Mule Team handle hardware.
- jaislandboy
- Member
- Posts: 6150
- Joined: Sun Jan 30, 2005 1:00 pm
- Location: tennessee
Thanks everyone for the comments. Always nice to hear :D
I get the Orange G-10 from http://www.sheffieldsupply.com/
although there are other sources for orange G-10
Check out the picture forum a little later tonight... I'm going to post my personal mule and start a mule picture thread thats even more Anso like.
gac wrote:Where do you get the Orange material from? Do you have any handles to sell?
I get the Orange G-10 from http://www.sheffieldsupply.com/
although there are other sources for orange G-10
I love Jens work. He has some of the coolest texture have ever seen. Can wait till the Rebel I have on order from him gets here. :) I as well cant wait to see the new Rock Lobster done with Spyderco.Well done!! Love the Jens Anso G-10 texturing!
Check out the picture forum a little later tonight... I'm going to post my personal mule and start a mule picture thread thats even more Anso like.
Brad Southard
Southard Knives
"Whatever you do, work at it with all your heart, as working for the Lord, not for men," Colossians 3:23
Southard Knives
"Whatever you do, work at it with all your heart, as working for the Lord, not for men," Colossians 3:23
Thanks everyone for the comments. Always nice to hear :D
gac
I get the Orange G-10 from http://www.sheffieldsupply.com/
although there are other sources for orange G-10.
And yes I do sell handles, but as per forum rules am not going to tak about that much here. If you have questions PM or email me.
JspyEDC
Check out the picture forum a little later tonight... I'm going to post my personal mule and start a mule picture thread thats even more Anso like
gac
Where do you get the Orange material from? Do you have any handles to sell?
I get the Orange G-10 from http://www.sheffieldsupply.com/
although there are other sources for orange G-10.
And yes I do sell handles, but as per forum rules am not going to tak about that much here. If you have questions PM or email me.
JspyEDC
I love Jens work. He has some of the coolest texture have ever seen. Can wait till the Rebel I have on order from him gets here. :) I as well cant wait to see the new Rock Lobster done with Spyderco.Well done!! Love the Jens Anso G-10 texturing!
Check out the picture forum a little later tonight... I'm going to post my personal mule and start a mule picture thread thats even more Anso like
Brad Southard
Southard Knives
"Whatever you do, work at it with all your heart, as working for the Lord, not for men," Colossians 3:23
Southard Knives
"Whatever you do, work at it with all your heart, as working for the Lord, not for men," Colossians 3:23
-
- Member
- Posts: 735
- Joined: Fri Sep 24, 2004 10:33 am
- Location: Folsom, CA, USA, Earth USA
I was thinking about filling 2 or 3 holes with some JB weld and the drilling them out in a more friendly diameter so I can use some chicago screws.
aka marauder2002 www.marcymotorsport.com www.focuschallenge.com
- MedicineMan
- Member
- Posts: 7
- Joined: Sat Dec 08, 2007 8:50 pm
This is a repost as I placed it in the G-10 scale thread earlier by accident but:
I'm no expert at this but a couple of thoughts occur to me.
The holes in the mule handle measure .164 inches which roughly makes 4.12 mm. Short of machining a custom sleeve to hold the 1/8 inch barrel pivot (as Tricod so eloquently performed), metric 4 mm OD brass tubing which runs about .99 cents for a foot at the hobby store should work. The ID of the brass tubing is 3.1 mm or .123 inches. If we cut a 3/16 in length of this tubing and then make a thin saw cut lengthwise, the brass sleeve should expand over the .125 (1/8th in.) barrel pivot and fit snugly within the 4.12 mm handle hole. One other thought about putting removable scales on carbon blades and the rust that can form under them is that -although epoxy is great to seal out moisture, most are not going to be compatible with changing out the scales. I am planning to use "no residue aerosol brake cleaner" on the blade to degrease then apply a non-hardening loctite ?purple ?blue to seal out moisture/inhibit rust and be relatively easy to remove the scales for swap out. This works well under scope mounts on rifle barrels, etc.. with which I have a little more practice. Just some thoughts at present and only theory currently as I am profiling some maroon linen micarta for attatchment.
Sorry in advance for the repetition - this is my now 2nd post on this forum.
I'm no expert at this but a couple of thoughts occur to me.
The holes in the mule handle measure .164 inches which roughly makes 4.12 mm. Short of machining a custom sleeve to hold the 1/8 inch barrel pivot (as Tricod so eloquently performed), metric 4 mm OD brass tubing which runs about .99 cents for a foot at the hobby store should work. The ID of the brass tubing is 3.1 mm or .123 inches. If we cut a 3/16 in length of this tubing and then make a thin saw cut lengthwise, the brass sleeve should expand over the .125 (1/8th in.) barrel pivot and fit snugly within the 4.12 mm handle hole. One other thought about putting removable scales on carbon blades and the rust that can form under them is that -although epoxy is great to seal out moisture, most are not going to be compatible with changing out the scales. I am planning to use "no residue aerosol brake cleaner" on the blade to degrease then apply a non-hardening loctite ?purple ?blue to seal out moisture/inhibit rust and be relatively easy to remove the scales for swap out. This works well under scope mounts on rifle barrels, etc.. with which I have a little more practice. Just some thoughts at present and only theory currently as I am profiling some maroon linen micarta for attatchment.
Sorry in advance for the repetition - this is my now 2nd post on this forum.
- SeanH
- Member
- Posts: 366
- Joined: Wed May 31, 2006 5:17 pm
- Location: Northern Colorado, USA, Earth
- Contact:
Welcome MedicineMan!
Great ideas! I like the split tube. I'll need to try it.
