scary sharp question
- texcaliber
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scary sharp question
:confused: I am wondering if there is a reason I can not for the life of me make the Endura 4 I own scary sharp. If there are any opinions or knowledge that the forum members would like to help me out with I would appreciate it very much.
The knife is a great EDC but with the lack of edge I am finding myself question the defensive role and my abilities when it come to sharpening. There are only a few knifes I own which I have not sharpened very well.(due to sentimental value) This is the reason I am left wondering if anyone else has come across this situation before.
I am afraid that the only cure(s) will be to either:
-send back
-Professional custom reprofile/sharpening
-different steel(this is my first experience with VG-10)
-buy a more expensive knife
-live with it
Thank you for your time,
tex
The knife is a great EDC but with the lack of edge I am finding myself question the defensive role and my abilities when it come to sharpening. There are only a few knifes I own which I have not sharpened very well.(due to sentimental value) This is the reason I am left wondering if anyone else has come across this situation before.
I am afraid that the only cure(s) will be to either:
-send back
-Professional custom reprofile/sharpening
-different steel(this is my first experience with VG-10)
-buy a more expensive knife
-live with it
Thank you for your time,
tex
"All I need in life is Love and a 45......and now a Spyderco."
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I sharpen freehand, but I know that if you do not absolutely keep the angle constant, it won't be sharp. Start coarse, then finer, and strop on leather with polishing compound on it. I also always steel it to make sure the edge is straight. Hope this helps - just keep the angle constantly the same.
- best wishes, Jazz.
- best wishes, Jazz.
- BuffaloBill
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i imagine that after sharpening a knife a lot, you may need to have to send it back to have spyderco re-grind it.
eventually you wear down enough material where your edge is not as thin as it was when you originally had the knife sharp.
thats what i eventually did with my work knife. after sharpening on the ceramic stones so many times it seems like i couldnt get it sharp anymore, so i sent it back to spyderco and now its much easier to touch up.
eventually you wear down enough material where your edge is not as thin as it was when you originally had the knife sharp.
thats what i eventually did with my work knife. after sharpening on the ceramic stones so many times it seems like i couldnt get it sharp anymore, so i sent it back to spyderco and now its much easier to touch up.
I would start out with a sharpie pen and mark the edge to make sure you're hitting it right.
Truthfully though, you said your technique isn't consistantly even. VG10 takes a screaming edge so I'd stop going freehand. It's a somewhat more advanced technique. Seems to me those who freehand are the folks who either think it's cooler to say or those who have perfected the art. Sadly only one group has screaming sharp blades.
Another thought us to find a local shop to sharpen it for $5-10. It's not Spyderco but you get the knife back quick. Goodluck!
Truthfully though, you said your technique isn't consistantly even. VG10 takes a screaming edge so I'd stop going freehand. It's a somewhat more advanced technique. Seems to me those who freehand are the folks who either think it's cooler to say or those who have perfected the art. Sadly only one group has screaming sharp blades.
Another thought us to find a local shop to sharpen it for $5-10. It's not Spyderco but you get the knife back quick. Goodluck!
- The Deacon
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+1 on the Sharpie trick. It will tell you whether you're actually hitting the edge or not.Blerv wrote:I would start out with a sharpie pen and mark the edge to make sure you're hitting it right.
Truthfully though, you said your technique isn't consistantly even. VG10 takes a screaming edge so I'd stop going freehand. It's a somewhat more advanced technique. Seems to me those who freehand are the folks who either think it's cooler to say or those who have perfected the art. Sadly only one group has screaming sharp blades.
Another thought us to find a local shop to sharpen it for $5-10. It's not Spyderco but you get the knife back quick. Goodluck!
Paul
My Personal Website ---- Beginners Guide to Spyderco Collecting ---- Spydiewiki
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My Personal Website ---- Beginners Guide to Spyderco Collecting ---- Spydiewiki
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WTC # 1458 - 1504 - 1508 - Never Forget, Never Forgive!
- texcaliber
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I have used a Spyderco Sharpmaker and a LS Lansky so far.Hector Castro wrote:What are you using to sharpen it? What process are you using?
The Sharpmaker has the two standard stones. I do not have the diamond or extra fine.
I use either newspaper or cardboard for the stropping material.
Sorry i did not include this.
"All I need in life is Love and a 45......and now a Spyderco."
- texcaliber
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BuffaloBill wrote:i imagine that after sharpening a knife a lot, you may need to have to send it back to have spyderco re-grind it.
eventually you wear down enough material where your edge is not as thin as it was when you originally had the knife sharp.
thats what i eventually did with my work knife. after sharpening on the ceramic stones so many times it seems like i couldnt get it sharp anymore, so i sent it back to spyderco and now its much easier to touch up.
