Spyderco Forums

I've seen a few discussions about the edge of certain knives near the Ricasso, how the grinds are uneven, sloppy, not sharpened, over-sharpened, etc. Well, I have seen the same, and it only bugs me if I have to resharpen or reprofile, so I do this: add my own sharpening notch. Some folks hate them, but I LOVE them. Did it to this Yo2, rookies, etc. Probably voids your warranty, and if you aren't patient or adept, you could mess up I guess. But, Dremel, a 1/8" diamond bit and 30 seconds. Thought I'd share:

Good for you! It looks good.
You may get rained on by some folks here.

gull wing wrote:Good for you! It looks good.
You may get rained on by some folks here.

I like sharpening notches. I love my new orange PM2 which has about a mm or two at the ricasso that is not sharpened. I think I'll get that bit for my dremel and do this mod.

Excellent work. I must admit to having something of a love-hate relationship with sharpening notches. Love 'em on my Kiwis when it's time to sharpen them. They turn an easy job into a brain dead easy one. Hate 'em when I'm trying to absentmindedly open an envelope and wind up with the flap snagged in one.

this is a good idea for a DIY but i have to say that i wouldn't do this b/cit drives me nuts when this gets caught when cutting, and i dont care enough about that spot to sharpen.

That looks nicely done. My Yo2 is actually sharp all the way back, but my new orange Para2 is not and it kind of bugs me.

You could probably use a diamond needle file, go slower, and get right up against the tang without making an actual notch. But I agree that if the choice is between a bladed with that unsightly bump near the tang and one with a bit of a notch, the notch is preferable.

I like having a notch there a lot. However, I hold my Dremel at about a 45 degree angle (or lower) so the inside of the notch is sharp. I don't get a razor sharp edge but when something gets in there like string or twine it still cuts it. With a little patience and care I know you can get the notch sharp just like on a serrated edge.

There is a thread about this with a video. I'll try to find it.

Jack

I'm unable to copy and paste the URL but the thread i referred to is "why no sharpening notch?" started by Chuck and the video in the thread is provided by Unit.

BTW, excellent job on the notch in your picture. It looks as good as any i've seen, factory or owner mod.

Jack

Thanks.

My set of bits - http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.a ... 3409,43425

That is a nice perfect looking notch...wish I had the ability to do that for 99% of my knives. I fully support the notch!

I like the concept, but I have been exposed to a way I like better. I believe it was Unit who came up with it. In essence, you sharpen back to the plunge at a slight angle toward the pivot on a folder. This is accomplished with diamond files as I recall and then polished up to match your edge. That way you maintain full cutting edge without creating a "catch" point for material to be cut to snag.

RLR wrote:Thanks.

My set of bits - http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.a ... 3409,43425

I saved that set of bits for considering later. I have gotten a few sets from widgetsupply.com wich are very inexpensive and they didn't last which didn't surprise me. Here is a page from the site with examples. The prices scream cheap but I tried them. I have a few Dremel diamond bits but not many just because of the price. I don't use them much anyway. They don't have sets like the larger ones anyway. How do the bits you have perform and last. Also, do you have any suggestions as to how to use them to make them last longer? For example diamond sharpening stones will not last if you use lots of pressure with your knife blade. I figured it was the same for the rotary tool diamond bits. Your thoughts?

Jack

Here is the video Unit made about the sharpening notch.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VMvE-b42 ... YhFJw8o%3D

I had noticed it but not thought about it much until I saw this video. I did have the spot about 1" from the choil on my edge that was not straight. It was still sharp and cut fine but it bugged me. Now I use the notch idea but my notches are a lot bigger than Unit's. Personally I find a larger notch comes in handy for stripping wires, cutting string and maybe a few other things. Anyway my edges when I sharpen are straight and the bevels are even on the entire edge.

Jack

Last long. Light pressure and go slowly. It's only a few mm you're removing.

Thank you Jack,
That is what I was attempting to describe. :)
Doug

http://www.spyderco.com/forums/showthre ... post776361

Check out the above link and go to post #790. It is a 154CM blade put on a Sage1. First I think it is an awsome job. I mean awsome. But you can see on the edge bevel the situation that a sharpening notch cures better than any picture I've seen. Look at the picture where the blade fills the frame. With the stone NOT riding up the recurve because it has been replace with the sharpening notch the entire edge bevel will be consistant.

Jack
Edit: I would take my hat off to gull wing for the job he did but I don't wear a hat. So I'll just say I'm sending you my M4 Manix2 blade and my Sage1. I want you to put my Manix2 blade on my Sage1. :)

Very nice! I love the look and function of them personally. The few times on a reasonable length blade where it snagged is few and far between (I can see it with a Kiwi though).

I'm fine with or without. I don't have a problem sharpening without one, but then i also have had stones hit the back flat section of the grind just above where this notch would be and that irritates me, and it wouldn't have happened with the notch. My Cento 4 has one from the factory and i don't think i've ever snagged it on anything.