I was thinking of a rubber liner between the scales and the tang to prevent moisture from getting in...
Great ideas! I like the split tube. I'll need to try it.
I was thinking of a rubber liner between the scales and the tang to prevent moisture from getting in...
>>The Spyderco Forum Cookbook ... and its thread<<
Think about what you believe, but don't believe everything you think.
"We feel that to "charge as much as the market will bear" is "to bite the hand that feeds you"."
Sal Glesser
Think about what you believe, but don't believe everything you think.
"We feel that to "charge as much as the market will bear" is "to bite the hand that feeds you"."
Sal Glesser
Well first off Welcome to the forum.
Sounds like a good idea. That idea had crossed my mind but I shruged it off necause I though it would be a pain in the butt. However I'm sure it would be less of a pain in the butt than the Sleeves. I'll give it a try tomorrow and see what happens.
Thanks for the idea.
Sounds like a good idea. That idea had crossed my mind but I shruged it off necause I though it would be a pain in the butt. However I'm sure it would be less of a pain in the butt than the Sleeves. I'll give it a try tomorrow and see what happens.
Thanks for the idea.
MedicineMan wrote:This is a repost as I placed it in the G-10 scale thread earlier by accident but:
I'm no expert at this but a couple of thoughts occur to me.
The holes in the mule handle measure .164 inches which roughly makes 4.12 mm. Short of machining a custom sleeve to hold the 1/8 inch barrel pivot (as Tricod so eloquently performed), metric 4 mm OD brass tubing which runs about .99 cents for a foot at the hobby store should work. The ID of the brass tubing is 3.1 mm or .123 inches. If we cut a 3/16 in length of this tubing and then make a thin saw cut lengthwise, the brass sleeve should expand over the .125 (1/8th in.) barrel pivot and fit snugly within the 4.12 mm handle hole. One other thought about putting removable scales on carbon blades and the rust that can form under them is that -although epoxy is great to seal out moisture, most are not going to be compatible with changing out the scales. I am planning to use "no residue aerosol brake cleaner" on the blade to degrease then apply a non-hardening loctite ?purple ?blue to seal out moisture/inhibit rust and be relatively easy to remove the scales for swap out. This works well under scope mounts on rifle barrels, etc.. with which I have a little more practice. Just some thoughts at present and only theory currently as I am profiling some maroon linen micarta for attatchment.
Sorry in advance for the repetition - this is my now 2nd post on this forum.
Brad Southard
Southard Knives
"Whatever you do, work at it with all your heart, as working for the Lord, not for men," Colossians 3:23
Southard Knives
"Whatever you do, work at it with all your heart, as working for the Lord, not for men," Colossians 3:23
- SeanH
- Member
- Posts: 366
- Joined: Wed May 31, 2006 5:17 pm
- Location: Northern Colorado, USA, Earth
- Contact:
I may have found a solution. I took my mule to my local Ace hardware store and found the following stainless steel hardware:
[ATTACH]10178[/ATTACH]
The threaded coupling nuts are too long and don't quite fit in the large holes. My plan is to put the long bolts in and, using them as handles spin the coupling nut against my grinder until they just fit. Then I'll cut them down to size. As small as I can and still have enough threads left for a solid connection.
I also found a stainless steel tube that exactly fits the lanyard hole in the tang. My plan for that is to cut it to size after the scales are done and glue it to one scale only. That should keep it in place but allow for easy transfer to the next mule.
[ATTACH]10178[/ATTACH]
The threaded coupling nuts are too long and don't quite fit in the large holes. My plan is to put the long bolts in and, using them as handles spin the coupling nut against my grinder until they just fit. Then I'll cut them down to size. As small as I can and still have enough threads left for a solid connection.
I also found a stainless steel tube that exactly fits the lanyard hole in the tang. My plan for that is to cut it to size after the scales are done and glue it to one scale only. That should keep it in place but allow for easy transfer to the next mule.
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- mule1.jpg (74.66 KiB) Viewed 1383 times
>>The Spyderco Forum Cookbook ... and its thread<<
Think about what you believe, but don't believe everything you think.
"We feel that to "charge as much as the market will bear" is "to bite the hand that feeds you"."
Sal Glesser
Think about what you believe, but don't believe everything you think.
"We feel that to "charge as much as the market will bear" is "to bite the hand that feeds you"."
Sal Glesser
- GeorgeMaggos
- Member
- Posts: 714
- Joined: Mon Jun 19, 2006 8:39 am
- Location: Wildwood IL
- Contact:
Sal,
can you look at your completed mule team knife & let us know what kind of fastners were used is it a threaded barrel or a thru screw into a nut or some other method of removeable reuseable attachment? Can it be found easily at a local hardware store or home depot?
I would like to find an inexpensible way to mount some handles on the mule were your screws custom made for your knife?
~George
can you look at your completed mule team knife & let us know what kind of fastners were used is it a threaded barrel or a thru screw into a nut or some other method of removeable reuseable attachment? Can it be found easily at a local hardware store or home depot?
I would like to find an inexpensible way to mount some handles on the mule were your screws custom made for your knife?
~George
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~~~~~~~~~~
"The test of courage comes when we are in the minority.
The test of tolerance comes when we are in the majority. "[/CENTER]
[CENTER][SIGPIC][/SIGPIC][/CENTER]
[CENTER]Even though you can't see Him, GOD has always been there for you <><[/CENTER]
~~~~~~~~~~
"The test of courage comes when we are in the minority.
The test of tolerance comes when we are in the majority. "[/CENTER]
[CENTER][SIGPIC][/SIGPIC][/CENTER]
[CENTER]Even though you can't see Him, GOD has always been there for you <><[/CENTER]