Serrations and Sharpmaker

[enduraguy]

I recently (today) watched the how-to DVD that came with my Sharpmaker. I noticed Sal demonstrating a sharpening technique for serrations that honestly made me cringe. I was always under the impression you sharpened the scallops and points individually, then the tip of the blade, then the "flat" side to remove any bur. Sal shows (on multiple blades) simply sharpening the serrations in a full stroke. Just seems totally counter-intuitive to me. Wouldn't that eventually turn your nice serrated blade into a plain edged knife? Also seems like it would not actually sharpen the scallops. I'm confused.

[rycen]

You did realize that you only sharpen serrations with the point of the stone and not the flats?The point is what allows it to reach each serration. Then you basically just have to remove whatever burr there is on the other side.

[ChapmanPreferred]

I have used the Spyderco Sharpmaker since January 1996. I have used Sal's sharpening method exclusively. It works really well and should be your newest best friend for sharpening serrations. If you use the diamond rods with very fast motion and heavy pressure, you will begin to round off the points of the serrations. If you do as Sal suggests (light pressure and only the white rods but do it often) you will take nearly a lifetime to wear down the serrations to resemble a plain edge. If you only use the flats of the stones, you would certainly convert your PE into a SE.

[enduraguy]

I have used the Spyderco Sharpmaker since January 1996. I have used Sal's sharpening method exclusively. It works really well and should be your newest best friend for sharpening serrations. If you use the diamond rods with very fast motion and heavy pressure, you will begin to round off the points of the serrations. If you do as Sal suggests (light pressure and only the white rods but do it often) you will take nearly a lifetime to wear down the serrations to resemble a plain edge. If you only use the flats of the stones, you would certainly convert your PE into a SE.

Ah, ok. I just saw him doing that and heard the serrations popping over the stone and it just didn't seem right. Glad I asked for clarification, and thanks.

[DMgangl]

Ive used the points of the fine and ultra fine to sharpen my SE knives. I do a 3:1 stroke. Three on the ground edge 1 on the back to remove the bur. Lather, rinse, and repeat for about 40 strokes. My SE can still push cut paper easily, and have the sharp points of the Japanese SE.

DM

[gac]

How do you take off the burr?

[ReGZ_93]

How do you take off the burr?

You alternate strokes 3 to five on the serrated side and 1 plain side. You then repeat the sequence several times.

The single stroke on the back side of the serration removes the burr formed on the serrated side.

[Mr Blonde]

I had some problems sharpening serrations way back when I first got the Sharpmaker. I'd recommend using a cheaper serrated knife to 'practice' with. And 'light pressure' is key, I didn't quite believe it at first but light pressure is all that's needed to let the stones do their work.

[JD Spydo]

I recently (today) watched the how-to DVD that came with my Sharpmaker. I noticed Sal demonstrating a sharpening technique for serrations that honestly made me cringe. I was always under the impression you sharpened the scallops and points individually.

I'm with your way of thinking "Enduraguy" I do admit that a guy can do a reasonable job touching up dulled serrations with the 204 Sharpmaker>> But I still maintain that the ultimate best way to sharpen a Spyder-edge is with Spyderco's best hidden secret sharpening tool>> and that being the 701 Profile set. It takes a bit more time to get the job done but the effort is well worth it. Also you can keep your serrations looking almost as perfect as they came from the factory. I haven't been able to land a Spyderco Goldenstone yet but I hear it has some good potential for sharpening Spyder-edges as well.

[yablanowitz]

Several years ago I picked up a couple of well-worn serrated Police Models on eBay. The first gen was particularly bad, from the back you could barely tell it was SE. Using the SharpMaker and later the Byrd Duckfoot (I ran out of patience) with full strokes, I restored the serrations, points and all. It sounds all wrong, but the scallops get sharp first and the points last. I alternate heel to toe and toe to heel strokes, about 5 of each on the scallop side and then one of each on the back sidewith the main grind flat to the rod. The trick is getting the scallops parallel to the rod and holding that handle alignment throughout each stroke.

Good to see you JD. I picked up a factory second Golden stone a couple of years ago, and it works well in conjunction with the Duckfoot.

[Bill1170]

Several years ago I picked up a couple of well-worn serrated Police Models on eBay. ... I restored the serrations, points and all. It sounds all wrong, but the scallops get sharp first and the points last. ....

It makes sense to me. The points on a SE get most of the wear, while the scallops are protected... by the points! Therefore, the points need the most work to get them sharp again after long neglect.