Spyderco Forums

Posted: **Wed Jun 15, 2011 7:07 am**

Hello guys,

getting more and more intrigued by knifemaking I thought it was time to take you on a little picture-tutorial in making handle-slabs on a mule.
I hope I am not number 13 of the dozen who shows tutorials here. The tutorial is chopped in two parts. Until glueing and finishing the handle.
I would like to hear your comments, pos or neg, in the thread or PM, just let me know. I gives me a chance to improve myself. Sit back, relax and enjoy this tutorial. There is in fact nothing special, everybody can make his own mule. Here we go.

Couples of weeks ago a forumite here asked me if I could make handles on a couple of mules of him. Among it was the 52100. He wanted brown micarta, two stainless corbies, a leather pocketsheath and no lanyardtubing. We made a deal and here we are, our basic-stuff;

Brown micarta, stainless corbies and a fresh Golden made 52100 mule #1 somewhere in a workshop in Germany

First thing I do is to point out the first hole to be drilled in the handleslabs. I use a template to make sure that all of the fulltang is covered in micarta.
Because the front pin is not located in the front hole in the tang make sure the handleslabs cover up those holes in the tang! This first hole can be drilled without the blade. However because the drilling needs to be precise and ultimate-straight you need a drillpress. The diameter of the drill is the diameter of the hole in the tang (and the diameter of the female part of the Corby

Posted: **Wed Jun 15, 2011 7:22 am**

Next step is to drill the second holes in slabs. For this step I simply take the female corby and put it through the tang in the freshly drilled fronthole. Then I drill the second hole straight through the tang in the micarta. Now the two holes are perfectly drilled at the right distance from eachother. If there is a third hole, simply also fill the second with its female corby and drill it. This also counts for the lanyardtube, however I drill this hole slightly larger than the tube. This to prevent a too tight fit and cracking of the handle material. Remember this, the lanyard-hole is close to the edge of the material.

Safetymeasure: note the taped edge of the blade. If the drillpress catches the blade and it will start spinning, you WILL loose fingers. At least tape it in, even better with rubbertape and, if possible, fix the blade in a vise. Since micarta and other handlematerial contains chemicals which can be very poisonous if dusted I use an dustcollector to extract the dust. As soon as I start grinding and drysanding the stuff I wear a respirator.

Posted: **Wed Jun 15, 2011 7:30 am**

[I]Here we are, freshly drilled handle-slabs. After drilling I draw the out line of the tang on the slabs and mark them left and right. In this particular case the part that hits the tang is perfectly flat. Remember, if not the case, to flatten it by sanding it down! The X's remember me not to mess with this side! Next step is determining, with my snakewood :rolleyes: template where the handle-slabs roughly stop.

Posted: **Wed Jun 15, 2011 7:48 am**

Next I remove the excess micarta outside the outlined tang. Every piece of micarta not turned into dust saves belt and clean air. The less poisonous material becomes airborne the better

The following step seems simple but is crucial and very important; the drilling of the counterholes where the corbies sink in the material. Take close attention now.
Step one; Make sure you drill at the RIGHT SIDE. I learned this the hard way. Drilling at the wrong side and you slab is wasted. Now you realize the importance of the X's :D
Step two; drill them DEEP ENOUGH, the female part of the corby must go through the micarta, the tang and ENTERING THE OTHER SLAB. This makes one piece of the tang and the two handleslabs connected by the corby.

Make sure that the female corby does not reach the larger countersink hole of the other slab. CHECK THAT. If the case shorten the corby-parts. Be careful that you don't drill all the way through the micarta. In that case your slab is wasted. Preset the height of your drilltable or keep it in mind

Posted: **Wed Jun 15, 2011 7:51 am**

Here can you see what I mean with drilling the corby at 'the right depth'. A picture says more than a thousand words

Posted: **Wed Jun 15, 2011 7:57 am**

Since we removed the excessmaterial with a hacksaw and roughly drew the ricasso-ends of the slabs we can start making these ends even on the grinder. Using an 80-grit belt (coarse enough :p ) I first grind the ends roughly.

