on the blade. I did this with my carbon Mora. I alternated applications of dabbed mustard and potato juice and created an interesting pattern. However, this will affect the cutting edge but you could protect the edge first or strop it afterwards. Continued use cutting acidic foods for instance could negatively affect the edge unless you keep it cleaned and oiled.

I'll add that you don't want to let it rust with water. That will create red rust. Red rust will eat away your steel. You want black rust which you can create with various acids possibly among other things. Others chime in here but water may not be the problem, I think it's water and oxygen that are the problem.
Exile.
Member
Posts: 26
Joined: Thu Jul 05, 2012 7:31 pm

#3

Post by Exile. »

Rust is the chemical breakdown of the steels' structure. It happens more readily (usually) at the edge and can be sharpened away. But as to whether rust affects a blade... does Drain-o affect a person? :P
1095 is in my hall of fame for fixed-blade steels. But it requires upkeep. It's not impossible, far from it. Quite easy in fact. But don't let a knife rust. Ever.
User avatar
The Mastiff
Member
Posts: 6045
Joined: Sun Jun 04, 2006 2:53 am
Location: raleigh nc

#4

Post by The Mastiff »

It would have to be quite a lot of rust before it affected the performance of the blade significantly
"A Mastiff is to a dog what a Lion is to a housecat. He stands alone and all others sink before him. His courage does not exceed temper and generosity, and in attachment he equals the kindest of his race" Cynographia Britannic 1800


"Unless you're the lead dog the view is pretty much gonna stay the same!"
User avatar
elena86
Member
Posts: 3929
Joined: Fri Sep 03, 2010 6:59 am
Location: Somewhere in Europe

#5

Post by elena86 »

Does anyone know a good 1095 carbon steel folders producer ?
User avatar
Blerv
Member
Posts: 11850
Joined: Mon May 04, 2009 11:24 am

#6

Post by Blerv »

Since Spyderco doesn't make anything in 1095 you might try the off-topic section for suggestions.
User avatar
kbuzbee
Member
Posts: 4764
Joined: Sun Aug 13, 2006 8:37 am
Location: Mentor, OH

#7

Post by kbuzbee »

The Mastiff wrote:It would have to be quite a lot of rust before it affected the performance of the blade significantly
I'd agree, Joe, with the exception Exile points out, along the edge. But a quick strop should deal with it easily in most cases.
Blerv wrote:Since Spyderco doesn't make anything in 1095 you might try the off-topic section for suggestions.
But, IMO, they should. 0-1 too. I'd love to see more non-stainless offerings, both traditional and newer super steels. For whatever reason I get better edges on non-stainless across the board.

Ken
玉鋼
User avatar
dj moonbat
Member
Posts: 1513
Joined: Sat Mar 27, 2010 11:58 am
Location: Sunny SoCal

#8

Post by dj moonbat »

kbuzbee wrote:I'd agree, Joe, with the exception Exile points out, along the edge. But a quick strop should deal with it easily in most cases.



But, IMO, they should. 0-1 too. I'd love to see more non-stainless offerings, both traditional and newer super steels. For whatever reason I get better edges on non-stainless across the board.
The Bushcraft had O-1, no?
"If you can't annoy somebody, there's little point in writing." — Kingsley Amis
User avatar
kbuzbee
Member
Posts: 4764
Joined: Sun Aug 13, 2006 8:37 am
Location: Mentor, OH

#9

Post by kbuzbee »

dj moonbat wrote:The Bushcraft had O-1, no?
Exactly. Great steel. Let's see it in a Chaparral.

