Spyderco Forums

I just did a breakdown of my Manix 2 sprint run. I wanted to see just how it all went together and re-lube it. First off let me say that the torx screws on this knife are just robust and they are deep enough to get a real good purchase on. Also, the screws were locktite'd on mine and I assume most are so be very careful to use the right size and not strip the heads. Sooooo here we go.......



Now.....LETS DISSECT THIS ARACHNID!

2 blue slabs
2 skeletonized proud liners
1 FFG leaf blade
1 lock-housing backspacer
1 caged ball bearing lock with polyurethane cage and spring
1 non adjustable pivot with dual screws
2 phosphor-bronze bushings
4 backspacer screws
1 polished clip with 3 screws



Check out the blade/lock interface and note the manufacturers date (November 2009)



The ball bearing only drops in one way, from the top. And that's the same way it goes in the knife.


Pivot


Bushings


Tapered backspacer screws

"Smurfskin"


couldn't get the lanyard hole/pillar off of one side. Its tough and I didn't want to force it.


And lastly that strong clip.



Thanks for watching and remember, "Edge-ucation is key"

Thanks for the effort mate.

Ive actually never seen a Spyderco apart like that ever.

Sort of complex yet easy.

I never knew smurf skin was so thick! :)

^Yup. Rest in peace "Grippy Smurf"

Thank you very much, now I don't need to take mine apart anymore. :D

Nice pics. I wonder if Spyderco has started stamping the date on any other models?

Very nice. some nice pics and good info in there.

thanks!

I thought the date stamp was present on all Golden models, for a few years at least.

The date stamp is a great idea. If they have a QC issue they can more easily track it and let their customers know so they can take care of it quickly and efficiently.

PureSeventyNine wrote:I just did a breakdown of my Manix 2 sprint run. ..........

I just finished putting mine back together the my blade was stamped 12/09.

Thanks so much for going through the effort. What a terrific present and future resource.

Wow the post on the Ball Lock is plastic.

I wonder what long term durablity issues this lock may or may not have.

I would interested for someone from Spyderco to give us some background on the material used and expected user life.

I am all for plastic, however this is a part I would expect to be, well "metal."

Has always been a nagging question about the Caged Ball Lock for me.

markg wrote:Wow the post on the Ball Lock is plastic.

I wonder what long term durablity issues this lock may or may not have.

I would interested for someone from Spyderco to give us some background on the material used and expected user life.

I am all for plastic, however this is a part I would expect to be, well "metal."

Has always been a nagging question about the Caged Ball Lock for me.

First I'm not an engineer. Second I too took my Manix apart last night. Third the part you say is plastic is not plastic but polymer not unlike for example what Glock uses to make their hand guns which I'm very familiar with and have no concerns about durability and longevity. Fourth this "plastic" component rides in a channel and only moves in one plane (for and aft) that's inline with the shaft and has no up or down or side to side play.

This is the component that the lock release rides in:



In this photo of the polymer lock you can see the channel that the above piece rides in.



So I don't see any reliability issues with the shaft that the spring rides on.

Hope this helps.

P.S.N.

now that you have done that, maybe you can answer my question. I have 1 that has a good amount of play when closed. Is there a way that you can tell by looking at the parts how to fix it. Maybe another washer? It came with 2 on each side as it is. Let me know brother. It will give me a better idea how to tackle it before taking it apart. I'd rather not send it back.

proguide wrote:P.S.N.

now that you have done that, maybe you can answer my question. I have 1 that has a good amount of play when closed. Is there a way that you can tell by looking at the parts how to fix it. Maybe another washer? It came with 2 on each side as it is. Let me know brother. It will give me a better idea how to tackle it before taking it apart. I'd rather not send it back.

Are you sure it came with two washers on each side? I mean, it isn't a reflection on the liners, right? Did you buy it new or was it pre-owned?

Thanks for the dressdown, the only thing I am missing on mine are the skeletonized liners, I have the regular M2 in 154CM with full steel ones.

Persistence also comes with 2 thin washers on each side, you can't really tell unless you took the knife apart and trying to press and push the "fat washer" and wah lah, it is actually 2 washers stack to each other, I suppose it gives an even smoother operation

I thought about showing the P'kal broken down this way but ended up doing the work I planned during the spare time I had. It is of course very similar looking to this with it's similar construction. While it was apart I polished the backspacer/lock channel, liners, extra polish to all moving contact points and dyed the ball cage black while it was out.

This is a knife that could have just been dunked without taking it apart if dyeing was all I was going to do since it already has black G10 scales but for a non-black colored (ie Blue Manix 2 sprint) handle I would obviously take it apart to change the ball cage color.

It has been carried almost every day since I have owned it so I decided to give it this minor face lift. It is even smoother to open with the thumbhole than before and no issues were created as far as reliability with the wave opening process. I enjoy the knife a little bit more now and have no problem that it is now under my warrantee and not Spyderco's.

LorenzoL wrote:Are you sure it came with two washers on each side? I mean, it isn't a reflection on the liners, right? Did you buy it new or was it pre-owned?

Brand new and yes....2 washers on each side. I have a few spydies like this. The only problem with this model is that you cant adjust for lateral blade play if need be, like the one I have.