First time sharpening with minimal usage cutting paper and letters only.
"All I need in life is Love and a 45......and now a Spyderco."
- texcaliber
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Always a reasonable option with wonderful resultstexcaliber wrote: I am afraid that the only cure(s) will be to either:
-send back
Also a reasonable option that should have good resultstexcaliber wrote:-Professional custom reprofile/sharpening
This is not a great option in my opinion, your VG-10 is probably not the problem here. VG-10 is very capable of achieving very fine edges so long as there are no defects.texcaliber wrote:-different steel(this is my first experience with VG-10)
Also not a great option (IMO)...though a more expensive knife will likely come sharp, I see no reason why VG-10 would pose any challenges in sharpening that some more expensive knife will solve.texcaliber wrote:-buy a more expensive knife
This has got to be the worst option posted! I would never recommend "living with" a dull knife. It can be fixed, and no offense intended but, the fix is probably something in your sharpening technique. You will likely find lots of great advice here on how to improve your craft in terms of sharpening.texcaliber wrote:-live with it
Spyderco makes some fabulous tools for putting/restoring an edge on a knife. When you master the ability to use one of more of them, you will undoubtedly develop a deeper passion for knives and their functionality. One great way to do that is to seek advice here. Another, is to find a willing craftsman that will demonstrate some of these techniques.
Perhaps you are not sharpening the EDGE of the blade? Have you tried the 40 degree setting? Are you using very light pressure on the rods? VG-10 sharpens pretty easily and too much pressure is perhaps the #1 problem I see for those that say they are having trouble. Stropping on newsprint and cardboard may also be the problem. I would forgo these and simply work with the fine rods for finishing. You will not likely be able to whittle a free hanging hair, but you should be able to shave paper, pop hair, and whittle a supported hair when done....that is pretty scary sharp my most people's standards.
Thanks,
Ken (my real name)
...learning something new all the time.
Ken (my real name)
...learning something new all the time.
- white cloud
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- texcaliber
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thank you unit. No offense taken.
I will take the humble route and enlist the advice and/or help of a friend whom is more experienced with Spyderco's to get the edge right before I choose another route.
As for pass sharping success with Benchmade , SOG , CRKT, Buck/Oldtimer and Customs have been acceptable with the two standard stones of the Sharpmaker. I have had an Emerson which could only be really sharp with the LS Lansky or my local custom blade maker/sharpener. For some reason I have a really tough time with chisel grinds on the Sharpmaker.
Also any more info would be welcomed. Sorry if I am wasting time, but dull carry knives leave a bad taste in my mouth. I would like a laser like edge never mind the razor.
Thanks again,
tex
I will take the humble route and enlist the advice and/or help of a friend whom is more experienced with Spyderco's to get the edge right before I choose another route.
As for pass sharping success with Benchmade , SOG , CRKT, Buck/Oldtimer and Customs have been acceptable with the two standard stones of the Sharpmaker. I have had an Emerson which could only be really sharp with the LS Lansky or my local custom blade maker/sharpener. For some reason I have a really tough time with chisel grinds on the Sharpmaker.
Also any more info would be welcomed. Sorry if I am wasting time, but dull carry knives leave a bad taste in my mouth. I would like a laser like edge never mind the razor.
Thanks again,
tex
"All I need in life is Love and a 45......and now a Spyderco."
Cool. I wish you were around central Missouri, I love sharpening and would be happy to try and help. I am confident it is something fairly simple and sooner or later you will have that "ah ha" moment and figure out what is stumping you.texcaliber wrote:thank you unit. No offense taken.
Some knives have have grind angles that are not what you expect. You may have one with a wider angleon one side than the other and you are not getting the edge on both sides.
Have you tried the sharpie? Do you use a magnifying lens as part of your process? It has got to be something simple that you will eventually discover. Just do NOT give up. Take a break for a day or so but do not give up!
Thanks,
Ken (my real name)
...learning something new all the time.
Ken (my real name)
...learning something new all the time.
- ChapmanPreferred
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Lots of great advice listed above. The chance to view your edge under magnification is an outstanding opportunity to learn. You will see the changes in the scratch pattern left by the abrasives in the Spyderco system even going from corner to flat side of the same abrasive rod. The Sharpie method can be used in conjunction with magnification to aid in identifying which scratch pattern you are making (if there is more than one).
I have had very good service from this product for magnification:
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx ... 3456,43351
If you need to speed up the sharpening process, you can wrap the sharpmaker rods with wet/dry sandpaper to make a more aggressive edge reprofiling effect.