Don't get me wrong, there are some... Maybe a good mix, from the company's perspective. M4, SB, 0-1.... I just want MORE ;)

Ken
玉鋼
User avatar
The Deacon
Member
Posts: 25717
Joined: Fri Sep 24, 2004 10:33 am
Location: Upstate SC, USA
Contact:

#10

Post by The Deacon »

Depends to some extent on what type of performance you're talking about. However, rust on the edge will certainly reduce sharpness, which will impact tasks which require it, which quite a few do. Beyond that, things that roughen the surface of the sides of a blade tend to increase drag, which will make some tasks more difficult, at least until the surface rust has been abraded away by the material being cut.
Paul
My Personal Website ---- Beginners Guide to Spyderco Collecting ---- Spydiewiki
Deplorable :p
WTC # 1458 - 1504 - 1508 - Never Forget, Never Forgive!
User avatar
gull wing
Member
Posts: 3423
Joined: Fri Sep 24, 2004 10:33 am
Location: Louisiana USA

#11

Post by gull wing »

1095:
Great Eastern makes some fine slip joints, lockbacks and liner locks.
SCARAMOUCHE! :bug-red-white
User avatar
Ankerson
Member
Posts: 7572
Joined: Sat Jul 24, 2010 1:23 pm
Location: Raleigh, NC

#12

Post by Ankerson »

1095 was OK back when there wasn't really many other options (Not really a lot of choices worth using outside of Customs), like back in the 70's, but now...... Well...... In folders and small fixed blades we have a lot of other options both stainless and non stainless to limit ourselves to something like 1095.

It's really funny that back then we all wanted something better than 1095 because we had to sharpen it all the time if we really did any real work with our knives.

Now that we have steels that ARE better there are those who try and hype that same steel that a lot of us used back in the days, but hated because we had to sharpen it constantly.

It's really funny, at least to me anyway.
User avatar
elena86
Member
Posts: 3929
Joined: Fri Sep 03, 2010 6:59 am
Location: Somewhere in Europe

#13

Post by elena86 »

Blerv wrote:Since Spyderco doesn't make anything in 1095 you might try the off-topic section for suggestions.
It was some sort of "suggestion".I would be very happy with Super Blue or Super White or something similar in more Spyderco models and not only sprint runs.
I understand a Super Blue Caly3 is in works.I can only hope it will not be a sprint and more models follow.I am a Spyderco fan but I also like old fashion
carbon steels.Easy to sharpen, hold an edge and I like to take care of my blades so stain or rust is not an issue.I can only think that the best blades
in the history of world were not stainless or stainproof.I am very frustrated I couldn't get the SB Caly 3.5 and I can only hope I will be able to get the SB Caly 3.
thallium
Member
Posts: 11
Joined: Wed May 30, 2012 2:07 pm

#14

Post by thallium »

Ankerson wrote:1095 was OK back when there wasn't really many other options (Not really a lot of choices worth using outside of Customs), like back in the 70's, but now...... Well...... In folders and small fixed blades we have a lot of other options both stainless and non stainless to limit ourselves to something like 1095.

It's really funny that back then we all wanted something better than 1095 because we had to sharpen it all the time if we really did any real work with our knives.

Now that we have steels that ARE better there are those who try and hype that same steel that a lot of us used back in the days, but hated because we had to sharpen it constantly.

It's really funny, at least to me anyway.
While I haven't used my ESEE Izula enough to say one way or the other, people report very good edge holding on the ESEE knives. It's possibly more to do with the excellent heat treat they get. Other cheaper 1095 knives might not get that quality of heat treat. There's an uncut video of a guy on youtube that cuts through a 4x4 and shaves some arm hair after with his Izula. Seemed impressive to me. Here's a link http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tSrlvqrZQKY
User avatar
kbuzbee
Member
Posts: 4764
Joined: Sun Aug 13, 2006 8:37 am
Location: Mentor, OH

#15

Post by kbuzbee »

Ankerson wrote:Now that we have steels that ARE better there are those who try and hype that same steel that a lot of us used back in the days, but hated because we had to sharpen it constantly.
I get your point, Jim. I'm sure I'd feel differently if I used my knife hard all day, every day. I did when I was younger. I'd appreciate a blade that holds an edge longer. Now that I'm older I use them occasionally. I appreciate the really fine edges I get from carbon steels. I've even gone back to carbon steel for my kitchen knives. Like many things, better is in the eye of the beholder.
elena86 wrote:I would be very happy with Super Blue or Super White or
IIRC Aogami makes a White, a Blue and a Super Blue. No Super White, but White is no slouch by my understanding.

