Spyderco Forums

Before sitting down to learn how to use the Spyderco sharpening rods, I noticed that I had some tape residue on my Delca's blade. I couldn't get it off with the sponge side of the scouring pad, so I tried the green side (very lightly). Before I knew it, I had scratched up the steel (very shallow).
I simply want to buff these light scratches out. What can I do? I have read through posts and know about Flix, toothpaste, spit, baking soda, etc.
(By the way: I do own a Dremel and buffing wheels, but I don't want to do anything without some advice. AND: I know that this is a tool, and tools get scratched, but this is not an honorable scratch. When I look at the blade, I am simply reminded of my stupidity. I want a second chance.) Thanks is advance!
-Matt

myupspilot wrote:Before sitting down to learn how to use the Spyderco sharpening rods, I noticed that I had some tape residue on my Delca's blade. I couldn't get it off with the sponge side of the scouring pad, so I tried the green side (very lightly). Before I knew it, I had scratched up the steel (very shallow).
I simply want to buff these light scratches out. What can I do? I have read through posts and know about Flix, toothpaste, spit, baking soda, etc.
(By the way: I do own a Dremel and buffing wheels, but I don't want to do anything without some advice. AND: I know that this is a tool, and tools get scratched, but this is not an honorable scratch. When I look at the blade, I am simply reminded of my stupidity. I want a second chance.) Thanks is advance!
-Matt

Sounds similar to another post...

Smart move not to use the Dremel. It might work for someone who has a lot of skill and has had a lot of practice, but for most of us it would do more harm than good. Any good metal polish, like Flitz Metal Polish, Simichrome or Super Premium Polishing Paste, a soft cloth, patience, and lots of elbow grease are your best bet. Other things, like toothpaste, can also work, but are less predictable in terms of grit size.

Another vote for a lot of elbow grease and Flitz. Also, whenever I have tape residue or any other adhesive on the blade I'll wipe down with whatever solvent I'm near. Denatured alchohol, lighter fluid, etc.

Clip wrote:Another vote for a lot of elbow grease and Flitz. Also, whenever I have tape residue or any other adhesive on the blade I'll wipe down with whatever solvent I'm near. Denatured alchohol, lighter fluid +1, etc.

Lighter Fluid is your best bet, I use it all the time.

-Bobby

VG10 scratches pretty easy, don't be too hard on yourself. If you want an easier accessible product look into automotive buffing compound or wheel polish. It's gonna take a lot of work to get the scratches buffed out, and then you're gonna end up doing the entire blade because that one spot will be shinier than the rest of the blade.

If it were ME, i'd find a bench grinder with a buffing wheel and i'd polish the whole blade all at one time. Tape up the handle so it doesn't get scuffed up and use a low speed so you don't have to worry about getting the blade too hot (keep a cup of water on hand just in case). A Dremel will work for this but the small size of the buffing wheels isn't the best for getting even coverage when polishing something like a blade.

Its going to get scratches on it with use, leave it alone. And next time, all you need is some wd40 to take off tape residue.

One of my other hobbies is RC, and I use Motor Spray (which is very similar to electronic contact cleaner) to remove adhesive residue from my blades. It works very well, almost instantly and has no ill affect on the Steel.

It's also excellent for breaking down oil, silicone oils and other liquids that can be tough to clean up.

This is the brand that I use:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wt ... XFZ96&P=ML

My take is that life is too short to fret about cosmetic scratches on a blade that's being used. All of my knives with the exception of one Damascus Mule have them. That one Mule is on display. Once they come out for use or sharpening all bets are off, somehow or another they will get scratched.

In that case the best solution is what chuck so eloquently put in another thread "The best place to hide a tree, put it in a forest".

Use the knife, don't let the knife use you

dbcad wrote:Use the knife, don't let the knife use you

But in Soviet Russia....?

The best way to get off tape residue and gunk (unless in the pivot) is steady pressure with your fingers along the grind line. At least in my experience you can move almost anything off the polished blade.

As with the rest I would use A mild polish and cotton rag or diaper cloth. Time x mild abrasive typicially works better than speed x harsh. At least for steady safe results.

SpydieFan wrote:But in Soviet Russia....?

The USSR hasn't existed since 1990 '91. Then we got the craziness in the former Czech republic. The whole Soviet exercise and it's aftermath should be a lesson for current goverments.

My opinion is that the OP not fret about cosmetic scratches, just my opinion Once the knife is out of the box It is subject to all sorts of cosmetic damage. Don't fret and ride with it. The knives shine brightest when they're used :)

If the scratch OCD is consuming you then Evil D's idea is good. You can also use a sheet of 1500 grit automotive sand paper to polish it. You will have to likely do the whole knife though.

Or... Just scuff the whole thing up and stick it in some sand and into a bag of nails and shake it around then sharpen it again and enjoy your great little working knife.

If you use the green pad to continue 'scratching' the blade, but in the same direction as the existing 'satin finish' scratches, can you get it looking more 'blended'?

Even a fine-grit polishing compound will leave unappealing marks if you're going across the grain of the finish that's on the rest of the surface. The key to polishing is to make all the lines go in the same direction, so the eye sees a consistent 'field' instead of individual scratches.

I can't be sure without seeing what you've got, but at the very least your blade will look nicer with the scotch-brite scratch pattern running consistently from edge to spine. It's also significantly easier to get further polishing done if you've got a large, consistent area to work with, rather than just a spot in the middle of the blade.

(Taping the edge is, naturally, a good idea)

Evil D wrote:VG10 scratches pretty easy, don't be too hard on yourself. If you want an easier accessible product look into automotive buffing compound or wheel polish. It's gonna take a lot of work to get the scratches buffed out, and then you're gonna end up doing the entire blade because that one spot will be shinier than the rest of the blade.

If it were ME, i'd find a bench grinder with a buffing wheel and i'd polish the whole blade all at one time. Tape up the handle so it doesn't get scuffed up and use a low speed so you don't have to worry about getting the blade too hot (keep a cup of water on hand just in case). A Dremel will work for this but the small size of the buffing wheels isn't the best for getting even coverage when polishing something like a blade.

I vote for this method. I have done with Evil D has suggested before and it worked just fine. :) Good luck.

myupspilot: I believe it's more important to learn from your experience than to beat yourself up over it!

i did the samething to a centovante 4 and basicly learned what not to do

dbcad wrote:Use the knife, don't let the knife use you

db, I think SpydieFan might've been channeling Yakov Smirnoff's humor :)

In America, you can always find a party.
In Soviet Russia, Party always find you!

JacksonKnives wrote:If you use the green pad to continue 'scratching' the blade, but in the same direction as the existing 'satin finish' scratches, can you get it looking more 'blended'?

Even a fine-grit polishing compound will leave unappealing marks if you're going across the grain of the finish that's on the rest of the surface. The key to polishing is to make all the lines go in the same direction, so the eye sees a consistent 'field' instead of individual scratches.

I can't be sure without seeing what you've got, but at the very least your blade will look nicer with the scotch-brite scratch pattern running consistently from edge to spine. It's also significantly easier to get further polishing done if you've got a large, consistent area to work with, rather than just a spot in the middle of the blade.

(Taping the edge is, naturally, a good idea)

+1 this will make it easier to do anything else you want including stonewashing.

Clip wrote:db, I think SpydieFan might've been channeling Yakov Smirnoff's humor :)

In America, you can always find a party.
In Soviet Russia, Party always find you!

Indeed I was lol.