Bushcraft Questions

[Manix Guy 2]

I am really excited to see the Bushcraft in the new catalog , I have a few questions . Where will this knife be made ? Would someone please give our members Scandi grind 101 lessons ? Will 0 -1 steel be the blade ? Will there be a lefty leather sheath option ? Finally any time line for release ? This is a FB that I have hoped to see made by Spyderco for quite a long time , and hope to see more of this style and more in the years to come . Regards MG2

[sal]

Made iin Taiwan. Leather sheath designed by Chris Claycomb (Bushcraft UK),
who also designed the knife.

Sharpening lessons will have to come from the Bushcraft UK guys.

sal

[Manix Guy 2]

Thank you for the reply . I did some research about the Scandi grind and makes sense . Sharpening does not seem to be an issue and from I have read easier than some in the field . Look forward for the release of this knife . Regards MG2

[The Mastiff]

I'd like to say thanks Sal for bucking trends and going with the tool steel despite it's difficulties in production like the ones you had to put up with getting the excellent Mules in 52100 and CPM M4 made and sold.

O-1 is one of my all time favorites and I consider this a must have even having to sell a few knives to get it.

Thanks again Sal and the Spyderco team, Joe

[NoFair]

Made iin Taiwan. Leather sheath designed by Chris Claycomb (Bushcraft UK),
who also designed the knife.

Sharpening lessons will have to come from the Bushcraft UK guys.

sal

Sounds great Sal.

We Norwegians will get along without the sharpening lessons from UK though :D

Sverre

[Manix Guy 2]

I am wondering if the Scandi grind will be progressive from the the back of the blade to the front ? This is traditionallay done to give a stronger tip with knives from that type of market . The scandi grind is of great interest to me and hope others will share their expience . Also glad to see a Randall type steel used with this new FB , I think many will be surprised with this steel . MG2

[Ted]

Thank you for the reply . I did some research about the Scandi grind and makes sense . Sharpening does not seem to be an issue and from I have read easier than some in the field . Look forward for the release of this knife . Regards MG2

I still don't understand why people think or say it's easy to sharpen a full-scandi in the field. :confused: IMHO, it's much easier to touch up a secondary bevel on a full flat grind, or strop a convex grind on a leather belt. For a full-scandi, you need perfectly flat stones, preferably a bit large also. One mistake on a full-scandi edge while sharpening, or a serious nick in the edge from fieldwork, and a lot of metal would need to be removed to get it full scandi again. Also, keeping a scandi flat on a stone while passing through the curved section of the blade is not easy. For what it's worth, I have several knives of both types, and this is my experience so far.

I'm really looking forward to the Bushcraft, but mine will developed a secondary bevel quite soon. :)

Ted

[Manix Guy 2]

Hi Ted , I respect your opinion . My impression was from an article on Hella knives in Aug. issue of Knives Illustrated by Michael S. Black. The information gathered there has given me the impression with the type of steel to be used that someone as illierate as myself can sharpen a Scandi with a little practice in the field . I appreciate your wisdom and experience on this matter . Regards MG2

[cdf]

Many Sandi's do have secondary micro bevels , especially if they are used for ruffhousing like dressing big game . Quys who strop their Scandi's are doing a de facto micro convex .

Chris

[Ted]

Hi Ted , I respect your opinion . My impression was from an article on Hella knives in Aug. issue of Knives Illustrated by Michael S. Black. The information gathered there has given me the impression with the type of steel to be used that someone as illierate as myself can sharpen a Scandi with a little practice in the field . I appreciate your wisdom and experience on this matter . Regards MG2

Hi MG2 - would that article be available on-line by any chance? To me, I still find the "scandi is easy to sharpen in the field" a Mythbuster type of myth, and would love to read some good material on it to find it confirmed, plausible or busted. ;-)

I have a Koster bushcraft (from bladeforums) with a full scandi. I attempted to polish the entire edge on a ultra-fine Spyderco stone, and that showed to me how hard it is to keep the edge really flat on the stone since it directly shows the polished and unpolished parts, especially in the belly section. I find Mora's even more difficult due to the thinner blade. But, It might be that I'm totally unskilled of course :D

[Manix Guy 2]

Ted if you can not find it please PM me and I will help . MG2

[Hookpunch]

I have a Mora with Scandinavian grind, only sharpened it once but got a good edge on it.

Does anyone know why O-1 was chosen as the steel and not VG-10 or S30V which seem to be the steel of choice for a lot of survival experts (Doug Ritter is a fan of S30V for eg.)

[Joe Talmadge]

Carbon and alloy steels, and particulary O-1, are very heavily favored among the Bushcraft crowd. Bushcrafters don't just follow any survival expert; they are their own breed with their own creed.

[The Mastiff]

Whatever their reason, I'll accept it. O-1 is an excellent steel, takes a great edge without a lot of work. It's fairly tough, but not in the same category as 3V, S7, Infi, etc.

It's a great all around steel and will probably surprise people with it's ease of sharpening compared to the high carbide stainless steels they're used to.

It does have a bit of a rusting problem and you need to keep on top of it.

To familiarize myself with sharpening scandi knives I took a L-6 steel knife and reground it into a scandi grind, and proceeded to learn the ins and outs of sharpening it. It's really quite easy and won't take much adaptation. Joe