Ken
玉鋼
User avatar
Blerv
Member
Posts: 11850
Joined: Mon May 04, 2009 11:24 am

#16

Post by Blerv »

elena86 wrote:It was some sort of "suggestion".I would be very happy with Super Blue or Super White or something similar in more Spyderco models and not only sprint runs.
I understand a Super Blue Caly3 is in works.I can only hope it will not be a sprint and more models follow.I am a Spyderco fan but I also like old fashion
carbon steels.Easy to sharpen, hold an edge and I like to take care of my blades so stain or rust is not an issue.I can only think that the best blades
in the history of world were not stainless or stainproof.I am very frustrated I couldn't get the SB Caly 3.5 and I can only hope I will be able to get the SB Caly 3.
Sorry no intent to be sassy. I was mainly going off of this post:
elena86 wrote:Does anyone know a good 1095 carbon steel folders producer ?
As the Super Blue Caly 3.5 is the only production folder to use that steel (or perhaps the only folder at all?) I would like to think more will come at a slow rate. The 3 is in the works and Sal said a Stretch FRN is planned at some point down the road. You might check out the Gayle Bradley with it's CPM-M4. I have the Manix2 with the steel and it sharpens up easy and is quite tough.

I can understand why Spyderco steers clear of high-corrosion steels. Most people aren't willing to put up with the nuances for the hassle. Especially with the modern semi-stainless and stainless steels being produced.
User avatar
Ankerson
Member
Posts: 7572
Joined: Sat Jul 24, 2010 1:23 pm
Location: Raleigh, NC

#17

Post by Ankerson »

thallium wrote:While I haven't used my ESEE Izula enough to say one way or the other, people report very good edge holding on the ESEE knives. It's possibly more to do with the excellent heat treat they get. Other cheaper 1095 knives might not get that quality of heat treat. There's an uncut video of a guy on youtube that cuts through a 4x4 and shaves some arm hair after with his Izula. Seemed impressive to me. Here's a link http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tSrlvqrZQKY
Wood isn't really that abrasive on edges so that video means nothing really, that's an old video.....

Good edge holding compared to what? ;) Something like AUS 6 or 440A..... ;)

Doing what?

That is the question one should be asking and prepare to start laughing once they give their answer.....

HT on 1095 isn't really nuclear science at the hardness we usually see of 55-58 HRC.

1095 is 1095 is 1095 is 1095... Unless it's at 64-65 HRC then it gets better somewhat.
User avatar
Ankerson
Member
Posts: 7572
Joined: Sat Jul 24, 2010 1:23 pm
Location: Raleigh, NC

#18

Post by Ankerson »

kbuzbee wrote:I get your point, Jim. I'm sure I'd feel differently if I used my knife hard all day, every day. I did when I was younger. I'd appreciate a blade that holds an edge longer. Now that I'm older I use them occasionally. I appreciate the really fine edges I get from carbon steels. I've even gone back to carbon steel for my kitchen knives. Like many things, better is in the eye of the beholder.



IIRC Aogami makes a White, a Blue and a Super Blue. No Super White, but White is no slouch by my understanding.

Ken

I used to have to sharpen 3 or 4 times a shift at least....

1095 will get butter knife dull fast if one really uses it.
User avatar
Blerv
Member
Posts: 11850
Joined: Mon May 04, 2009 11:24 am

#19

Post by Blerv »

Ankerson wrote:HT on 1095 isn't really nuclear science at the hardness we usually see of 55-58 HRC.

1095 is 1095 is 1095 is 1095... Unless it's at 64-65 HRC then it gets better somewhat.
Exactly.

The 10XX steels are a pick of hobbyists for a reason: It's pretty darn easy to work with.
User avatar
kbuzbee
Member
Posts: 4764
Joined: Sun Aug 13, 2006 8:37 am
Location: Mentor, OH

#20

Post by kbuzbee »

Ankerson wrote:I used to have to sharpen 3 or 4 times a shift at least....

1095 will get butter knife dull fast if one really uses it.
Not doubting you at all, brother. Your work on edges is the stuff of legend. I just know I love the edges I'm getting. I don't own any 1095 (unless one of my kitchen knives is?) but if Sal made one I'd try it just to see.

Ken
玉鋼
Post Reply