progrip question

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RIOT
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progrip question

#1

Post by RIOT »

i thought i had two of the same knives, last night i noticed one didnt have the cut out in the lock and the one on top has VG10 and the bottom is G-2 steel

what is the difference in the two ? any time frames you know about ?
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The Deacon
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#2

Post by The Deacon »

GIN-1 steel with G-2 markings was used (roughly) between 92-95, VG-10 came into use around 2003. In between, there may have been some marked GIN-1 and there were definitely some marked AUS-8. Boye dent may have come into use on the Pro-Grip at the same time as VG-10 steel, or shortly before or after. In a nutshell, what you have are two knives from about the oppsite ends of the Pro Grip's life cycle.
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#3

Post by tomahawk23 »

Big difference in the amount of SE on there too... thats strange.
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#4

Post by RIOT »

The Deacon wrote:GIN-1 steel with G-2 markings was used (roughly) between 92-95, VG-10 came into use around 2003. In between, there may have been some marked GIN-1 and there were definitely some marked AUS-8. Boye dent may have come into use on the Pro-Grip at the same time as VG-10 steel, or shortly before or after. In a nutshell, what you have are two knives from about the oppsite ends of the Pro Grip's life cycle.
thank you Deacon, its the evolution pro grip set lol, i actually carried the VG-10 one for about a year then recently found that G2 NIB for $ 54.00
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#5

Post by amen74 »

Great Spydies RIOT. Nice ergos and blade shape on those two. Big difference on the serrations.
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#6

Post by Cuccos19 »

I have found an old G-2 bladed Pro-Grip at one of Hungary's auction pages. It cost aroud 40$ to 45$ (depending on Dollar vs. Forint rate). Look at the pics, please. Do you think is it good for that price? It looks good, and the seller says that it's unused. I know that there is some kraton rubber under the clip, but unfortunatelly the photos don't show it.
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#7

Post by 224477 »

I have the bottom one in G-2, was bought in 1997 IIRC. I cant tell anything about the VG10 one.
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#8

Post by The Deacon »

Cuccos19 wrote:I have found an old G-2 bladed Pro-Grip at one of Hungary's auction pages. It cost aroud 40$ to 45$ (depending on Dollar vs. Forint rate). Look at the pics, please. Do you think is it good for that price? It looks good, and the seller says that it's unused. I know that there is some kraton rubber under the clip, but unfortunatelly the photos don't show it.
That's probably about what one would sell for here, so I'd say it's an excellent price from a seller in Europe. No Kraton under the clip on an FRN ProGrip, at least not on my AUS-8 one.
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#9

Post by vampyrewolf »

The boye dent came out in 2002 I believe, though it took a couple years for the dent to be on everything.
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Rubber problem, or I hope doesn't....

#10

Post by Cuccos19 »

Guys, I have a question what maybe looks petty at first, but it’s important for me. I know that when the rubber getting old, its structure changes. It becomes greasy. That was the main problem with my old and beloved Ericsson R310s rugged mobile (the one with the “shark fin antenna”). I haven’t got any experience with the so called Kraton, I only know it is a kind rubber. And when I used to make aircraft models – plastic ones, not the flying ones – I read somewhere, that veteran modelers put some aluminium foil between the rubber tire and the plastic wheel hub to avoid the unwanted reaction between the two material. Because they will “kill” each other within some years.

What about the Kraton?? It's on the plastic (FRN) handle. Or the Kraton is another kind of rubber, and the FRN is different plastic, too? I’m really curious because I haven’t see too much :spyder: models with Kraton inlays nowadays.

Thank you!
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#11

Post by vampyrewolf »

The inlay on my spur is degrading, but I wear it on my neck. Once it hits body temp I can pretty much rub the kraton off with my thumb.
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#12

Post by The Deacon »

IMHO, Kraton is not a very durable material. It wears badly, pieces break off, and it can be loosened by exposure to scalding hot water. Not sure about any negative interactions with plastic, but then again most plastic models are styrene, which is quite different from nylon. Think about the only FRN/Kraton ones left are the Morans and Remote Release 2 and the stuff on the Morans is smooth, so nowhere near as prone to damage.
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#13

Post by Cuccos19 »

Thanks, Guys!

Although the auction outdated, the seller will put it back - this one and a Tim Wenger Junior are there for weeks or rather months.