Let us know how you make out, and what worked for you!
Cheers,
Doug
I have had very good service from this product for magnification:
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx ... 3456,43351
If you need to speed up the sharpening process, you can wrap the sharpmaker rods with wet/dry sandpaper to make a more aggressive edge reprofiling effect.
Let us know how you make out, and what worked for you!
Cheers,
Doug
SFO Alumni/Authorized Spyderco Dealer (Startup)
Work EDC List
FRP: Nisjin Cricket PE, Manbug PE, Dragonfly PE
FLP: SS Cricket SE, byrd Flatbyrd CE
BRP: CF Military S90V
BLP: Forum S110V Native
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
Work EDC List
FRP: Nisjin Cricket PE, Manbug PE, Dragonfly PE
FLP: SS Cricket SE, byrd Flatbyrd CE
BRP: CF Military S90V
BLP: Forum S110V Native
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
- araneae
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Have you used both set ups on the knife already? What order? If you had only cut paper with the knife, it was probably not particularly dull to begin with. A good stropping or couple passes on the white rods should set the edge back to shaving sharp.
If you have not tried the Sharpy trick, do so. It will show you what is happening at the edge. Mark the edge, take 2 swipes on the sharpmaker and take a look at where you are hitting. A good close up photo could help us in diagnosing the issue. You may find that you have a slightly uneven edge. You can deal with it, you just need to know what you're dealing with. If you have the lansky you can re-bevel with pretty accurate results and its faster than the Sharpmaker if you don't have diamonds. The Sharpmaker can be used to quickly maintain the edge.
Hope this helps.
If you have not tried the Sharpy trick, do so. It will show you what is happening at the edge. Mark the edge, take 2 swipes on the sharpmaker and take a look at where you are hitting. A good close up photo could help us in diagnosing the issue. You may find that you have a slightly uneven edge. You can deal with it, you just need to know what you're dealing with. If you have the lansky you can re-bevel with pretty accurate results and its faster than the Sharpmaker if you don't have diamonds. The Sharpmaker can be used to quickly maintain the edge.
Hope this helps.
So many knives, so few pockets... :)
-Nick
Last in: N5 Magnacut
The "Spirit" of the design does not come through unless used. -Sal
-Nick
Last in: N5 Magnacut
The "Spirit" of the design does not come through unless used. -Sal
- texcaliber
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I have enlisted the help of a friend to help with the issue. He has the diamond triangle for the Sharpmaker and said the factory sent it out with two different angles which he could see with his eyes. I called B.S. on it and then was given a jewelers rouge and told what I was looking at. So I was impressed and humbled (again) and was talked into leaving my Endura in his possession over-night. I will be keeping everyone informed and after my blade is returned I will take some pics and posts them. The fact that I do not have any pics of the before edge bothers me for lack of comparison. Live and learn I guess.
Thank you,
tex
Thank you,
tex
"All I need in life is Love and a 45......and now a Spyderco."
LOL, I knew it! Glad you are on your way to a better edge. Once the edges match, and hopefully are set to something below 40 deg inclusive, you will be able to match/exceed your expectations with your Sharpmaker with ease.texcaliber wrote:......... said the factory sent it out with two different angles which he could see with his eyes.
Ken
Thanks,
Ken (my real name)
...learning something new all the time.
Ken (my real name)
...learning something new all the time.
- ChapmanPreferred
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Learning can be humbling, but it is worth the effort and kick to the pride. :) Well done. Doug
SFO Alumni/Authorized Spyderco Dealer (Startup)
Work EDC List
FRP: Nisjin Cricket PE, Manbug PE, Dragonfly PE
FLP: SS Cricket SE, byrd Flatbyrd CE
BRP: CF Military S90V
BLP: Forum S110V Native
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
Work EDC List
FRP: Nisjin Cricket PE, Manbug PE, Dragonfly PE
FLP: SS Cricket SE, byrd Flatbyrd CE
BRP: CF Military S90V
BLP: Forum S110V Native
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
- texcaliber
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Not good, I just got off the phone and my friend sounds a little disheartened and asking me a bunch of questions about "the steel being stainless?" and how "this is not going to ever be a scary sharp knife!" .
Well I am seriously bummed out over this. I will be leaving for work and meeting to pick up the knife. I will provide more info, ASAP, along with pics hopefully.
tex
Well I am seriously bummed out over this. I will be leaving for work and meeting to pick up the knife. I will provide more info, ASAP, along with pics hopefully.
tex
"All I need in life is Love and a 45......and now a Spyderco."