question i've been meaning to ask: the dvd instructs you to sharpen both sides... but they SE knives from the factory only seem to be done on one side.
what gives?
sharpening spdie edge the way it says on the DVD....
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oneformula
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You can sharpen both sides if you want. To get a sharper but maybe slightly less durable edge, do three passes on the beveled side and then one on the other side to knock off the burr. Repeat until you get your desired sharpness. Or, you can sharpen it by alternating sides, one pass for one pass to get a good sharp edge that will last a bit longer than the other method, but sacrifice a little bit of sharpness. Hope that helps.
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The CoPilot
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I believe the Sharpmaker instructions recommend a 3:1 stroke ratio (three strokes on the side the teeth are cut into and 1 stroke on the other side to remove the burr). Repeat as necessary until your serrated blade is sharp.
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C09 CoPilots My Specialty
Integrity is Being Good Even if No One is WatchingTM
Looking for: C04 Executive plain edge, C09 CoPilot plain edge with brass liners and a G-2 marked blade
My DVD did not work, but based on the written instructions my opinion is as follows. The Sharpmaker was developed to sharpen all types of knives including kitchen knives. It was also developed before some of todays better steels. So the instructions were not developed specifically for Spyderco serrations Do you need to sharpen the back side? Not really. Will it be quicker and easier if you do? Yes. The knife will not cut quite as well after multiple/many/repeated sharpenings on both sides but the serrations will be less prone to damage if you sharpen both sides. Individual serrations rarely all need the same level of attention. Working on only the ones that need attention works much better for me. I only knock the burs off of the back (as a last step with the white rods) at a couple of degrees more than flush with the back. Keeping the front at the original angle isn't really an easy option long term with harder steels without diamonds.
Don't leave earth without some teeth. I carry a knife to open a can of worms.
Lots of theories when it comes to sharpening serrations....
1. 3:1 - Gives a sharper but less durable edge (I've even used a ratio as high as 6:1 when sharpening serrated edges). Keeps a more acute micro-bevel on the front of the scallops resulting in more perceived sharpness.
2. 1:1 - Gives a less sharp but more durable edge, i.e. a "utility" edge. The theory behind the alternating strokes is the keep the actual cutting edge as even as possible thus making it more durable.
3. 0:1 - Make a few passes on the backside of the serrations only; useful for touching-up (I've never had much success with this technique but there have been others who swear it works)
Want the sharpest edge possible short of sending it back to the factory? Sharpen at 3:1 then load a leather boot strap up with your favorite stropping compound and make a few passes with this through each individual scallop.
Then there are those that swear by the 701 Profiles for sharpening serrations.
1. 3:1 - Gives a sharper but less durable edge (I've even used a ratio as high as 6:1 when sharpening serrated edges). Keeps a more acute micro-bevel on the front of the scallops resulting in more perceived sharpness.
2. 1:1 - Gives a less sharp but more durable edge, i.e. a "utility" edge. The theory behind the alternating strokes is the keep the actual cutting edge as even as possible thus making it more durable.
3. 0:1 - Make a few passes on the backside of the serrations only; useful for touching-up (I've never had much success with this technique but there have been others who swear it works)
Want the sharpest edge possible short of sending it back to the factory? Sharpen at 3:1 then load a leather boot strap up with your favorite stropping compound and make a few passes with this through each individual scallop.
Then there are those that swear by the 701 Profiles for sharpening serrations.
Jason