Can someone point me to a faq or post that explains the differences between and trade-offs associated with the various grinds?
Thanks! ;-)
What's the lowdown on grinds? ...
I don't have links but do an Internet search for "hollow grind blade". It's usually in conjunction with the other grinds where people explain and show pics.
Basically it comes down to the specific application and purpose compromising tip and edge thickness and what your cutting. A FFG blade will typicially have a thinner tip and gradual ramp so they slice well through thick/dense materials. Hollow-grinds have less material behind the edge as the material is scalloped out so they sharpen up easier and work better for shallow cuts while retaining tip strength (albeit sometimes less penetration).
Of course per application they perform totally different. There is a big difference between a Manix2 and a Centofante 3 due to blade shape and thickness.
There are other less common grinds and adaptations of the ones above too. Scandi's have a more robust edge, chisels can get scary sharp and are cheaper to make but don't cut perfectly symmetrical, flat-saber (like the older frn Delica/Endura) has tip thickness like a HG but a little more spine and edge strength as the blade stock is a bit thicker.
I'm still learning and it's a ton to take in. There seems to be quite a few opinions and a but of dogma too. This doesn't even start to dissect blade shapes...guh. Lol
Basically it comes down to the specific application and purpose compromising tip and edge thickness and what your cutting. A FFG blade will typicially have a thinner tip and gradual ramp so they slice well through thick/dense materials. Hollow-grinds have less material behind the edge as the material is scalloped out so they sharpen up easier and work better for shallow cuts while retaining tip strength (albeit sometimes less penetration).
Of course per application they perform totally different. There is a big difference between a Manix2 and a Centofante 3 due to blade shape and thickness.
There are other less common grinds and adaptations of the ones above too. Scandi's have a more robust edge, chisels can get scary sharp and are cheaper to make but don't cut perfectly symmetrical, flat-saber (like the older frn Delica/Endura) has tip thickness like a HG but a little more spine and edge strength as the blade stock is a bit thicker.
I'm still learning and it's a ton to take in. There seems to be quite a few opinions and a but of dogma too. This doesn't even start to dissect blade shapes...guh. Lol
Good info. I lifted the pertainent section and made it into an image for you. The pros and cons are somewhat obvious if you understand that a blade has to separate material...depending on the material being forced to separate, different grinds work better.JLS wrote:The Spyderco print catalogs generally have a good explanation and cross-section views in the "Edge-u-cation" section in the back. The downloadable version off the website should have the same.
Now think about long term maintenance of the blade. As you sharpen the blade and progressively remove material over the years, you will work up the grind and the edge becomes "thicker"...again different grinds yield different results. Any ill effects of thickening can be countered by re-grinding, but some do not want the hassle.
Hope some of this helps. Hopefully I have done a good job of making people think and understand that there is no "best" grind.
An interesting note regarding hollow grinds. Not all are the same. The larger the diameter of the wheel used, the closer they start to approximate a saber grind.
If you consider the differences in push cutting a 4 inch thick sausage vs push cutting a strip of bacon you can perhaps understand how a hollow grind would do well with the bacon, but because the sausage is thicker a full flat would gently separate the material at the lowest possible angle necessary to clear the spine of the knife.
It really depends on how you use the knife!
Thanks,
Ken (my real name)
...learning something new all the time.
Ken (my real name)
...learning something new all the time.
You might also check out the links at Off The Map Outfitters (http://www.backyardbushman.com) -- he has info under the links "grind dynamics", "favourite grinds", "grind finishes" and "knife grinds explained." I found the info there really helpful.
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psychophipps
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This is correct. It generally takes a while, or in the case of my grandfather who uses a grinding wheel to "sharpen" his knives...a short period, but a well-worn knife with many sharpenings will actively show a reduction in the height of the blade in comparison to the original grind of the blade. You will usually note this difference where the blade runs into the tang.jlamb wrote:Maybe a dumb question, but over time does the knife actually shrink from spine to edge since you are are removing metal every time you sharpen? Just curious if anyone has a pic handy of an old knife where this has happened.
Not a dumb question at all. Yes the knife goes on a diet every time you sharpen it...I tried to address this topic a bit in the second paragraph above.jlamb wrote:Maybe a dumb question, but over time does the knife actually shrink from spine to edge since you are are removing metal every time you sharpen. Just curious if anyone has a pic handy of an old knife where this has happened?
This concept can be an interesting mental journey if you consider how grinds and their performance will evolve over time/use. The great thing about steel is that you can always re-grind...this is also the bad thing in that you can not put material back on once it is ground off.
Many will only contemplate out of box performance, and not grind "evolution"/"degradation" (from sharpening). This is probably fitting around here where so many of us buy knives at a rate nearly a billion times faster than any knife will evolve/degrade.
Thanks,
Ken (my real name)
...learning something new all the time.
Ken (my real name)
...learning something new all the time.
