Spyderco Forums

The object: Smith's 3 inch diamond sharpening stone;
The unsuspecting user: Me;
The victim: SOG autoclip;
The result:... :eek: Mamma mia!

:D :D :D That is awful! It was the first time i use this type of sharpener. It is unforgiving to any mistakes in your sharpening technique, and it just eats the metal like it is butter. The edge has shiny spots all over its length. OMG! I'm in shock.

Now serious :-) I've been sharpening my knives (well most of my sharpening is just an edge touch up) on ceramic stone, and the diamond sharpener is not guilty for the result of my first attempt. The difference in the roughness between the ceramic and diamond sharpeners is significant. I have to work on keeping my sharpening angle precise during sharpening :-). The diamond would be great for edge repair after heavy abuse, but for daily touch ups i'll stay with the ceramic stone. Maybe the stone is too coarse. Is there any grade system for roughness of diamond sharpening stones as there is for other sharpening stones?

I'm so happy that i didn't try it on my Spydercos first :D :D :D

Lesson learned. Just wanted to share this amazing learning experience :-).

Mitko

If I have a really dinged up blade that I've put through some pretty harsh abuse I always grind in the initial relief ( first stage) with one of my diamond benchstones. The 2 that I have that really are great for primary stock removal are my Norton Coarse and my 3M Extra-Coarse. Both companies make excellent diamond benchstones.

Diamond stones certainly have their place and in my toolbox of sharpening gear they are indispensable.

I was told by a guy who really knows his business that "monocrystalline diamonds" are the best to use for sharpening. Both Norton and 3M use nothing but that type.

I stick to the 100 year old Hard Arkansas stone my grandfather bequeathed to me... All my knives are hair popping sharp at all times, im convinced they just dont make them like they used to...

i have several and for reprofiling something like s30v , zdp189 or any other hard to sharpen steel i wouldnt want to be without. there available in the finer grits as well as course. ive got an only worn diamond impregnated steel bench stone that is fantastic at putting a great finished edge on a blade.

I've used DMT diamond stones for several years and are sold on them. I have two Smith diamond stones (2" x 6", fine and coarse) but don't do much hand sharpening. I use the coarse one for flattening my water stones. I haven't tried any other company's products. The DMT stones are great and there are lots of different shapes and sizes to sharpen almost anything. There are grits from extra extra-coarse to extra extra-fine. They need to be treated differently than other types of stones. First, you have to use very light pressure when sharpening. Trust that the diamonds are cutting even when they don't feel like they are. Also, too much pressure on the stone will damage the stone. If you use them correctly and take care of them they'll last for years. Second, they have a break-in period. A brand new stone will feel very coarse. After several usings they start to feel smoother. They will stay this way but still be performing for years. They will be cutting so pay attention to the edge as you are using them. If you just keep stroking because it doesn't feel like anything is happening you may remove way more steel than you intend to. They are great sharpening tools but like most tools you need to know about the difference in how to use them compared to other types of stones. This will make the stones perform and last longer and you'll get better results.

Jack

All I use are Diamond for sharpening - I use them when the Sharpmaker won't touch up the edge satisfactorily enough.

I use DMT hones - XX Course, X Course, Course, Fine, X Fine. Makes it cake walk to grind a new bevel with minimal effort.