Anyway the Wenger Jr. started at 35000HUF (175$ if we count 200HUF for 1$) and the "Buy it now" price was 37000HUF (185$) on 8 aug. 2009. Now it was only 18000HUF (90$) and 19000HUF (95$) for Buy it now price, today. Well-well, nice knife, but what makes a little depression... :( Poor guy!

Fortunatelly for my account, Tim Wenger style knives are not for my taste. Rather the Police, Military, Harpy, Civilian.

But back to the Pro-Grip, do you think if the kraton has gone, I can replace it with some nicer inlays, like blue shell as on the C66 Frank Centofante Vesuvius? I have some nice stones and a red coral "ball", and I maybe can get some blue shell somewhere.

Anyway I don't really want to carry it, I just want some knife which is REALLY from those old days. I'm as old as the :spyder: Co. so I can switch every older models into my old days, and it's a kind of nostalgy... :o Sorry, I'm maybe too sentimental...
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#14

Post by vampyrewolf »

I tried years ago to form an inlay for the pro-ven I have here with CF... gave up on the long process.

Might be easier with a nice hardwood or coral.
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#15

Post by The Deacon »

Not easy, by any means, but it should be easier than doing the same thing to a SS/Kraton Stretch. Somewhat more intricate outline, but no center "landing pad" to worry about and only one side to do. Would depend a lot on your skill set. I know I couldn't do a good enough job of it to be happy with the outcome, but that doesn't mean you couldn't. As Patrick suggested, wood is probably the easiest. Biggest "issue" is the FRN handle, inlay pretty much has to be finished before it's put in place, and industrial strength double sided tape is probably a safer bet than glue, no chance of excess oozing out onto the FRN.
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#16

Post by The CoPilot »

Awhile back I gave my Dad one of my favorite Spyderco models: the C32 Spur from the 2004 Sprint Run (one with the gray Kraton insert). He carried it for about a year and eventually the Kraton just kind of "melted" away. After that happened, I borrowed it back and made a new insert from it using a very thinly sliced piece of black walnut wood. The toughest part of the process was just getting the insert shaped right. Used a Dremel tool for most of it. Lots and lots of careful grinding on the insert and then check-fitting over and over until I got it right. The end result turned out nice, but was a lot of work. I secured it to the stainless handle using two-ton epoxy and finished the walnut with a hand-rubbed boiled linseed oil finish. He's been carrying it for about 6-8 months now and it's holding up great. Wish I'd have taken a photos of it before I gave it back....
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#17

Post by Cuccos19 »

Thanks Guys! I know that I'm not good enough in handicraft to make it, but one of my ex-colleague and friend is very skilled in many aspect. He makes tattoos, as well he made his tattooing machine's frame from stainless steel, he also made some flyable model aircraft from balsa wood, etc. So he is very good in handicraft. He also made a "David Boye dent" into my Cold Steel 5inch Vaquero's backlock, to make it safety. He made heck of a good job, now it works beautifully! I think he can make it. Or I know another guy who is my ex-biology teachers husband, he is a very good knifemaker in Hungary. And as far as I know, he met with Sal personally at the IWA in Germany! Lucky man! :rolleyes:
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#18

Post by Sam Vimes »

Cuccos19 wrote:Tim Wenger style knives are not for my taste. Rather the Police, Military, Harpy, Civilian.

But back to the Pro-Grip, do you think if the kraton has gone, I can replace it with some nicer inlays, like blue shell as on the C66 Frank Centofante Vesuvius? I have some nice stones and a red coral "ball", and I maybe can get some blue shell somewhere.
While I appreciate that the Wegner Jnr has a different lock to the Pro-Grip is there really a vast difference in style between them? :confused:
I'd pass on the Pro-Grip in favour of the Wegner any day myself although I consider them to be from a very similar style of knife.
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#19

Post by Cuccos19 »

Sam Vimes wrote:While I appreciate that the Wegner Jnr has a different lock to the Pro-Grip is there really a vast difference in style between them? :confused:
I'd pass on the Pro-Grip in favour of the Wegner any day myself although I consider them to be from a very similar style of knife.
Well, yes. They don't have that spiky pointed tip like Endura3/Delica3 or the Military. Pro-Grip and Tim Wenger designed knives have blunter tip, it can be good for skinnig. And they are much less sensitive, brittle. Anyway the Ocelot is very similar to the C48 and C49 Wengers, in overall design. Like an upgraded Wenger with 4way clip and backlock. Although I know that all were designed by the same person, but I would be glad to see some variety. Bob Lum and Bob Terzuola also made some collaboration models, but all of them were different.
Rusty blades are awful.
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