WANTED...Your best Sharpmaker tip

[paladin]

Been collecting spyderco's many years...got 2 sharpmakers, but I never can achieve a "shaving sharp" edge :mad: . I broke down and started this thread when I could not even cut a harbor freight coupon out of a Sunday circular with my Kiwi without tearing...and that was after a 30+ minute progressive sharpmaker session of M/F/UF steps :mad: !!! I've tried the sharpie tip, bubble level atop knife spine, and most other things listed here. I've had patience, and have tried for YEARS. Just can't seem to achieve the "zen" I read about in your threads here. I trust that the think tank that IS Spyderco Forums will pull me out of this rut...if each master will submit just a single tip...perhaps something not yet covered in past threads (because I've read them all). Be gentle, its my first time posting...Ron

[Donut]

The only trick I think you need is to hold the blade straight up and down and use the 40 degree slots.

There is a small amount of horizontal pressure needed, try changing that a little bit heavier/lighter to see how much it makes a difference.

The Kiwi is VG-10 so if you do like 25 on each side with the Corner/Flat of the Medium/Fine/Ultra Fine it should get you in good shape.

Good luck!

[Pinetreebbs]

Don't wait too long to use the Sharpmaker.

[justinl]

clean the rods regularly. I allowed my stones to get dirty and after cleaning with comet and a green 3M scrubby it made a world of difference.

[psychophipps]

Placing your thumb on the spine makes keeping the knife closer to vertical much easier.

[MtnMan]

Everything already said, and:
Don't be in a hurry and don't run the tip of your blade off the side of the ceramic stick at the end of the pass (blunts the point).

[SQSAR]

Purchase the Diamond rods:

Start your initial attempts to sharpen a blade by establishing a bevel with the diamond rods. These rods remove material much quicker so you can establish the 30 degree bevel all the way to the edge, and then (after taking said back bevel all the way to the UF rods) you are setting pretty to make your micro-bevel at 40 degrees.

[unit]

If you use the sharpie and verify that you are on the edge and you still are not getting sharp perhaps you are using too much pressure?

Hard to say.

Another way to verify that you are raching the edge is to not alternate strokes on left and right rods. Rather stay on the left (or right) rod until you feel a burr. Then switch to the other side and again raise the burr. Only after you have raised the burr on both sides do you begin alternating sides and only after graduating to alternating sides do you switch to finer rods.

[Simsmac]

There are some great responses already, most of which are key to making a proper edge. Here's a couple suggestions of mine:

Make sure you apply a slight, even pressure while sharpening
Don't let your knives get dull; sharpen them when it feels like they are loosing that bite when you thumb the edge. It sounds like your knives might be dull already though, so the diamond rods are probably a good idea to try.

Also, it may take more than the recommended 20 strokes to get the knife sharp, especially if it's dull.

[Monkeywrangler]

When in doubt, watch Sal's video! And folks would probably benefit from watching it once a year just to remind themselves not to get sloppy.

[yablanowitz]

#1) Check your SharpMaker rods for chips. Even small chips in the corners can wreck the edge you are working to achieve.

#2) Lighten up. Most of the problems I've seen have been people using too much pressure. Let the abrasives do the work at their own pace. If you think you are pressing hard enough, you are at least. If you know you are pressing hard enough, you're using way too much. Excess pressure will flex the rods in the base, changing the angle and wearing out the holes and bend the thin steel of the edge you are trying to establish.

#3) Someone once suggested propping a mirror up behind the SM so you can see the reflection of the blade, making it easier to see if you have the blade held vertical throughout each stroke. I thought it was a good idea, so I repeat it often.

[c.joe]

Don't wait too long to use the Sharpmaker.

+1. The sharpmaker is to make an already sharp edge sharper and not for creating a sharp edge. (I kinda worded that poorly but I hope you understand)

Get diamond rods like some have already suggested if you want to work the edge a bit faster. You can also sharpen from bottom to top and use minimal force.

[Tsujigiri]

The main thing is making sure that the knife stays straight. Also, make sure you aren't sharpening one side more than the other, because you'll form a burr, and thus a wire edge.

[Dr. Snubnose]

Forget about sharpening...when the knife goes dull just buy another :p .....Just a Joke!!!....All great suggestions thus far I will only add that you take your time and do not let the I'm not doing it good enough frustration get the best of you....Steady as she goes...lighter pressure and you might want to practice and experiment with some of the techniques mentioned in this thread on a cheap knife first, gathering skills, once you are popping hairs off your arm, try doing some sharpening with the different types of steel Spyderco knives are famous for.....Good Luck...Doc :D

[cckw]

get some cheap knives from the kitchen to learn on. result show faster.

[paladin]

Although this was my first thread, I feel like you are all old friends from my many years of lurking on the boards...and thanks for such honest help! :) First off, my blades are not excessively dull, most of my cutting tasks are light duty. I fully subscribe to Unit's "SharpKEEPER" philosophy that many of you likewise reflect in your posts. I'm the bloke whose blade is sharper BEFORE he uses the sharpmaker ( if that is humanly possible ). :eek: Apologies to Mr. Glesser for my failures with his truly ingenious device which should be foolproof...kinda like childproof lids, eh? Donut, Yabs, and everyone else who cited the pressure issue I feel are on the right track to help me...would you guys say side pressure should be equally light as the downward/drawing pressure? Right now I feel like I'm practically letting the blade's own gravity draw it downward (really light and slow). I also know my blades don't have a shoulder problem...even so I still have tried the 30 then 40 degree method in the DVD. Still amazed at how fast Sal uses the rods! Also, I may be too obsessive in trying to maintain vertical alignment...is it really THAT important? How anyone can maintain perfect vert. with the honing speed Sal uses is beyond my current skill set! Well, back to the rods with your suggestions, thanks...RON :spyder:

[yablanowitz]

Sideways pressure? No. You really don't need to press sideways at all. The angle of the rods takes care of that for you. As far as maintaining vertical alignment goes, letting that vary will result in a convex edge. Maybe not visibly so, but the bevel will be slightly rounded rather than flat. That will make it feel less sharp, give it a little less "bite", although it will be a little stronger and last a bit longer as well. I've been sharpening freehand since before Sal invented the SharpMaker, and my edges are all a little convex. That doesn't keep them from shaving.

[Pinetreebbs]

Forget about sharpening...when the knife goes dull just buy another :p .....Just a Joke!!!.....Good Luck...Doc :D

I like this idea! :D

[Donut]

I think that there needs to be a certain amount of pressure between the blade and the rods. If you watch the video you can see it when Sal is sharpening the kitchen knives, they are bending some.

I think that as long as you are consistent and not changing the angle of your hand, you should be fine.

[Mr Blonde]

Is there any way you could post a video of you trying to sharpen a knife on your Sharpmaker? Perhaps that could generate some useful tips?

I've only had the problem you describe on a few ZDP189 blades, and that was mainly because the factory bevel didn't match up with the angles on my Sharpmaker. I found that in those cases, it helps to use the Diamond stones that kind of 'generate' a completely new bevel that gets very sharp.