Posted: **Wed Jun 15, 2011 7:59 am**

Then I put them together connecting the holes with the corbies. Now you know why to countersink the corbies before you do this

Roughly even.

Posted: **Wed Jun 15, 2011 8:04 am**

Now I put the slabs together with Corby-screws (with the tang of course). You also understand countersinking the Corbies was the step before you do this :p

Roughly even....

Posted: **Wed Jun 15, 2011 8:10 am**

...perfectly even. The bless of a grindingmachine...

Posted: **Wed Jun 15, 2011 8:14 am**

Finish the ricasso-ends of the slabs perfectly. Once installed on the blade your chance is over. At about 100 grit the texture of the canvasmicarta appears in its beauty. Sanding it up (wet) at 400 grit reveals its true beauty.... I am certain that there is a forumite among you who start shining and smiling now

Posted: **Wed Jun 15, 2011 8:23 am**

Still like this tutorial?

Testfit, before mounting the slabs for eternity.
-slabs flat? check.
-countersinkholes deep enough? check.
-ricasso-ends of slabs rounded correctly? check

proceed....

Posted: **Wed Jun 15, 2011 8:29 am**

Again, pay attention, the next one is crucial. Degrease and sand both the tang and the handle-slabs!
Rough 'em up with 120 grit sandpaper, both horizontal and vertical. This improves the sticking of the glue in the next-step. To degrease the surfaces I use aceton. The aceton removes the sandingdust on the micarta slabs. Remember that non-stainless knives are often covered oil or grease by the factory.

Posted: **Wed Jun 15, 2011 8:42 am**

To glue the handle I use a special slowsetting two component epoxy metalkit (well THAT is a glue :rolleyes: )
It mixes one on one and first I apply it on the slab with the female corbies already in it. I apply as much as possible and try to fill all the holes in the tang with that grey stuff. I also put a little in the thread of the corby-screw.
Next I put the glue on the other slab put it on the tang and make sure the female corby enters the second slab as well, remember....
When every thing is at the right spot I screw in the male corbies. The male penetrate the females and contact the epoxy as well. Now the handles and the corbies are BOTH screwed and glued.....
Glueing is important, especially by non-stainless blades. It keeps moist and oxygen out, preventing rust.

Make sure to turn on the screws from both sides. Because of the thick glue stop turning the screw on one side doesn't mean it won't turn on the other side. When done correctly there is a fair part of the corby sticking out of the micarta.

Now patience comes in and the glue have to set...

END OF PART ONE.....
Tomas

Posted: **Wed Jun 15, 2011 8:51 am**

toomzz wrote:When every thing is at the right spot I screw in the male corbies. The penetrate the females and contact the epoxy as well. Now the handles and the corbies are BOTH screwed and glued.....

Are we still talking about knifemaking here? :eek:

Toomzz,

Thanks for the outstanding tutorial. I figured I could reply at the end of Part I.

hiredgun

Posted: **Wed Jun 15, 2011 9:07 am**

I like this a LOT!

Posted: **Wed Jun 15, 2011 9:09 am**

hiredgun wrote:Are we still talking about knifemaking here? :eek:

Uhh....intention was knifemaking, however I was LOL when I read it back....

:D

Posted: **Wed Jun 15, 2011 9:09 am**

awesome detailing and pictures, thank you Sir.

Posted: **Wed Jun 15, 2011 9:13 am**

Waiting and waiting, the glue is on for four hours now and it doesn´t stick anymore

Posted: **Wed Jun 15, 2011 3:46 pm**

Great post! Thanks for taking the time to write it up!

I've only made one set of Mule handles so far (besides a practice-set out of cheap pine). I used micarta, and I'm pretty happy with the feel of mine, but it doesn't look very fancy. Yours look very nice.

I have another 8 or 10 sets of Mule handles to go, I may get better by the time I finish the last one!

Thanks again for documenting your process.

Posted: **Wed Jun 15, 2011 3:55 pm**

Great information, great pictures. Very well done. Thank you! Mike

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Mule tutorial

Mule tutorial PART ONE