Michael Janich wrote:
...
Let's all take a deep breath and play nice.
Stay safe,
Mike
But I failed "Playing nice with others" in Kindergarten and went on to some success in a law enforcement career--where the customer is always wrong :D .
Seriously though, for those interested, I will add my thoughts regarding the "hardware" (blade) side of the matter. First of all, choice in hardware, if made intelligently, should depend to a large extent on the "software" (training) that you will be using. Legal issues as to blade length, type of knife allowed for carry, and other issues also apply. Body type, personal preferences, availability of the knife in question in your area, budgetary considerations, and other things also become part of the equation.
For
me, with my training and experience, body mechanics, body type, and particular situation it works out something like this:
1. If I absolutely knew that I would be in a knife-on-knife confrontation, I would be carrying my Cold Steel Laredo Bowie, Spyderco Rock Salt, or other large fixed blade that I have practiced with and which fits my style of usage and abilities. I have, in fact, been known to carry a very large knife on my person from time to time, though usually due to the writing of a magazine article about that particular style of blade than as a "primary defense tool." I do not have to worry about legalities and style of knife issues at present. Since I am issued and carry an automatic weapon and am a federal law enforcement officer, no one is really going to be concerned overly much with what blade I am carrying concealed.
2. Just as, "in the real world," a lot of large handguns get left at home and smaller firearms are carried, most people do not carry the "monster" size blades. I often carry knives with blades of four inches or less. My normal attire for work is either suit and tie or full tactical gear. If the former, blades are usually not overly large, while, in the latter case, usually at least one blade of 5.5 inches or more in length is present.
3. I believe in using both the edge and the point of the knife. Sometimes a thrust and "cutting out" is the best "defang the snake" motion. In a life and death struggle, I will hit my opponent with what is available, when it is available, and try to target all of my strikes well. In a moving, twisting, sweating, bleeding situation, this is not easy, but becomes less difficult the more you do it for real and the more you practice and spar. As for blade shape, since I use the methodologies of Albo Kali Silat, which includes wrist articulation during many cuts, I get very good results with a curved or upswept blade. I also do well with other shapes. I have been satisfied with the performance of the Spyderco Kris, Emerson (American Tanto) folders, Spyderco leaf shaped blades, and various clip point or Bowie styles from Boker, Cold Steel, Spyderco, and others. To me, hawkbills are great utility knives. Except for karambits, or those hawkbills that have such a gentle curve that some would say they are not a true hawkbill at all, I do not advocate them at all for defensive use. I can utilize a highly curved hawkbill effectively, of course, but would normally use such a knife primarily in a reverse grip, edge out methodology in order to bring the point into alignment with the target without excessive flexion of the wrist. In this grip, I basically have a knife with the limitations of a karambit (range, etc.) but with none of the advantages (ring for retention, extensions, etc.).
4. For me, the knife is not even close to my primary mechanism of defense. Daily, I carry a lot of gear, including a handgun and extra magazines. I have been assaulted with impact weapons, hands and feet, knives and firearms. For private citizens and law enforcement alike, I have to say that there is a much higher probability that you will need to use empty hand techniques, in situations that do not warrant the use of deadly force (using a knife or firearm), or in deadly force situations where you often must use empty hand techniques when caught "behind the curve" and you must defend from an attack while either gaining distance, deploying your defensive tool(s), counterattacking your opponent, or doing all or most of the above. There are times when a knife is preferrable to a firearm, but my primary defensive tool is my training, followed by my handgun, then other equipment. Offensively, as when making a planned arrest, entry to a building (dynamic or slow methodical), and the like is a different story. At that point a long gun (in my case MP-5 or M-4) is primary, and all kinds of other tools are available.
5. Folders are nice for ease of carry. I have a lot of folders, like many of them very much, and would not feel ill equipped if they were all I had. However,
in general a fixed blade is stronger and is faster to deploy. I carry a fixed blade at almost all times. For what it is worth, my constant companion in "suit and tie" mode has been an Emerson Fixed Blade Karambit for the last few years.
I encourage everyone who has a knife that they may use for self-defense to do some actual cutting and/or thrusting (depending on your preferred methodology) in meat and various other mediums. Personally, since meat can get a bit expensive and messy, I have been doing a bit of cutting into martial arts matting materials, as shown here in a video
http://www.albokalisilat.org/khukuri.html
and here in some still photos from a magazine article
http://www.albokalisilat.org/PDF/large_ ... rticle.pdf
Doing
your own testing, with the way that
you move with a blade is imperative if you are going to find out what works best for you. Use expert opinions as a guideline, train hard, practice with your tools, and make your own intelligent selection.
